2023 German Vintage Report

Not to me.

Interesting. I like them, and feel they offer excellent value across the middle of their range, especially.

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The high end ones are insanely expensive and need forever to open.

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I wasn’t commenting on the quality. I’ve only tried a few so can’t. But I’ve always seen them more highly respected in Germany than elsewhere.

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The entry-level „Forst“ is indeed quite good and only around 25€. On the other hand „Kirchenstück“ GC and „Pechstein“ GC are far too expensive

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BW prices from cellar door has rose every year. 2022 Forst was already 29 eur and is probably 30 or over when 2023 will be released. On the other hand Forst can be as good than some GGs from Pfalz and not that far from von der fels -tier which is way harder to buy at release price. BW GG (or GCs) prices has gone out of hand.

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Just tried some 23 Kellers.

Vom Muscheligen Kalk was really lovely. A little atypical of Keller (a bit more floral and rich which is understandable given the varietals) but had good acidity and balance. Will buy more of this.

Van der Fels is going to be excellent but a bit tight and needs to settle down. High acidity though, and definitely loads of potential.

That said, the RR is possibly going to be the wine of the vintage. Tight but packing twice the punch of VdF. Low RS in 23 and reasonably high acidity.

Rosé FR. nearly all the production went to Norway this year. It’s not as reductive as the 22 and perhaps not quite as concentrated but it’s excellent nonetheless. From 2029+ this is going to be stunning.

Tried the Julian Haart Mosel Riesling also which, although stopping a fair bit short of the quality of the superb Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, is also going to be great in 3-4 years’ time. Although the Kabi has lower acidity than previous vintages (8,7 g/l as opposed to the 10 for 21 and 22 I think) the Mosel Riesling seems in the same vein as previous years in this respect. Though I would say it’s the best vintage I’ve had of this wine so far. Bit of an unbefitting sponty note which masks the character of the wine so will leave my case for a few years.

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Fine wines. Considered #1 in the Pfalz by some margin, and among finest German addresses overall. The prices got rather silly over the last few years. Yet they are among the first which sell out domestically, year in year out. Perhaps they don’t have to export?

On the countryside I had this bottle in the fridge, perfect for the german game against Danemark.

2009 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf „Forster Jesuitengarten“ GC Riesling

„The VDP.GROSSE LAGE® JESUITENGARTEN is located on the outskirt of Forst directly in the neighbourhood of four other prime vineyards: GL KIRCHENSTÜCK, GL UNGEHEUER, and GL PECHSTEIN. Due to its high mineral content, optimal available water capacity, and diverse soils of calcareous and clay, sandy loam with limestone rubble, and in some places a high concentration of weathered basalt or humus, this is considered one of the very best vineyards in the Pfalz. The basalt components help warm the east facing site quickly in the morning sun. A west to east breeze cools and dries the grapes in the evening and helps to ensure that even highly ripe grapes remain healthy. The vineyard slopes at 4 to 7 percent and spreads between 100 and 145 metres a.s.l. Exclusively Riesling grows here. History: The site was placed in the second highest category in the Bavarian vineyard classification of 1828. The Jesuit Monastery of Neustadt and der Weinstraße was the former owner of the site, which is the origin of its name.“

https://www.vdp.de/en/the-wines/vineyardonline/lage/6101-jesuitengarten

First, I am impressed how good these 2009s aged. I didń`t expect that for this ripe vintage. And it is not the first terrific aged 2009er, I had several others and most memorable a stunning 2009 Dönnhoff „Hermannshöhle“ GG.

Anwyway, it starts with a beautiful smoky bouquet based on volcanic basalt, classic „Forst“. Then such balanced with a dense fruit of quince……herbs, blossoms, lemony and hugely mineral. Overall such elegant and good structured. Based on the colour and palate impressions there are good years ahead. I recommend to open a bottle now as it is in such good drinking spot, but clearly there is no hurry.

Finally, the cork was horrible. Dry and adhered with the bottle. The same with the 2010 Kirchenstück GC two weeks ago. Impossible to pull out. Unfortunately I had no „Durand“ on the countryside. But I am even skeptical that this corkscrew for old bottles would have managed it. Bad cork quality???

Bottom line, this wine underlines the fact for what the Bürklin-Wolf Rieslings are famous for, great ageability. AND I underestimated the vintage 2009.

93-94/100

P.S. Sorry, not the right thread. On the other hand a reply to the Bürklin-Wolf discussion.

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I would load up on the 2023 vintage. The Saar and Ruwer not only have extensive frost damage but also downy mildew pressure in 2024. It looks to be a small crop.

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Yes; I’m not counting on getting any 2024 vintage.

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2023 Emrich-Schönleber „Frühtau“ Riesling Trocken

I know the estate Emrich-Schönleber and their wines around 20 years and I never had before such a high quality in a non-GG by Frank Schönleber. At least I can`t remember. :joy:

Of course the grapes are from the „Frühlingsplätzchen“ vineyard. „The Frühlingsplätzchen vineyard has a southwest-to-southeast exposure. At its steepest point, it has a 70% incline. It is little wonder therefore that the winter snows melt the fastest and that spring awakens particularly early in this vineyard. Its soils mostly consist of red slate and gravel, frequently interspersed with the red-coloured loam referred to as Rotliegend.“

Here we have a subtle-fruity „feinfruchtige“ elegance, silkiness, balance, extract and a refreshing acidity combined with white blossoms, white peach which is really spectacular.

Interestingly, I started as a „Halenberg“ lover, but over the years it changed to „Frühlingsplätzchen“. The turning point was to taste aged Frühlingsplätzchen GGs side by side with aged „Halenberg“ GGs. A 2004 Frühlingsplätzchen GG was such outstanding and full of finesse that it changed my view. I clearly underestimated the Frühlingsplätzchen.

Available for 21-22€ in Germany.

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Sounds lovely Martin! Have you by chance tasted the 2023 E-S ”Mineral”? How do they compare?

William,

next week, stay tuned……

Fascinating how the ripe&round acidity cuddle with the fruit. Just drink the „Frühtau“ on day 2.

A phenomen I also observed in March regarding Keller 2023.

Anyway 2023 is really something special.

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I am not convinced regarding 2023 Mineral. Not enough slim, not enough pure, not enough crisp and not enough mineral.

I know sounds strange. Buy a bottle and make your own judgement. If you enjoy it, I am happy for you. 2023 Frühtau shows much more finesse and complexity.

A swedish friend visited E-S last week and he was thrilled from 2023 Halgans and in general regarding 2023 E-S.

In addition he also raved regarding 2023 Dönhoff.

Cheers,
Martin

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