In March / April I had the chance to taste the newest releases of many BdM producers at ProWein in Duesseldorf and VinItaly in Verona. Here are my TN’s:
Valdicava
Their 2004 Brunello left me a bit underwhelmed. The wine was closed like nails and showed alsmost no aromas besides from prunes and some overripeness… This is hard to judge. No sangiovese aromatices here. Maybe it had a bottleshock … (NR)
Siro Pacenti
This 2004 Brunello was off the charts. If you like the more modern style of Brunello / Sangiovese this is a wine to buy. If you taste this wine next to a traditional BdM (Il Marroneto comes to mind) one would not belief these wines come from the same appellation. Nevertheless there is chocolate, vanilla and toasted oak. The finish goes on and on ! (95). Tradidionalists beware.
The 2007 Rosso is a fantastic wine too. In fact I prefered this to 50% of the 2004 Brunelli. While the wine aint cheap it is definitely woth the price. Kudos ! (92)
Villa le Prata
The 2004 Brunello was a revelation and one of my major discoveries. The wines are éxtremely fairly priced and fantastic values ! The 2004 Brunello is all about balance and harmony. The wine has good Sangiovese aromatics. The tannins are velvety with a wunderfull precise fruit. Also there is a nice touch of toastek oak. The finish is warm and looong. At ~ 25 Euro this is a screaming deal (93+). The 2007 Rosso is only a small step down from his bigger brother. Very good value (90+).
Ciacci Piccolomini
The 2004 Brunello is a verg good wine with typical Brunello aromatics and a good finish (91). The 2004 Brunello “Pianrosso” is one step up from its smaller brother – Aromatics of flowers and red fruits (92+).
Uccelliera
Well … Suckling got this one rigth. The 2004 Brunello is indeed a fantastic bottle of wine. The wine kind of explodes on the palate and fills the mouth. On the palate this is so rich with black fruits and strong sweet tannins. The finish is amazingly long (95). Also amazing is the 2007 Rosso which comes across like the smaller sibling of the 2004 BdM. This is drinkable now and has everything one can ask from a good RdM … WOW ! (91).
Casanova di Neri
While the wines are very modern in style, from a sole quality point of view this migth have been the best portfolio from all Montalcino producers on the fair. Starting with the 2007 Rosso and ending with the 2004 Brunello Ceretalto every single wine from this portfolio was off the charts. The only question is if one likes this style of Brunello winemaking ? I have to admit that I prefer my BdM a little more traditional with a little less new wood but who cares ? All wines are extremly powerfull and in your face style. 2004 Brunello (91), 2004 BdM “Tenuta Nuova” (94+), 2004 BdM “Ceretalto” (95++).
Salvioni
The 2004 Brunello is more about balance and harmony then about power. Good acidity, floral notes, classical styled. A modell of a BdM - This is Sublime ! (93)
Stella di Campalto (Podere San Giuseeppe)
This 2004 Brunello is too good to be true. I had never tasted any of these wines what is not that big of a surprise as her annual production is something like 4.000 bottles ob BdM. This was by far the most extreme Brunello I tasted ar the fair. While the style is more traditional then modern in any way this wine tastes as if it was treated with steroids. When you prefer the more burgundian style of Brunello this is not the rigth wine for you. If you are willing to taste something really special try to get hold of a bottle. This is not for the shy of heart. The wine is extremely complex and full bodied. It is very focussed and extremely juicy with rich fruit. This is extraterrestrial ! (96+)
The 2006 Rosso is better then 70% of all Brunelli I tasted at the fair. I would take a bottle of this over a bottle of any simple Brunello from Banfi, Col d’Orcia, Pian del Vigne or Frescobaldi any day (92+)
Poggio il Castellare
While I do not agree with Suckling who seems to think that this 2004 Brunello is one of the TOP 5 from all 2004 BdM’s I have to admit that it is indeed quite a good wine for what it is. As the sells for ~ 25 Euro here in Europe one should not expect an intellectual experience from this wine. Hoowever it has very nice fruit, good tannins and a very good balance. If you look for a 2004 BdM with a good QPR and ready to consume during the coming 5 years this is indeed a good choice. If you want to age your 2004 BdM I would look somewhere else (92).
Il Marroneto
The 2004 Brunello was a revelation. This is traditional winemaking at it’s best. One of the ligtest colours of all 2004 BdM’s I tasted. Wunderfull notes of roses and cherries. Strong tannins and a brigth fruit. Wunderfull (92). The 2004 Brunello “Madonna del Grazie” is even better and one step up from his little brother in any way. It has more power, even more layered fruits and the finish is too god to be true. A Masterpiece (94).
Also tasted but no detailled notes taken:
Poggio di Sotto 2004 BdM was tasted from a bottle opened the day before. The wine was too warm suffered from oxidation, so this was not a representative showing (NR). The 2004 Collemattoni BdM was good but nothing more than that. Hard to understand why JS went gaga over this one (90). Podere la Vigna 2004 BdM is a nice bottle of wine but nothing special – at least in my book (90). The San Filippo 2004 BdM “Le Lucere” came across a little too sweet and arbitrary for me (89). The Salicutti 2004 BdM “Piaggione” is a nice bottle of wine, but at ~ 50 Euro it comes across grossly overpriceed for what it is (91). The same can be said about the Pian del Orino 2004 BdM - This is a medium boddied burgundian styled wine that failed to impress me (90). The Sesta di Sopra 2004 BdM in another example of a nice Brunello that seems be too expensive for what it is at ~ 50 Euro (91). The Fuligni 2004 BdM had an impressive showing (92+). Too modern for my taste but a very good wine - if you like that style - is the Oliveto 2004 BdM - Notes of red fruits and toasted oak and a very long finish (93).
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