2004 Tatsis Goumenissa

Medium garnet color to the rim. Black cherry, spicy, herbal, earthy aromas, between primary and secondary. The palate is vivid and tannic, with fresh acidity, the texture is zingy. This is in the texture and flavor family of Pinot and Nebbiolo. It is definitely on the rustic side of that family, which is not a complaint. With time and air it gains some manners, but I think it will always be a little boisterous, again not a complaint. The face-smack vigor is balanced by exuberance. This is very good, very original and surprisingly youthful. Rated 90.5, probably fully mature.

Dan Kravitz