Just opened a 2001 La Fuga. Bought upon release and properly cellared. Cork was fine. Rich garnet color with no noticeable bricking. Beautiful tertiary aroma of cigar box and sweetness without being syrupy on the palate. Nice long finish. I’m confident that this could go another 10 years without being over the hill.
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The 2013 Chiuse Riserva (Diecianni) was just released early last year, so might not be the best example even if it has been 10 years since the vintage. Just my 2 cents. I agree though, it is an excellent wine and was happy to have tasted it when I visited.
Count me in the camp that happily buy brunello for aging 20+ years. Two weeks ago I served a flight of 2004’s:
Il Poggione
Fuligni
Cerbaiona
Salvioni
Poggio di Sotto
Soldera
All sang and was just entering their drinking window IMHO. All bought on release and this was in most cases the first bottle I pulled from case purchases.
I have no doubt that the 2019’s will age well as well.
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I’m currently opening a lot of the 2012 brunellos right now. All have been in a very good drinking window but some are declining.
2012 Casanova di neri: on the decline drink now
2012 casa raia: could use 3-5 more years but very delicious now
2012 Altesino reserva: needs 5 years
2012 Le Ragnaie: drink now or wait 2-4 years
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Similar to you I had it while visiting Chiuse and it was phenomenal
So yes, not an example for a 20 year wine, but for a ten year wine it was mind blowing (cellar tracker notes pretty high as well). I have two saved for the future
Recently had the 04 Poggione - slightly past where i like it, but by no means over the hill. Starting to think 15 years might be the sweet spot for me for a lot of the more traditional.
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2012 is definitely in the drink now zone as a vintage
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It really depends on the producer. Stylistically, the more oak driven, the less they age, but this is far from a certainty and I believe that is more the intent of those producers that correlates with the oak.
As for some examples of where this rule of thumb is wrong, on Easter I had 2004 Poggio Antico Brunello Altero and it was certainly not past it. This was aged in medium sized French oak, possibly toasted. More oak than I personally prefer but the wine was in very good shape and still very enjoyable.
Talenti, is another modern producer I trust to age. I will be getting into there 2004 Brunello Pian di Conte sometime soon. The last I had was in 2020 and it was remarkable.
Ucceliera & Il Poggione are 2 others that age well for modern style.
Argiano in the past (pre 2012ish) was very oak driven. I recently had the 2004 and the 2006 Argiano Brunello. Both performed very well. Today their Brunello are more traditionally vinified, but their other wines are still modern.
I think the key is knowing the producers, knowing the style is helpful, but not enough imo. Knowing their intent tells you more. And the oak becomes just a preference thing.
There are also other Brunello that age much longer too. Biondi Santi Riserva will consistently go 40+ years, and apparently in some cases perform well over 100 years.
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Been putting my orders in across a few merchants:
- Baricci
- Capanna
- CastelGiocondo
- Ciacci Piccolomini D’aragona Pianrosso
- Le Chiuse
- Conti Costanti
- Collosorbo
- Mocali and Mocali Vigna Raunate
- San Giorgio Ugolforte
- Talenti
- Uccelliera
- Voliero
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I bought some 2015s/2016s and I am just wondering based on a lot of your experience when are these wines in a good drinking window, I mainly purchased Casanova di Neri…
What, no new paradigm???
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Some people like them young, some old. Also depends on the producer and what the wines are built for. The wines I drink, I tend to like around 10-20 years
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My two cents worth, the white label (which I personally prefer of their wines, as it ages in large neutral botti instead of barriques and is redder fruited and more elegant) 2015s and 2016s probably drink pretty well now, but can age 10+ years too.
The Tenuta Nuova probably needs another 5+ years for the oak to integrate better and seem more Tuscany-like and less “big international red wine” like. Though of course everyone’s tastes and appreciation/tolerance of new oak profiles varies widely. And I’m sure one of those wouldn’t be a total waste to drink now, with a lengthy decant, if you wanted to check in on it and see how you like its current state of evolution.
Edit: I just went out of curiosity and looked at CT notes about the wines, and a significant portion of the comments about the white label 2015 and 2016 seem to indicate it’s not in a great spot right now and should rest longer. So there you go.
Second edit: I’m not really sure about what kinds of barrels are used for the white label these days, either. That was how it was made last time I visited, but that was 15 years ago.
Thanks, to be honest we also prefer the white label, I have found the Tenuta Nuova drinks well out the gate but then goes through a clunky period which I have yet to see the end of. The white label seems to be consistently good and goes through highs and lows but never in this clunky phase.
I checked in on a '16 Tenuta Nuova a week or two ago and it was much better on the second night so it could use more time. Like others stated, it’s made in a more modern style although to my palate is more “polished” than full modern (lacks the rustic charm of a traditional style but doesn’t have the strong barrique influence).
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My general rule is let the 16s sit for another 5+ years. I have 4 bottles remaining of the white label 2016 that I am not planning to touch again until 2031. It was enjoyable about 2 years ago when I opened my first bottle, but I think if you open it now, you will miss the liveliness of youth, and the complexity of age.
IMO many Brunello show well upon release with air, or a proper pairing, but then they lose a bit of their freshness 1-3 years later, while rounding out. Even though they may be easier to drink for those averse to tannin, they become muted overall. Better to wait until they are more mature.
Maybe you should age some Brunellos from too vintages for 20-30 years and figure it out yourself.
I love the Tenuta Nuova, but only if it has 10+ years and a long decant (usually a double decant with 3 hours in the decanter). It’s one of those wines I adore when its had the right time and one that I do not like at all if not. There’s no in between for that wine with me and I’ve learned not to touch them until ten years or buy them at a restaurant.
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Eric Guido brought an 01 Tenuta Nuova to a dinner last week and we were excited to try it but sadly it was corked.
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Speaking of, did anyone get any 19 Tenuta Nuova from last bottle today? What was the deal price?