I’ve been enjoying the fresh and zippy 2016 Paul Jaboulet Aine ‘Domaine Thalabert’ [Crozes Hermitage] over the last couple of nights. It needs aeration to shed some matchstick funk upon opening; I poured it on the first night in a huge 700ml Riedel 001 glass which is like drinking out a widemouth decanter. Even though Caroline Frey promises fruit (blackberries) on the back label, I find it leans more toward savory black olives. The nose has white pepper, the palate has crushed berries, and there is juicy acidity on this medium bodied, purplish/black pure syrah. Tannin have softened up on this 13% abv red at age 8. It’s a very likable wine, tilted toward the bright side, and should have another decade of positive development. It’s vastly better than the 2016 PJA ‘Jalets’ dogs breakfast bottling that sometimes makes it to the US. I realize this old school negociant doesn’t have a WB fan club, but this feels like a wine with some upside, possibly meriting an A- grade in a few years. I have a few more so will have time to observe it.
My favorite PJA red Crozes remains the old Rourre vineyard.