A Champagne, A sweetie and 8 Burgs.

Had a very long, leisurely lunch with Anthony Hall and a few mates on Saturday afternoon. As usual the cork gods took their share by way of a corked 99 Faiveley Les St-Georges and an oxidised 1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne and a 1988 Roulot Meursault ‘Perrieres’ had no pulse, even after a long ‘Audouzing’.

1996 Jacquesson Avize: I have had a few oxidized botts of this but this particular bott was showing well. There are some nutty aldehydic things mixing I up with baker’s yeast, white peach and mineral notes. It is linear and powerful in the mouth with decent precision, creamy mousse and a persistent finish.

2009 Raveneau Chablis ‘Valmur’: as you draw in a breath of this wine it’s like inhaling Spring with it’s clean air feel punctuated with floral blossom scents. It has a sprig of mint and plenty of oyster shell to the aroma as well. In the mouth you get typical Valmur line and there’s the usual Raveneau pulpiness. It is layered and downright sexy possessing very good cut for the vintage.

2009 Hubert Lamy St-Aubin Derriere chez Edouard-Haut Densite: Certainly held its own next to some serious white burgs. Quite juvenile and unevolved, laden with chalk and citrus but with real line and density. I love the presence and balance to this wine and it is one of the very best Cote de Beaune whites that I have drunk from 2009.

2001 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: You’re greeted by a whiff of smoke on the aroma along with white flowers, toast, white peach and something exotic. Its rich and voluminous with great drive and strict, minerally line. It finishes with great cut and leaves a wonderful footprint of fruit and geological matter.

2005 Coche-Dury Meursault ‘Perrieres’: Huge smoky, sappy lift on the nose. This is a wine that is immense yet balanced. It is built like a very good red wine, with a huge amount of dry extract, power and muscle. Orchard fruits stain the palate then a torrent of minerals flay across the tongue leaving a trail of chalk dust. It has quite superb length of flavour and should live for decades.

2004 Domaine Leroy Nuits-St-Georges: A positive showing of a controversial wine. Plenty of smoke, beef stock, soy and sap to the aroma along with just a hint of grated ginger and something herbal. Rich and textured in the mouth with a lacy feel and good meaty intensity. Quite generous and forward and enjoyed by most at the table.

1983 Tollot-Beaut Chorey-Les-Beaune: More than just a curio, quite a delicious drink. There’s a suggestion of ripeness and plenty of hoisin and decaying leaves. It is sweet and vinous in the mouth and still possesses a little crisp acidity to clean up the finish.

2005 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin: A wine of exquisite balance and possesses the depth and complexity of a good 1er Cru. The fruits are of a dark persuasion and are laced with florals. It has a hint of meat and earth just below the surface and it finishes with chewy tannins. Plenty left in the tank for further development but drinking particularly well today.

2008 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux: Quite simply the best young DRC Echezeaux to have passed my lips. This is a wine that delights with perfumes and sensual textures. There’s an engaging scent of fresh roses, juniper berry, aniseed and red currants. It is a vinous tapestry woven from silk and flowers. There’s a touch of meatiness and the whole package is immaculately balanced. No crime in drinking one now and will be on my shortlist of one of the wines of the year

2007 Kracher Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Number 9: Real intensity of candied pineapple and spiced pear fruits along with rosewater perfume but this is ridiculously sweet, there would not be enough acid at a grateful dead concert to be able to counter the sugar in this sickly beverage. Sure its concentrated, sure it has length but I just don’t want to drink it.

Cheers
Jeremy

Wow! That is a good way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Thanks, as usual, for posting notes, Jeremy. Was the Jacquesson the grand cru? We opened a magnum of the '96 GC a few weeks ago apropos my wife’s birthday and enjoyed it very much. I thought perhaps it was well along the plateau of its development ‘curve,’ though.

We also have opened a couple of 02 Lamy Derriere chez Edouard rouges in recent years - the last about a year ago. Lamy’s reds can really age, these wines were nowhere near mature. Nice to read about one of his whites from the same vineyard.

I had the DRC Echézeaux 2008 by the cask : excellent !
And imagine, that was maybe the weakest wine in the following panel : GE, RSV, Richebourg, La Tâche, Romanée-Conti.
A great vintage !

January 2008, visiting the domain : a great Coche-Dury Meursault Perrières 2005.

Jeremy,

Thanks for the notes on the Raveneau and the Rousseau, the latter of which I managed to acquire last year. It seems like it was money well spent. As for the Valmur, I would expect the vintage to mitigate the somewhat stern character of this wine to some extent. I won’t get mine until the end of the year, but it’s nice to see my suspicions confirmed. I was rather surprised to see the lukewarm Burghound reviews, I must say.

Yes Ian, the Avize is a Grand Cru vineyard. I bought some of the Lamy 09 rouge and it is indeed a very good drink also.

Laurent, I can only imagine how good the likes of the RSV and La Tache are from 2008.

Mike, it’s certainly not one of my favourite vintages of Raveneau Valmur but is an outstanding wine none the less.

Best Regards
Jeremy

Hi Jeremy, nice notes.

Re the Kracher; low acidity has always been the achilles heel of the Kracher TBA’s for me. I have had some I really enjoyed but put against a good german TBA riesling with decent acidity there is no comparison I reckon.

Brodie

I bought! Just blown away by DRC '08.

Posted from CellarTracker

Hi Jeremy,

Had dinner with Anthony last night, he was very positive in his praise of the '08 DRC indeed, so it sounds like the '08 DRC’s might be very good then…

(and, btw, Anthony drank an awful lot of Gevrey as well last night…).

Nice line-up. Thanks for the notes.

Paul,
I heard you had a 2008 Domaine Leflaive Monty as well, looking forward to those notes!
Best Regards
Jeremy

Jeremy:

At what age do you think the sugar in this wine will recede enough to make it as balanced a bottle as possible? I have only one in my cellar.

Thanks,

Nowell

Nowell,

I think in about 2096 the last of the sugar will gently fade away, finally bringing the wine into balance with its structural elements.

Best Regards
Jeremy

Marvelous.