Cos Labory is a wine I like to serve because it’s a great growth that not many people know. Production is small and prices are reasonable. It can also be very good, although sometimes a little austere and unyielding.
This was not at all the case with the 2003, which we enjoyed with roast leg of lamb. Curiously, the wine’s nose and even the palate seemed reminiscent of the red meat (hemoglobin, iron, what have you…).
The color was superb, really dark and deep. The nose was not the usual Médoc blackcurrant, but more forest berries such as blueberry. It showed considerable freshness and purity.
The palate was round and rich. It had something of Bordeaux, the Rhône, and the best New World wines all rolled into one. No rigidity or awkward tannins here!
The wine is certainly enjoyable now, and in some ways this might be the best time to drink it.
The only imperfection is an aftertaste that stopped relatively short.
But this was a round, approachable, sexy Bordeaux that I think even people who don’t usually drink Cabernet would enjoy.
I’ve found lower level St. Estephes really good in 2003. A little rough and ready but great depth. Makes sense as the top of that commune (Montrose, Cos) are some of the stars of the vintage.
This is my last bottle of the 2003 Cos Labory [St Estephe] from a 3 pack purchased EP all those years ago. The label states 13.5% but it feels bigger, as many fleshy 2003s did. Full bodied, and, as seen above, still holding its color well, and not fading at all over a couple nights. The tannins are all smoothed out, acid is low, and the fruit is on the black spectrum, with a touch of saddle on the nose. The bottle is well sedimented, but I let this settle before opening.
As Alex notes, this is a thinly distributed 4th growth - especially stateside - and I’ve only seen/purchased it on release in the ‘big’ years, backfilling a few from the 70’s & 80’s, but I think this vintage was my favorite, as it transcended it’s usual firm, stern self. I’d actually slot this satisfying Medoc in to the A- zone, but I’ve always loved this year in the AOC. Also, I have not experienced (in Cos Labory) the strange off notes/bouquet that can afflict some 2003’s; I’ve had St Pierre’s that smell like formaldehyde.
PS: That miniature acrylic magnet on the bottom right is a French souvenir a family member brought me…which curiously enough has a likeness of Cos Labory on it! That’s not the most obvious chateau that I would expect a touristy chotke stand would be hawking, but there you have it.