I have been having this discussion with some other winemakers about what I have noticed about the 2006 and 2007 Napa Cabernet vintages, so I thought I would throw this out there just for discussion purposes.
When 2006 was in the fermenter I had no doubt that it was better than the 2005 vintage, as it had good fruit but much more backbone than that vintage. But then, once the wines were in barrel a few months, they really closed up and lost much of their flesh. And they stayed that way; more linear, more structured, more needing of time. After 3 years it seemed the vintage was destined to be a “good” one that would need 5-10 years to hopefully show it’s best. This has stayed true ever since…that is until about 4-5 months ago.
The 2007s were clearly phenomenal the moment they were in tank and have been amazing ever since, with great fruit, tremendous balance, enormous concentration and smooth but pronounced tannin. All the flesh of 05, all the structure of 06, but a level of concentration above either. That is, until the last 4-5 months.
The 2006s have REALLY opened up in many of the Cabs I have had lately and right now seem to be drinking better than most 2005s, a vintage so fruity, I figured it would be the better vintage for at least 10 years. The 07s still have amazing textures and massive mouthfeels at reasonable ripeness levels (for California,) but the noses are closing up big time right now and for my money, are less drinkable than the quickly gaining 2006s.
I have had many 2007s the last month or two and it seems that the trend is happening at many wineries. No one is worried because you can tell by the mouthfeel and tannin quality that the 07s are a classic vintage, easily the best of my short tenure here and is considered by most veterans to be alongside the 2001, 1994 and 1974 vintages. But it also seems like many of these are not going to show as well right away as some were hoping. I had Alpha Omega’s entire 2007 lineup the other day (which I will report on in another thread) and their 07 Era was the first wine I have ever had from bottle that I have to score like a barrel sample. It almost has to be scored in a range, depending on how it develops. Btw, the range is from excellent to amazing.
Most of the great 07s I had a year ago out of barrel are not as aromatically explosive now as they were then and I am starting to think everyone will have to be a little more patient than one might have predicted some time ago. They will be great, but drinking them soon might be infanticide, something I rarely find true of Cabs from Napa. Meanwhile, many 06s are in a very good spot right now. I don’t know if they will stay there and if this is just a nice window or whether this is just a pleasant surprise, but they are gaining weight while not losing their steely core. Decanting a few hours does wonders for many 06s right now if you are not ruffled by some tannin.
Just goes to show that even we are fairly limited in projecting drinkability on our own creations. I would be interested to know if others in the industry are seeing this trend?