Push the envelope a bit for the benefit of the overall taste of a wine while retaining the ability to reign it back a bit if need be. A better upside than down.
Winemakers commonly make a distinction between two rather separate ripening processes, known as phenolic ripeness and sugar ripeness, although this distinction is contested by some. Phenolic ripeness (also referred to as physiological ripeness) refers to the changes in the tannins that occur in grape skins, seeds and stems. Sugar ripeness refers to the breakdown of acids and accumulation of sugars. In the classic northern hemisphere regions, grapes are typically harvested by sugar ripeness. In many vintages it’s a question of getting the grapes as ripe as possible before autumn rains set in, and usually the phenolic ripeness is satisfactory where yields have been kept sane.
In warmer regions the growers get better results picking by phenolic ripeness, because this often trails sugar ripeness. Warm regions have no problem producing grapes with high levels of sugar and thus potential alcohol, and here the challenge is to get grapes to reach phenolic ripeness without making wines with heroic alcohol levels and no natural acidity. It’s no good picking earlier at 13 degrees potential alcohol in order to avoid an alcoholic wine, because if the phenolic ripeness isn’t adequate the wine will have an unpleasant green, unripe flavour to it.
What are wine growers aiming for? ‘Perfect’ ripeness is achieved when sugar levels are high enough but not too high to make a wine that has moderate alcohol levels; when acidity is naturally just right; when phenolics such as tannins are at the right stage; and when fruit flavours are appropriate from the wine style in question (for red wines, are they red or black, for example?). There are also a range of other chemicals found in grapes that will change in composition with the ripening process. Because many of these changes occur with different trajectories and are impacted by different factors, finding this place of perfect ripening balance can be an elusive goal.
For me brix are just what they are. An indicator of sugar level. They are not an indication of flavor and or ripeness. In warmer years you may have spikes in heat which will allow the brix to run up a few degrees while acid/ph doesn’t have a chance to catch up.
Push the envelope a bit for the benefit of the overall taste of a wine while retaining the ability to reign it back a bit if need be. A better upside than down.
Winemakers commonly make a distinction between two rather separate ripening processes, known as phenolic ripeness and sugar ripeness, although this distinction is contested by some. Phenolic ripeness (also referred to as physiological ripeness) refers to the changes in the tannins that occur in grape skins, seeds and stems. Sugar ripeness refers to the breakdown of acids and accumulation of sugars. In the classic northern hemisphere regions, grapes are typically harvested by sugar ripeness. In many vintages it’s a question of getting the grapes as ripe as possible before autumn rains set in, and usually the phenolic ripeness is satisfactory where yields have been kept sane.
In warmer regions the growers get better results picking by phenolic ripeness, because this often trails sugar ripeness. Warm regions have no problem producing grapes with high levels of sugar and thus potential alcohol, and here the challenge is to get grapes to reach phenolic ripeness without making wines with heroic alcohol levels and no natural acidity. It’s no good picking earlier at 13 degrees potential alcohol in order to avoid an alcoholic wine, because if the phenolic ripeness isn’t adequate the wine will have an unpleasant green, unripe flavour to it.
What are wine growers aiming for? ‘Perfect’ ripeness is achieved when sugar levels are high enough but not too high to make a wine that has moderate alcohol levels; when acidity is naturally just right; when phenolics such as tannins are at the right stage; and when fruit flavours are appropriate from the wine style in question (for red wines, are they red or black, for example?). There are also a range of other chemicals found in grapes that will change in composition with the ripening process. Because many of these changes occur with different trajectories and are impacted by different factors, finding this place of perfect ripening balance can be an elusive goal.
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Mike beat me to the post and provided a much more technological response.
Thanks Mike. Here’s a follow-up? If the sugar ripeness is achieved, but growers are waiting for phenolic ripeness to catch-up would irrigation help and also remove the need for adding water later?
Depends on who you get the answer from. I do think the simple answer is that it’s the style of wine that most people have come to expect from Napa Cabs - bigger, richer, more voluptuous wines. There is a widespread belief (and maybe it’s true) that waiting longer develops better, more complex, more intense flavors, and the resultant higher alcohol levels are the natural result.
As with anything, there’s a range, some picking on the earlier side of the window, some toward the end of the window.
Thanks for the input, guys. Interesting read. God knows I certainly don’t want a 16+% cab (on the label at least). I save those for numbers for my guilty Saxum pleasure.
I don’t always agree with my friend Mr. Piper, but I do agree with a number of points here. In particular, the specialness of these back-to-back vintages for Napa Valley Cabernet - the 2012 and 2013. And for those of us who actually farm the grapes we produce wine from, these were nice vintages to grow! None of the pain of 2008, 2010, 2011.
I also agree that there is no evidence that smaller yields guarantee better wines. These 2 vintages were both high-yielding, and I feel sad that anyone took any shoots down to one cluster - what a waste.
And for the record, I picked at 24 Brix in 2012 and 24.4 in 2013. Just the way I like them for my product. From my vineyard. For my taste .
Phil, its all style preference. Nobody is wrong.
BTW, I have had Schraders in 2009 and quite like them.
I won’t ask twenty from them either though. I have had my share of Dunns too. I was never be able to enjoy them so young. Thay certainly does not mean I think them bad wines, just wines not for me.
Respectfully, I don’t think it’s a style thing. I honestly believe that people have been conditioned in the last decade to believe that is what Cabernet is supposed to taste like. That “style” is new to Napa Cab. Tell me that Harlan 1994 or 1997 is drinking well.
My point is these wines have moved to a more fruit forward and accessible point. I am not disputing age-ability with you. I personally would drink all these up before 10. With that in mind, your 94 and 97 has missed the window (if the 97 ever had one is another story). They are Cabs, just not our fathers Cabs. I reckon domestic Pinots have evolved similarly but have no real measure to know by myself. Don’t forget, I have been around these for 3.25 decades so the conditioning theory is wasted on me.
One more thing. I have had many Mayacamas but none as great as the perfectly stored magnums from a few years ago. What the key element (to me at least) was the youthfulness they showed.
Here are the notes from Feb 2008:
1973 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon from a pristine magnum
This had a great lush dark resolved fruit profile that belied its age. The color was dark. There was great dark currant, blackberry, tar, cocoa, and so much more going on. I kept this glass alive until the end of the night. It changed and evolved getting lusher and deeper. The finish was long. If tasted blind I would place this at about 6 or 7 years of age. This 35 year old was amazing. (Comforting like a warm blanket) 94/100
1975 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon from a pristine magnum
This wine in itself was worth the price of admission for the night. Dark brooding color. Silky dark fruited and jam packed full of character. This had a wonderful fully resolved tannin level acted like a conveyor for all else. Some soy, cedar box, tobacco, & cassis. This wine needed a night to watch. A long finish that was like hitting a birdie on 18 that gets you smiling and planning your next outing even before you get back to the cart., here, your next taste. 96/100
For ‘complexion’, here was the equally stored Heitz from the same tasting.
1977 Heitz Bella Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon from a pristine magnum
This was pure 1970s California…. fast-forwarded. Slightly edgy and rustic. A nice dark fruit profile that seemed masked by a matured high oak level? Not quite sure. Some currant and spice, and some other nice secondaries. Kevin to my right loved it so, I emptied my glass and got myself more of that '75 Mayacamas. 89/100
I’m not arguing for reading labels - but picking at 27.5 brix would get you about 17.1% abv - which is at or near fortified before you start messing around with it.
I’m just asking anyone else if that seems a little strange to them…
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