Yesterday we participated in a Beaune Grèves tasting by Casa del Vino. We started with a 2002 Louis Latour Beaune Grèves Blanc - light yellow-gold in color; flowery white fruit in nose and flavors; stony mid-palate with slightly low acidity; and a medium-long stony fruit finish. It made a pleasant starter for the tasting.
The '96 reds were presented in three flights of three each, and one of two.
First Flight:
Domaine de l’Arlot - light brown-garnet in color initially with a medium brown edge, the color losing a little brownness and darkening garnet with time; initially closed, tight nose and flavors of red and black fruit, opening a little with time; hard mid-palate; and a medium tight finish. The wine gained a little fruit with more time. This was one of only two vintages, '95 & '96, that l’Arlot made from Grèves fruit. I can sort of see why.
Joseph Drouhin - light garnet with a little browning in color with a narrow orange edge, again darkening and losing brownness with time; slightly tight red fruit in nose and flavors, opening and developing more fruit with time; full fruity middle; with a medium long dry fruit finish.
Louis Jadot - darker garnet in color with less browning; rich, slightly strange red fruit in nose and flavors; full middle with a hint of VA; and a long fruity finish.
All three wines were quite cool when presented and needed time to warm and open. The Drouhin was the best of the flight eventually, the odd fruit and VA in the Jadot never quite cleared, and the l’Arlot just never really came around.
Flight 2:
Château Génot-Boulanger - medium garnet in color with a narrow orange edge; initially tight nose, opening with time; good red fruit in flavors; rich middle; and a medium-long fruity finish.
Thomas-Moillard - medium garnet in color with a narrow orange edge; initially a little tight, but opening nicely to rich red fruit in nose and flavors; balanced fruity middle; and a medium long fruity finish.
Bernard Morey - medium garnet in color with a narrow orange edge; rich, full red fruit nose and flavors; a full-bodied, balanced middle; and a long, rich fruity finish.
All three were essentially the same in appearance. The Génot used no new oak, so had brighter fruit, but not as much richness as the others. The Moillard and Morey were different, but both enjoyable.
Flight 3:
Parigot Père et Fils - medium garnet in color with a narrow light orange edge; rich nose and flavors of spicy, flowery red fruit; balanced flowery middle; and a long somewhat light finish.
Remoissenet Père et Fils - medium garnet in color with a very thin light edge; rich nose and flavors of spicy, flowery dark red fruit; rich balanced fruity middle; with a long tight fruit finish.
Bouchard Père et Fils “Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus” - medium garnet in color with a very thin light edge; rich nose and flavors of black and dark red fruit; full, balanced fruity middle; and a very long rich fruit finish.
Flight 4:
Dominique Laurent - dark garnet in color with little lightening of the edge; rough oak overpowering the dark fruit in nose and flavors, rough mid-palate; and a long oaky finish. Hopefully with time the oak will soften and the fruit will come through more.
Albert Morot - dark garnet in color with a thin light edge; rich red and dark fruit in nose and flavors; full fruity mid-palate; and a long fruity finish.
With this tasting, I began to see why so many think Burgundy is a mine-field or those who just don’t get Burgundy. Tasting these took time and concentration / thinking about them. Not a one was “in-your-face” fruit. Though I enjoyed all but the Jadot, whose fruit wasn’t quite right, and the Laurent, which was way too oaky.