I enjoyed a case each of ’59 and ’61 in the 70s and 80s, then never saw it. When a bottle of this showed up on line, I grabbed it, and glad I did!
Ruby color, brick at the edges. Well matured aromas feature very ripe red currants with notes of red cherry and tobacco. The palate is light in body with a reprise of ripe red fruits, more tobacco and a touch of pepper, with a tiny hint of ginger lurking below. The tannins are resolved, the acidity remains fresh, the crushed velvet texture and ripeness show age, but I would have guessed 20 or 30, not 40 years. This is a glorious example of what mid-range Bordeaux can achieve when made the right way in a classic tradition, but I’m sure that this was sullen to brutal until it was at least 10 or more likely 15+. Who is going to continue to make wines this way, because where is the market that will hold them until they are ready?
Bordeaux has to be the coldest place on earth where you can grow great red wine (please do not reply with a post on German Pinot Noir). The corollary is the need for age. I sadly question whether the market for Bordeaux reds below the very top levels will survive.
This is not great wine, but it’s really good. Rated 90.5 tonight, probably 1 - 2 points better 10 years ago.
Dan Kravitz