Received the 2011 Dunn Nappa and Howell Mountain last week, and decided to follow the example of Mr. Pobega and kill one of each.
Since we have had some filtering debate here, of late, we also filtered half of each bottle and compared…
2011 Napa: The winner right after “pop and pour.” Tremendous structure and restrained fruit. One of those “iron fist in a velvet glove” kind of cabs - by which I mean that all the classic cabernet flavor was there, but not fruit forward at all. It had depth of flavor and a tight (no d’uh) over-all presentation that remained through the evening. Opened way too early, of course, but tasting a Dunn wine early makes for good future fun when tasting it again in 20 years. This style of wine is right up my alley, but others may opine its lack of “smoothness” or “mellowness.” It tasted “authoritative.” Compared to many other new style cabernets, an analogy might be that newer style wines are like a Cadillac or Lincoln, and this is like a Lotus.
Sorry for the silly vocabulary.
2011 Howell Mountain: In a close race through the night, the Howell Mountain, I think, ended up the winner. It actually evolved more in the decanter than the Napa, with more vanilla and oak tones. I would call it the ‘softer’ of the two. No, that’s crazy talk, not ‘softer,’ but it’s (pardon the term) massiveness integrated with the wood notes really nicely through the night. The fruit and wood worked very well together.
Both wines are going to be great in the long haul!
As for the filter debate - we used a paper coffee filter, about 20 micron, and the wine did not change in appearance after filtering vs. not filtered. No residual on the filter - and nobody was able to discern a difference between the filtered and unfiltered wines. No “stripping of the fruit” and no accumulation of all the fruitiness in the filters.
No noticeable difference between filtered vs. unfiltered over the course of about 4 hours.
For these wines, I’d say “no difference,” and no significant residue in the filters, either.
As to value: These wine offer tremendous QPR for how great they are. If you are a fan of “structure,” perhaps one of the AFWE, these wines are the epitome of what I hope for in Cali cabs.