Lisbon?

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Ramon C
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Lisbon?

#1 Post by Ramon C » March 1st, 2013, 9:26 am

I'm in Lisbon for a few days starting end of next week.
Already reserved a dinner at Assinatura. Looking for suggestions on restaurants, both fine dining and regional/rustic cusines.
Wine bars?
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Re: Lisbon?

#2 Post by George Hejna » March 1st, 2013, 11:12 am

Ramon - We spent a lot of time at the Wine Bar do Castello. It is up on the hill by the castle in a very touristy area but it is a great little place. Only Portuguese wine, charcuterie, bread and cheese. The owner comes off a little rude at first but he is really good with his wines. He will ask what you want an give you a few to taste to try and figure out your palate and then he will offer many different choices depending on what you want to spend. He has wines from 5-500 Euro a glass. We spent 2 afternoons with him and it was the highlight of Lisbon for us. Before we left he let us taste an 1880 Tawny that was amazing. It is about 6 tables in a 13th century moorish building right on the main street below the castle entrance.

The address is
Rua Bartolomeu de Gusmao n 11/13 1100-078

The cab drivers knew where it was.

Enjoy!

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Re: Lisbon?

#3 Post by Ramon C » March 1st, 2013, 12:18 pm

Thanks George, this is now noted into my travel notes. Thanks for the address too.
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Re: Lisbon?

#4 Post by doug johnson » March 1st, 2013, 7:33 pm

It's been several years since I was there but loved our meals at Restaurante Eleven (http://www.restauranteleven.com/eleven/) and the amazing seafood at Ribadouro (http://www.cervejariaribadouro.pt).

Also enjoyed the Port Wine Institute bar/space in Lisbon...nice selection of Ports and cigars. http://www.ivdp.pt/pagina.asp?idioma=1&codPag=169&

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Re: Lisbon?

#5 Post by Jud Reis » March 2nd, 2013, 8:09 am

Ramon - we had a really fantastic meal at Bocca a couple of years ago - Bocca.pt

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Re: Lisbon?

#6 Post by Ramon C » March 4th, 2013, 5:44 am

Thank you all for the suggestions.

Doug: The Port Institute is now on my agenda.

Jud: Just checked Bocca's website and they indicated that they've closed due to the economic crisis. Thanks anyway.
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Re: Lisbon?

#7 Post by Jud Reis » March 4th, 2013, 6:50 am

Ramon Cabrera wrote:Thank you all for the suggestions.

Doug: The Port Institute is now on my agenda.

Jud: Just checked Bocca's website and they indicated that they've closed due to the economic crisis. Thanks anyway.
Sorry to hear that -it was a very nice family that ran the place...

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Re: Lisbon?

#8 Post by George Hejna » March 4th, 2013, 7:09 am

We heard great things about Belcanto when we were there. We could not get a reservation.

http://www.joseavillez.pt/#/en/belcanto


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Re: Lisbon?

#9 Post by Ramon C » March 5th, 2013, 9:41 am

I saw this Avillez on TV (with Tony Bourdain) and read good things about him. Thanks.
Decided not to book Belcanto as it's too much eating and, instead, reserved at his more casual bistro Cantinho de Avillez.
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Lisbon?

#10 Post by John W Osgood » April 3rd, 2013, 7:07 am

Ramon - please post some feedback on your trip. I am there next month and looking forward to some fresh seafood.
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Lisbon?

#11 Post by Ramon C » April 3rd, 2013, 11:30 am

J,

I'm editing my notes and will post very soon.

