1999 Pegau, Pegau, Pegau, Pegau, Pegau Chamelion

WINE TALK
1

Just finished the last bottle of a case of 1999 Pegau Reservee this evening that has probably displayed more bottle variation than any other case that I’ve every owned. Overall, the case has given great pleasure. Tonight’s bottle was muscular and ready to rock, showing a bright, clear, garnet robe, blackfruits and garrigue on the nose and palate and and a precise delineation with plenty of energy to take it another decade or more.

Also in this case were 2-3 bottles with different degrees of equinal properties. The worst was one opened in Park City that displayed the most amazing rendition of Mr Ed on Dulcolax, with fermenting hay on the barn floor accentuating the prickly nose.

Several other bottles were correct, although advanced, providing an acceptable, but disappointing experience.

The balance of the case was as tonight - a great wine, displaying very well with much to come.

I’ve never had this kind of disparity from a single case before (I have another case in waiting). I purchased this case from a reputable auction house 6-7 years ago. Any suggestions on what may be going on? I’m thinking I may have gotten a case representing wines from multiple sources, although the wines and labels look consistent

2

David. It is called Brett. Something the folks at pegau seem to like. I think Laurence was said she likes Brett in young wine. Unfortunately the only way to contain (and I use that loosely w Brett) is to keep the wines really cold. Even the. It is a crapshoot as to when it will blossom and how badly it’ll affect the wine

precisely why I stopped buying pegau even though I love them when I get a clean bottle

3

The horsey stuff is clearly brett. The advanced, not so sure. And the good stuff, none. All of this has been stored in the same temp/humid control since I purchaced. I hope the next case is a solid

4

David. This next post is pure speculation but I do know that pegau bottles when needed so the barrels aren’t blended and bottled in one big batch. So here’s where I speculate. If they bottle by hand or some rudimentary bottling line then you will see lots of variation beyond Brett. Yet another reason I get pissed w rhone wines.

5

Brett is mainly an accident [even if some brett character is considered desirable] of ‘natural’ winemaking and specifically a desire to allow natural yeasts to work by going easy on SO2 usage particularly before and during the winemaking. SO2 is a major control mechanism for brett along with sterile filtration and sterilants like Velcorin.

With ripe grapes the conditions in which the wild brett yeast can participate are enhanced [higher sugars] so that brett products will usually be part of the process and the wine will include some volatile phenols and other brett products.

If filtration is also minimised and no sterilants are used some brett yeast cells can end up in the bottles. This is presumably not intended by the winemaker although they treat it as an acceptable possibility.

The distribution of yeast cells in the wine may be variable so in the bottling process each bottle may not be identically ‘endowed’ so their eventual taste will vary particularly if warm transportation and storage temperatures encourage the remaining cells to develop.

In addition Laurence has confirmed that more than one lot of the 99 Reservee was made although is it likely that bottles from different lots would find their way into the same case? IMO random brett cells are the most likely explanation for the variability.
FWIW the variability of 99 Pegau Reservee has occupied many threads in several US and UK forums.

6

I’d say provenance can be a factor, whether it was due to the flip job, the transport or any number of things that could have happened. eProvenance anyone? [thankyou.gif]

I too get variation in my Peagus, having gone through 04s that have ranged from great to average, many from the same lots… oh well

7

I bought six upon release and just drank the last one a few months ago. I think it was the least enjoyable of the lot, still a decent bottle though. The 99 Pegau drank really well all the way from the start. All of my bottles were somewhat funky, but I expect that from Pegau and would be disappointed if they were not.

FWIW, $23.99 each from the now defunct CWC.

David [drinkers.gif]