2007 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (12/12/2009)
Opened and Slow O’d for 24 hrs. A somewhat strange start to this wine, as I couldn’t help but notice the unmistakable scent of fresh sweat; nothing nasty mind you, just something I didn’t expect right out of the gate and sometimes get from a very high acid NZ sauvignon blanc. No matter, this soon dissipated and was replaced by all the good things one would expect from such a bottle: orchard fruits, flowers, minerals, all present and accounted for, but I suspect a few years away from aromatic fireworks. Texturally, this was simply an amazing semblance of and power and mass without weight, you feel the sheer complexity and layers, but when you swish it around in your mouth, its almost that of air! If you took a break away from the primary gushes of fruit, you could detect a teriffic backbone of acidity that will no doubt be a more prominent player down the road. Cherry, gravel and nutskins on the very long finish. I’m fairly new player to to German Riesling, but damn it, superb recent bottles of Donnhoff and Prum (and others) have me on full vino alert the way a lion would be stalking a gazelle in the Savanna, I’m dialed. (94 pts.)
1998 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (12/12/2009)
Popped and poured. One of the better CdP’s noses I’ve come across in quite in some time, offering a beyond generous medley of chocolate, raspberries coulis Provencal herbs (the usually suspects) and a touch of CdP funk. But oh that chocolate was something to behold, nothing cheap or obvious, but more of a luxurious essence that fit like a glass slipper before the big Ball. As with my previous bottle a couple of years ago, quite a different tune on the palate, as rather masculine wood tannins really make you respect there authority with grippy pine and resin notes. Really focused and long finish. I think I’ll side with the camp that has this at or very close to maturity, as I just don’t see the fruit ever coming into complete balance with the sheer force of the tannins. So if you have a few of these, go for it, it was a hell of a good ride. (93 pts.)
2006 Cayuse Syrah Armada Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley (12/12/2009)
Splash decanted, 15 minutes. This was my first Armada from bottle as opposed to samples at the Release Weekend and it certainly was a gamer. I must admit that I almost found it just a little to intense for me right out of the gate, as the usual (and quite unique) Cayuse traits of funk, wet animal fur, cabbage, ash etc were indeed fascinating, but a little hard to translate into palate enjoyment. 1 hr later and a few swirls in the glass, and I’m in love again. The descriptors above were still present, but added elements of dark berries and wood spice, maybe a slice of smoked bacon added balance and complexity, and all for the better. This was another exhibit that leads me to believe that Cayuse Syrahs really don’t hit their sweet spot until 6 to 10 years from the vintage date, at least for my taste. Till then, I’ll just drink Jared’s stash…. (95 pts.)
2007 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah In the Rocks - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley (12/12/2009)
Certainly the comparisons to Cayuse are appropriate, and certainly they are part of the same family tree, this is clearly a Syrah of a different branch. As young Cayuse is primal and uncompromising, this wine (and its sibling the Contender) are simply ravaging beauty from the get go. Ripe fruit yes, a presence of new oak sure, but this carries a terrific sleekness and class (maybe the inclusion of Viognier?) that make it at once a combined hedonistic as well as intellectual experience. If you haven’t yet tried a Reynvaan Syrah, and enjoy Betz or Cayuse, you really owe it to your self to get a bottle or two. If they don’t work out, not to worry as I’ll gladly take them off your hands! (93 pts.)