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#12 Post by Ramon C » April 6th, 2013, 7:58 am

Never having been to Portugal, but have occasionally dined at Portuguese restaurants at whichever city we happen to be living or travelling in, with each restaurant seemingly having only the bacalhau dish in common, and so I had no clue as to what to expect during our 5-day stay in Lisbon. With some pre-trip online research, we decided during a 5-day trip in mid March, to roll the dice and spend our dining Euros at:

Assinatura
Rua do Vale do Pereiro, 19
1250-270 Lisbon
+351 213 867 696
Our first night’s dinner in the city turned out to be an excellent culinary start. The struggling local economy appears to impact the local high-end dining scene with having just 4 parties in the dining room, in spite of a drizzly Thursday night in Lisbon. While I’m not too crazy about the sort-of minimalist décor with the kitschy-looking landscape photo of the residential hills of Lisbon covering one side of the wall, the overall atmosphere, from the attentive and efficient service, to the wine and elaborate food presentation that came with very knowledgeable explanation by each server, was the saving grace. Opting for the Euro 49 5-course menu, I also requested for the both of us to go with the wine-pairings, but specifically instructed our maître d’ that we will prefer a mix-and-match of the frescos e jovens (young and fresh) with the elegantes e evoluidos (elegant and mature) wines, as opposed to picking just one category as indicated on their menu. As my Portuguese wine knowledge is close to zero, my decision to rely on their sommelier to guide our food-and wine-pairing destiny was to say the least, a successful one, especially as I was given the opportunity to sample wines prior to pouring for each pairing. Other than what is shown in my iPhone photos, I’m not able to recall the exact nature of each dish we had, but am happy to say this was one of the highlight meals during our stay in Lisbon. I will say that the fish dishes are the ones that are embedded more in my happy memories. As opposed to a restaurant that creates modern dishes that are fitted in with local/regional infusion, I’m happy to note that Assinatura’s are based on Portuguese classics that are effectively executed with a creative modern twist, all without seemingly losing authenticity and regionalism. I heartily recommend Assinatura for a “splurge” meal in Lisbon. If I may state, by New York City standard, this is 4-star dining at 2-star pricing. As is always in line with my travel-eating creed, it’s always a good practice to reserve in advance.

Cervejaria Ramiro
Av. Almirante Reis 1-H,
1150-007 Lisboa
+351 218 851 024
So, New York City’s own great traveler/former chef/writer/visionary/sage Anthony Bourdain had a blast in this restaurant, or so he claims in his popular TV travel and food program. For once, he got one right. A traditional Lisbon cervejaria, in a grungy locals neighborhood, and complete with hurried and slightly brusque serving staff, who will quickly wipe away shellfish remnants from your table half of which would end in the wiping rag, the other half onto the restaurant floor. They’ll rightly start you off with the local azeitao sheep’s milk cheese and toasted buttered Portuguese half-buns. Then we followed-up with the very fresh grilled sweet large tiger prawns and the unforgettable steamed whole meaty crab served cracked with the large shell containing the crab fat-and-roe mixture. YUM! For dessert, go for the traditional Prego or fried steak sandwich on a Portuguese bun. Priceless. All washed down with very good local beers, and I recommend going for the Super Bock over rival brand of Sagres. The bill can add up (not by much), but who cares, especially as one enjoys the freshest and tastiest seafood this side of the Atlantic. Very highly recommended.

Cervejaria da Esquina
Rua Correia Teles 56,
1350-102 Lisboa
+351 213 874 644
Located in a residential neighborhood, just about a 20-minute cab ride from the city center, this restaurant provides a modern take on the Portuguese cervejaria experience. The modern setting, with the clean, sleek appointments, and a refined friendly wait staff, added to an overall very pleasant dining experience. In addition to beers, there are plenty of Portuguese wines by the glass and by the bottle, which by now we’ve established that ordering wines in local restaurants is one of the easiest thing on the dining wallet as they are tremendously cheap by any Western European or North American standards. With a bottle of a Douro white and a couple of glasses of Alentejo reds, we both enjoyed our shared dishes of excellent and very juicy Razor Clams and one of the best, if not the best, fresh tuna sandwich I’ve eaten. Just as we see in most traditional cervejaria in the city, there are aquariums with the live large crabs and local lobsters, and also displayed iced cases of the humongous prawns, but we opted not to duplicate our same-day lunch success at Ramiro by not ordering similar dishes. We finally ended with a lip-smacking slice of their home-made flan pudding, complemented with a small cup of a very graceful, not the in-your-face kind, of Portuguese coffee. After a quick but careful deliberation, we decided to do a repeat meal here with our last lunch in Lisbon (over Ramiro), but regretfully unable to do so due to unforeseen airport transfer issues. We will definitely repeat on our next Lisbon visit, whenever that may be. A very popular restaurant with locals and advanced reservation is definitely required.

