Xmas dinner wines with a smoked pheasant, sunchoke-pear-quince gratin and spaghetti squash w/ dates, pistachio and Moroccan spicing:
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1982 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura Rouge - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (12/25/2009)
Barely any color, it seemed. Let it is breathe about 15 minutes. Really pure and precise with fruit passé, leaves and a fougere dry-down. Very much element of light in structure (not the same as lacking structure) with lots of facets. Bright acids, tart cherries (almost cranberry) as harmonies. Really pretty and interesting but not over the threshold of great.
Held for a bit in a nice balance, but then moved to a different level where those elements of light vanished and the acids took center stage. Not bad, but not balanced and far less enjoyable. A shame since I planned this as a dinner wine. Held at that plane for some time and would have been OK except for the memories of the earlier moment. Seems like it is better to share a bottle among a lot of people than enjoy over a dinner table. Triste.
Elena disliked the Bourdy completely even at the peak, so I opened a second bottle.
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2001 Henri Perrot-Minot Morey St. Denis En la Rue de Vergy - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis (12/25/2009)
Nice nose with much promise - feints of oak, leaves, dried fruit, blood meal. Same lack of delivery on the palate as in '06 - flattened and coarse with stewed elements. Did deliver some enjoyment on the fruit and with food, but no where near what it should. Disappointing. Picked up tinned elements and pinched texture over time. Based on this (and some un-CT-noted samples) that P-M’s wines are not for the long run - this did not taste shut-down, but like it was devolving.
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