My first from the venerated Emmanuel Reynaud. It was a weird experience. As the wine took on air, it developed in the opposite direction of what I’m used to. I’ll explain below- maybe someone here has an explanation.
The wine out of the bottle was beautiful: delicate raspberries supported by a touch of garrigue and dried lavender. An undertone of black olives (Syrah inclusion?). Light, lithe, vibrant in the mouth. Just a lovely wine. I thought I was in love.
But as the wine took on air, it become disjointed, way too sweet, developed an alcohol burn on the finish. Tannins, if anything, got chunky and blocky. It was like an awkward wine out of the bottle that needed time in a decanter. The longer it sat, the more backward it became.
I’m pretty sure that it’s not due to temperature. I tried chilling it down, which didn’t seem to do much. No idea what to make of this. Fantastic out of the bottle, but it never really recovered…
I am a huge Reynaud fan. They are some of the most mindblowing wines I’ve had, but I think in warm years the ripeness of the Southern Rhone can take over. 2007 and 2009 in particular were years where everything I’ve had has just shown too much ripeness (even if you get glimpses of the spice and delicacy). I’ve only had Pialade from 2019 and it was really nice and beautifully balanced, and didn’t seem to veer into an overripe style over a few hours drinking it. The 2009 Des Tours was quite ripe when I had it last year. The 2011 Des Tours however is super fresh, red fruited, and nicely spiced. Overall I try to seek out the cooler years when I can. I’d look for 2008s or 2011s if you can find them.
I’ll second that I think age can help. If the wine is a bit monolithic, tannic, etc. Then I think there is some hope. But overripeness? Not convinced that ages out.
Not a particular insight into your wine, but I think I’ve had similar patterns for different wines, mostly ones that are high in alcohol from a warm region. Some Rioja, CdP and Bierzo. Fresh and red fruited upon opening but it got darker, less fresh and a little flabby with some heat on the palate over time. I think a part of it is due to temp (esp alcohol sensation) as you said, but they don’t usually go back fresh after putting them in a fridge over night. They were all relatively young, but I’m not sure if age will resolve it as others suggested.
Intersting that you’ve experienced this with wines from hot regions. These maybe be made with a light touch, but are Southern Rhine wines at the end of the day.
From the Rayas stable, I find I struggle with Des Tours the most. They were much more enjoyable wines when they cost practically nothing, as they provided a taste of the house style for a reasonable price. For what they cost now, I am much less forgiving of the flaws, and more often than not, I find the wines overripe with overt alcohol.
Agree with what Chris notes above re: avoiding hot vintages of the last two decades, and I would extend that all the way to the top of the portfolio.
The Reynaud wines as a whole don’t really behave like other wines. I would agree with Brodie’s analysis. Wait a decade and see…
I remember owning a lot the the 2010 Vacqueyras, and selling it because it seemed so hot and out-of-balance. Last year, I was served a glass in a restaurant and it was lovely. Go figure.
Hi Chris, honestly not sure how there is any relevance to whatever humour you think you are attempting here??
None of these buzz word descriptors you are tossing out even remotely apply to the Reynaud wines in the slightest. They are traditionalists and very old fashioned.
Anyway carry on with this stuff if it makes you happy
Sorry just randomly trying to be funny. I guess it missed its mark.
I’m actually opening a bottle of 2011 Chateau de Tours Vacqueyras tonight as part of a blind tasting I’m hosting. It’s decanting right now and while a little tight initially, it seems like a good bottle. I’ll post a note here as penance for my internet sins.
