20 x HERMITAGE in Vienna

A friend of mine organized a great HERMITAGE-tasting in Vienna. Six of the 20 wines came from my cellar, indicated with *.

Openers – all wines red:
a) Vin de Pays „l’Appel des Sereines“– Villard 2010 - good, a bit simple, quite modern 85p
b) St.Joseph – Gangloff 2010 – much more serious, good grip and structure and potential, 89+p

1st flight:

  1. Hermitage „Le Greal“ – Marc Sorrel 2003: intense cherry-nose, soft with underlying structure, toasty, but fine balance and potential, 95p
  2. H. J.L.Chave – 2003: a big positive surprise ´cause it showed much more structure, even acidity, and far less primary fruit than on my last visit, on the other hands it seems to be a bit closed aromatically – and also the palate was less sweet than usual, very strong, so great, great potential, but not in a drinking phase, I think this will be great in 2023+ (97-100p)
  3. H. Bernard Faurie – 2006: very plummy nose, a bit rustic grip, nose not totally clean, but very good length, needs time, 90+?p
  4. Ermitage „Le Meal“ – Chapoutier 2003: a lot of dark berries and even cassis, hints of lactic and alc, modern style, but high class, 94+p

2nd flight:
5) H. La Chapelle – Jaboulet 1985*: nice orange-ruby, fully mature with earth and wet leaves and smoked meat, mouthfilling with slightly acidic touch, drink over the next 5 years, but very nice now, 92p
6) H. „Cuvée Emilie“ – Remizieres 1999*: definitely younger, very impressive, youthful but accessable, super depth and length, 95p
7) Ermitage „L´Hermite“ - Chapoutier 1998: good colour, alas corked - NR
8) H. „Gambert de Loche“ – Caves de Tain 1995: medium red, vital with noticable acidity, good balance but a bit „light“ on the palate, nevertheless stylish, 89p

3rd flight:
9) H. „Greffieres“ – L. de Vallouit 1995*: fragrant nose of red fruits, ripe orange zests, good grip, very enjoyable, a poînt, 92p
10) H. Guigal 1998: totally corked, NR
11) Ermitage „Ex Voto“ – Guigal 2001: first vintage, lots of red and dark berries, sweet and long, still primary, touch of wood, very stylish (modern), 94+p
12) H. „Vieilles Vignes“ – Tardieu-Laurent 1999*: very fine and elegant, classy, long and intense, 96+p

4th flight:
13) H. „Sizeranne“ – Chapoutier 1990: classy nose with cherries and black olives, (slightly dusty), good grip and length, 91p
14) H. „Bessards“ - Delas 1990: very full and sweet, chewy, intense and long, youthful and masuline, great in another 5+years, 96p
15) Ermitage „Pavillon“ – Chapoutier 1991: brighter, sweet but slightly lactic, good follow-through, long, but not exceptional, rather feminine and complex, 94p (I had better bottles)
16) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1994: very nice orange-ruby, a bit plummy, exellent showing, perfectly mature, sweet finish, 93p

5th flight:
17) H. J.L.Chave 1990*: full orange-red, deep and fragrant, very complex nose, fully mature, great inner core, immense balance, fine length, 98p
18) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1990: I recognized this wine immediately, very dark red with hints of black, intense nose of red and dark fruits, very powerful and incredible long on the palate, but it has opened a little bit until my last visit, more perfumed, sweeter on the palate and with a perspective of maturity (in another 10-12 years), this might be a younger silbling of the 1961 (which I have never had the joy to taste), so I have to give a perfect 100p
19) H. J.L.Chave 1989*: brighter than 17), slightly sweeter on the palate, more burgundian, very complex and developed, so I thought this to be the 1978 (I was wrong), 97p
20) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1978: I though this to be 1990 Chave (shame on me?), this was more saturated than 17) and 19), perfectly mature, very elegant, a fruitcake with herbs, olives and red sour cherries, sweet very long finish, only the 1990 La Chapelle which I simply think will ultimately surpass it prohibits to give this a perfect rating, 99p

A four course menu was served between the flights, exceptional cuisine by Mustapha (a Tunesian who learned in France and cooked in Belgium before) in the Restaurant „El Fontrussi“ – Reisnerstrasse 1030 Vienna, a hidden traditional Vienniese „Pub“ three minutes behind the Vienna Concert Hall.

Wow, what a super tasting, Gerhard; thanks for the terrific write up.

Interesting to see such different notes on the 03s compared to some posted here recently.

Wow, great notes and an incredible tasting. Flight 5 is just mind-boggling - simply amazing.

Nice work; thanks for the notes.

Bruce

Wow, thanks for the great write up on a better night.

I really hope the 90 la chapelle turns into the 78. The 78 is the best Rhone wine and one of the 2-3 best wines I’ve ever had. Magical stuff.

89 and 90 Chave. Mmmmm

Cheers

Yes amazing. Dan we should duplicate that here. I’ll bring the 90 and you the 78 ok ?

What was the elapsed time for this dinner? Four or five hours?

Super envious. Some real beauties there.

Thanks for posting

Yes, interesting that the 03s showed so well.

Of all these, the only ones I’ve had are the 85 and 94 La Chapelles. I remember that the 85 was wonderful when I last had it 10+ years ago. I bought a bunch of the 94, which was fully mature and silky even 10 years ago. I finished my last bottle five years ago. I’m not sure I ever had a bottle I’d have given 93 points, but it gave a lot of pleasure and it was cheap when I picked it up 12 years or so ago.

+1 to what everyone has said.

How many people were tasting?

Thanks for posting your notes; what a magnificent lineup.

I know there is some bias reg. hot vintages, and not all 2003 do show well, but these three were very promising - no question.
However, all wines younger than 15 years were definitely too young for me …

We started at 7.30 pm - and finished close to midnight … easily enough time for each flight.

We were 15 at the table - very comfortable for sharing a bottle.

Jaboulet also didn´t bottle the whole vintage in one go, there were usually several … that could explain some variation. Also for me this was the best bottle of 1994 LCh so far … and it was really on the spot.

BTW: all bottles have been standing upright for weeks, have been opened by the host 5 h in advance - and decanted some 5 min. before serving … this is IMHO the best way to treat these wines (and others).

Very nice tasting. Good write up.

I have Hermitage La Chapelle from the 1980s. But most since then.

Wow, what wines, great range! Thanks for sharing, Gerhard! Will have to try that restaurant when in Vienna next time as well./C

I guess I’m getting to the point in my life where I’d much prefer a tasting like that to start at Noon or 1PM [if not 11AM in the morning]. I just can’t fathom drinking more alcohol at 9PM and even more alcohol at 10PM and even even more alcohol at 11PM etc etc etc.

Whew.

It’s hard work just thinking about it.

Sounds like a great time. Thanks for posting.

Christofer,
please note that this was a special menu created for our tasting -
the usual possibilities on the daily menu are “simpler” but nevertheless excellent.
You should call in advance:

http://www.tripadvisor.at/Restaurant_Review-g190454-d2078231-Reviews-El_Fontroussi-Vienna.html

I think its preferable to drink at 9 pm than at 9 am. [shock.gif]