Just opened a 2001 La Fuga. Bought upon release and properly cellared. Cork was fine. Rich garnet color with no noticeable bricking. Beautiful tertiary aroma of cigar box and sweetness without being syrupy on the palate. Nice long finish. I’m confident that this could go another 10 years without being over the hill.
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The 2013 Chiuse Riserva (Diecianni) was just released early last year, so might not be the best example even if it has been 10 years since the vintage. Just my 2 cents. I agree though, it is an excellent wine and was happy to have tasted it when I visited.
Count me in the camp that happily buy brunello for aging 20+ years. Two weeks ago I served a flight of 2004’s:
Il Poggione
Fuligni
Cerbaiona
Salvioni
Poggio di Sotto
Soldera
All sang and was just entering their drinking window IMHO. All bought on release and this was in most cases the first bottle I pulled from case purchases.
I have no doubt that the 2019’s will age well as well.
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I’m currently opening a lot of the 2012 brunellos right now. All have been in a very good drinking window but some are declining.
2012 Casanova di neri: on the decline drink now
2012 casa raia: could use 3-5 more years but very delicious now
2012 Altesino reserva: needs 5 years
2012 Le Ragnaie: drink now or wait 2-4 years
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Similar to you I had it while visiting Chiuse and it was phenomenal
So yes, not an example for a 20 year wine, but for a ten year wine it was mind blowing (cellar tracker notes pretty high as well). I have two saved for the future
Recently had the 04 Poggione - slightly past where i like it, but by no means over the hill. Starting to think 15 years might be the sweet spot for me for a lot of the more traditional.
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2012 is definitely in the drink now zone as a vintage
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It really depends on the producer. Stylistically, the more oak driven, the less they age, but this is far from a certainty and I believe that is more the intent of those producers that correlates with the oak.
As for some examples of where this rule of thumb is wrong, on Easter I had 2004 Poggio Antico Brunello Altero and it was certainly not past it. This was aged in medium sized French oak, possibly toasted. More oak than I personally prefer but the wine was in very good shape and still very enjoyable.
Talenti, is another modern producer I trust to age. I will be getting into there 2004 Brunello Pian di Conte sometime soon. The last I had was in 2020 and it was remarkable.
Ucceliera & Il Poggione are 2 others that age well for modern style.
Argiano in the past (pre 2012ish) was very oak driven. I recently had the 2004 and the 2006 Argiano Brunello. Both performed very well. Today their Brunello are more traditionally vinified, but their other wines are still modern.
I think the key is knowing the producers, knowing the style is helpful, but not enough imo. Knowing their intent tells you more. And the oak becomes just a preference thing.
There are also other Brunello that age much longer too. Biondi Santi Riserva will consistently go 40+ years, and apparently in some cases perform well over 100 years.
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