A friend of mine organized a great HERMITAGE-tasting in Vienna. Six of the 20 wines came from my cellar, indicated with *.
Openers – all wines red:
a) Vin de Pays „l’Appel des Sereines“– Villard 2010 - good, a bit simple, quite modern 85p
b) St.Joseph – Gangloff 2010 – much more serious, good grip and structure and potential, 89+p
1st flight:
- Hermitage „Le Greal“ – Marc Sorrel 2003: intense cherry-nose, soft with underlying structure, toasty, but fine balance and potential, 95p
- H. J.L.Chave – 2003: a big positive surprise ´cause it showed much more structure, even acidity, and far less primary fruit than on my last visit, on the other hands it seems to be a bit closed aromatically – and also the palate was less sweet than usual, very strong, so great, great potential, but not in a drinking phase, I think this will be great in 2023+ (97-100p)
- H. Bernard Faurie – 2006: very plummy nose, a bit rustic grip, nose not totally clean, but very good length, needs time, 90+?p
- Ermitage „Le Meal“ – Chapoutier 2003: a lot of dark berries and even cassis, hints of lactic and alc, modern style, but high class, 94+p
2nd flight:
5) H. La Chapelle – Jaboulet 1985*: nice orange-ruby, fully mature with earth and wet leaves and smoked meat, mouthfilling with slightly acidic touch, drink over the next 5 years, but very nice now, 92p
6) H. „Cuvée Emilie“ – Remizieres 1999*: definitely younger, very impressive, youthful but accessable, super depth and length, 95p
7) Ermitage „L´Hermite“ - Chapoutier 1998: good colour, alas corked - NR
8) H. „Gambert de Loche“ – Caves de Tain 1995: medium red, vital with noticable acidity, good balance but a bit „light“ on the palate, nevertheless stylish, 89p
3rd flight:
9) H. „Greffieres“ – L. de Vallouit 1995*: fragrant nose of red fruits, ripe orange zests, good grip, very enjoyable, a poînt, 92p
10) H. Guigal 1998: totally corked, NR
11) Ermitage „Ex Voto“ – Guigal 2001: first vintage, lots of red and dark berries, sweet and long, still primary, touch of wood, very stylish (modern), 94+p
12) H. „Vieilles Vignes“ – Tardieu-Laurent 1999*: very fine and elegant, classy, long and intense, 96+p
4th flight:
13) H. „Sizeranne“ – Chapoutier 1990: classy nose with cherries and black olives, (slightly dusty), good grip and length, 91p
14) H. „Bessards“ - Delas 1990: very full and sweet, chewy, intense and long, youthful and masuline, great in another 5+years, 96p
15) Ermitage „Pavillon“ – Chapoutier 1991: brighter, sweet but slightly lactic, good follow-through, long, but not exceptional, rather feminine and complex, 94p (I had better bottles)
16) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1994: very nice orange-ruby, a bit plummy, exellent showing, perfectly mature, sweet finish, 93p
5th flight:
17) H. J.L.Chave 1990*: full orange-red, deep and fragrant, very complex nose, fully mature, great inner core, immense balance, fine length, 98p
18) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1990: I recognized this wine immediately, very dark red with hints of black, intense nose of red and dark fruits, very powerful and incredible long on the palate, but it has opened a little bit until my last visit, more perfumed, sweeter on the palate and with a perspective of maturity (in another 10-12 years), this might be a younger silbling of the 1961 (which I have never had the joy to taste), so I have to give a perfect 100p
19) H. J.L.Chave 1989*: brighter than 17), slightly sweeter on the palate, more burgundian, very complex and developed, so I thought this to be the 1978 (I was wrong), 97p
20) H. „La Chapelle“ – Jaboulet 1978: I though this to be 1990 Chave (shame on me?), this was more saturated than 17) and 19), perfectly mature, very elegant, a fruitcake with herbs, olives and red sour cherries, sweet very long finish, only the 1990 La Chapelle which I simply think will ultimately surpass it prohibits to give this a perfect rating, 99p
A four course menu was served between the flights, exceptional cuisine by Mustapha (a Tunesian who learned in France and cooked in Belgium before) in the Restaurant „El Fontrussi“ – Reisnerstrasse 1030 Vienna, a hidden traditional Vienniese „Pub“ three minutes behind the Vienna Concert Hall.