Winebar do Castello
Rua Bartolomeu de Gusmao 11/13
1100-000 Lisboa
+351 962 928 956
It’s up there at the visible-from-everywhere-Lisbon hill of Castelo Sao Jorge. A bit dingy of a neighborhood, but I also thought it has its old Lisbon charms. We didn’t want a big dinner and decided to do a light one with finger foods, while sampling local wines. A very small cozy winebar with old wooden tables and rustic surroundings, about 7 to 8 tables, and with more than 150 local wines available by the glass. I continually engaged our wait staff to help me with sample tastes and explanations on the available wines prior to ordering my next glass. Very accommodating and attentive staff. The mix platter of sliced local Iberico ham, sausages and cheeses, with the usual delicious Portuguese bread, was enough to tide us over for dinner. Add to that about 4 glasses each of different wines, plus a complimentary shot of a 20-year old tawny port, this place made our night. I recommend to anyone who’d want to expand their Portuquese wine horizon. A 10 to 15-minute cab ride from city center.

Casa da Bifana
Martim Moniz, Lisboa
Looks like a very busy American diner in setting. A counter with stools, all occupied by folks chomping on fried pork wedged between an open soft Portuguese roll. A dish that we wanted to try, in supposedly a place that houses the best kind, and I thought it was just ho hum. For anyone craving for this so-called Portuguese staple sandwich, I suggest researching harder for a better place that makes ‘em.

Pasteis de Belem
Rua Belem 34
1300 Lisbon
The area of Belem is a good 30-minute commute from the city center. The pasteis is a creamy-eggy-custardy goodness encased in a flakey, warm-from-the-oven pastry that resembles a tart. The bake shop houses an enormous very busy restaurant that appears to serve nothing but egg tarts and coffee (or tea) to hundreds of patrons, most of which are tourists. It definitely is worth it to make the trek to Belem, with plenty of good cheap transportation options in the city, to check out the Monasterio do Jeronimos, a very fine example of late Gothic architecture. But to go to Belem just for this, I think I’ll pass. The tarts are pretty much available at every street corner coffee shop in Lisbon, with each advertising/touting how good theirs are.

Cantinho do Avillez
Rua Duques de Braganca 7
1200-162 Lisboa
+351 211 992 369
Our last dinner in Lisbon. It wasn’t the meal of the trip, but just as with the other ones, we were satisfied with our experience. I finally had the national dish-ingredient of bacalhau and it definitely proved to be better than any that I’ve had anywhere. Fresh-tasting moist flaked cod mixed with the very delicious potatoes, eggs and plump cooked olive, the dish was a delight. With smiling and friendly service, this bistro-type establishment also serves a good hamburger-with-foie-gras and a side of good fries, geared for those who have been here long enough to start craving something from home. Just as I did in other restaurants, I politely engage our wait-staff into having us sample first anything we order by the glass. They’re more than willing to oblige and were eager to provide useful information about their wines. I’d go back just to sample the prego steak sandwiches and other more local “bistro” dishes that this restaurant seems to be good at. Extremely popular and so, advanced reservation is a definite must.

Super Mario
Rua do Duque 9
1200-158 Lisboa
Our last meal in Portugal, a prelude to a few days in Paris, was lunch in a restaurant called Super Mario, a tasca, or through googling, a “cheap eating place”. Filled to capacity, Super Mario happens to be most popular among the local workers, neighbors and business people who all seem to know one another, in the Chiado neighborhood. It was quite a very happy, and to say the least, interesting, ending to our culinary adventure in Lisbon. Wandering around the neighborhood, prior to heading off to the airport in the afternoon, we walked in and were ushered to our seats, as the wait staff politely urged a solo dining patron busily gorging on his meal to scoot over one seat so that Marina and I can sit face-to-face in one of the communal tables in this capacity-filled, tightly-spaced, 40-seater family run restaurant. The menu appears to change by the day, depending on the fresh available market buys. Today’s menu, as displayed in Portuguese, hand-written with felt pen on a large white piece of paper taped on one of the wall included a grilled fish dish, a fried fish dish and a large bowl containing something that resembled the French pot-a-feu and which 75% of today’s diners opted for. With a refreshing cold bottle of their most expensive Vinho Verde (Euro 9), we started with a shared plate of the azeitao cheese with some soft Portuguese rolls, until our order of the fried fish steaks and the grilled larger chunk of fish, a different variety from the fried one, arrived and each was simply served with sides of boiled but tasty potatoes, rice and some fresh lettuce-tomatoes. We were smiling throughout our meal as we chomped on our fish dishes. These were sooooo good. We went with the very light and airy flan dessert that everybody else had, and were also comped a shot each of the house port to finish off our meal. It was the best home-cooked meal that I’ve had in a while, and certainly a memorable one at that. For twenty-two Euro total for an excellent local fare, we did very well here.
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Lisbon?

#13 Post by George Hejna » April 6th, 2013, 8:07 am

Nice report and some good meals. I am glad you enjoyed Winebar do Castello.

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Lisbon?

#14 Post by Ramon C » April 8th, 2013, 10:46 am

A pleasant surprise, indeed. Thanks for the heads up on the Winebar do Castello, George.

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#15 Post by John W Osgood » April 17th, 2013, 7:40 pm

Thanks for the detailed notes. They will come in quite handy as I will be there in two weeks. Will report back with some brief thoughts after the trip.
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#16 Post by John W Osgood » May 9th, 2013, 9:37 am

Thanks again for your notes Ramon and George. They were quite helpful during my recent stay in Lisbon. A few brief thoughts below on the highlights of my visit:

Winebar do Castello - this place was excellent and easily the best wine bar we visited in the entire country. The owners were a bit cool at first but really opened up after some conversation. The amount of aged wines by the glass was truly astounding and very enjoyable. We came here nightly.

Cervejaria Ramiro - I have been dying to come here since seeing this on No Reservations and it did not disappoint. We got very lucky by arriving for dinner early as the crowd waiting for tables was enormous by the time we left. The seating for those waiting seemed very disorganized. The food was top-notch. Amazing clams, grilled shrimp and steak sandwich. The tiger prawns were other worldly. Never tasted Tiger Prawns close to this quality. Beers went great with the seafood although we also had a bottle of Vino Verde. Top-notch experience.

Cantinho do Avilllez - Very fun meal at this bustling bistro. Highlights were the steak sandwich and the foie gras burger. All the small plates were very good. We tried to go back a second time to sample the rest of the menu but were told it was fully booked. Instead we went to the chef's new pizza joint down the street. That was quite nice too.

Bonjardim - Roasted chicken on the spit splattered with the house hot sauce was delicious. Great little spot to sit outside on a sunny afternoon. Tucked just off the restaurant walking street.

Caso do Alentejo - Also located off the restaurant walking street but once you climb the stairs into this old building it is like you are transported into an old Moorish castle. The architecture is really amazing. The food is based on the hearty cuisine of the Alentejo region. We had the grilled lamb special which was delicious with a bottle of rustic Alentejo red wine. Prices are absurdly cheap.

Port Wine Institute - What should be a great place is marred by pitiful customer service. The waitstaff is downright unfriendly and disappears for longs stretches of time. Good luck trying to place your order or request your bill. Ports by the glass were great though and the selection is large. Pricing is good too.
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Lisbon?

#17 Post by Ramon C » May 13th, 2013, 8:25 am

Thanks for the updage on your trip J. Good to see common positive experiences in the restaurants that we went to. Also good to know about Caso do Alentejo. I'll note down it for next time.
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#18 Post by George Hejna » May 13th, 2013, 11:06 am

J Osgood wrote:Thanks again for your notes Ramon and George. They were quite helpful during my recent stay in Lisbon. A few brief thoughts below on the highlights of my visit:

Winebar do Castello - this place was excellent and easily the best wine bar we visited in the entire country. The owners were a bit cool at first but really opened up after some conversation. The amount of aged wines by the glass was truly astounding and very enjoyable. We came here nightly.
Glad you enjoyed. We had the exact same experience as you. I think he gets a lot of people coming down from the castle and he truly enjoys teaching people about wine so he gets a little picky with his customers.

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Re: Lisbon?

#19 Post by Sherri S h a p i r o » August 23rd, 2018, 11:04 am

Bumping this thread - lots of great info here and in some other threads, but wondering about more recent visits? Planning a few days in early October in Portugal (most likely Lisbon/Sintra) as an adjunct to visiting my daughter, who is studying in Madrid for the semester.
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Re: Lisbon?

#20 Post by J. D'Antonio » August 24th, 2018, 5:00 am

I had a great meal at 100 Maneiras in November. Tasting menu only at the restaurant in Bairro Alto, I think it's a steal for 60 Euro. I don't usually do pairings, but due to my short stay, I did the reserve pairings and got to have some small production wines with some solid age - both whites and reds.

The bistro is a la carte, and is at a different location.

Manteigaria, in my opinion, has the best pasteis de nata (Portugese custard tarts) - better than Belem for me. The Time Out Market is a must as you can get some tasty eats there from some of the chefs.
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Re: Lisbon?

#21 Post by J. D'Antonio » August 24th, 2018, 5:13 am

BTW, 100 Maneiras is a tiny room - only 30 seats or so. Be sure to have a reservation.

I stayed at a gorgeous little boutique hotel called LX Boutique Hotel and loved the place. Best rates by booking directly on their website. I highly recommend it.
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Re: Lisbon?

#22 Post by Andrew Kotowski » August 24th, 2018, 12:17 pm

I second (and third) https://cantinhodoavillez.pt/en/ - Food was great and we pulled it off with four kids (including twin 5 yr olds). I've sent several people there and they've been thrilled.

We couldn't get into Cervejaria Ramiro, but it was a constant recommendation from everybody ranging from our VRBO owner to the taxi driver.

Definitely worth a visit to Time Out Lisbon for lunch, and it was walking distance from the water, iirc.

Finally, I tend to agree with Ramon re: Pasteis de Belem. Don't get me wrong; the pastries are fantastic... but they're everywhere in Lisbon. You'll end up taking the tram line 30 minutes out (or taxi, of course) to wait in line and shuffle through like cattle for a box of pastries. If you go out, make sure to hit the Cloister of Jeronimos Monastery, which is pretty cool.

For what it's worth, guided tours there are pretty cool and you can easily pick one up in front of the Lisbon Cathedral (the Se) and run 15-20 euros for an hour, again iirc. Definitely appreciated it a bit more than normal, given the up-and-down nature of Lisbon, especially with 1,000,000,000 cobblestones. I swear, Lisbon gets my award for "most likely to break an ankle in" city. Have a blast!
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Re: Lisbon?

#23 Post by alan weinberg » August 25th, 2018, 7:53 am

Lisbon--great city--makes SF look flat, it's a city of 7 hills and the stone sidewalks are slippery. Don't drive in the city--crazy rules, lanes, and drivers. Taxis are cheap. Take a Tuk-Tuk ride and tour. People are very friendly, prices great, food better than Spain. We stayed in a great location, a small hotel called Valverde, knowledgeable staff and great air conditioning. In Chiado (area of Lisbon), there is a glove store called Lucaria Ulisses worth visiting, there since 1925 and amazing leather gloves and service. Coffee shops and bookstores are there, a fun area. Super restaurants near Valverde--one called Sommelier, has very good food and a super Portuguese wine list, most available by the glass. Speakeasy called Red Frog was fun, had an excellent drink there several nights. Solar dos Presuntos is a must--should have gone there twice--classic Portuguese restaurant, cheese, olives, ham, had delicious kid. JNçquoi, pronounced je ne sais quoi, was excellent--lots of natives eating there, definitely worth lunch or dinner. Largo had good Portuguese food and is known for martinis--roast pork excellent. Michelin 2 star Belcanto had very good food, disappointing wine list and wine service, decor very simple. Visit "Time out Market" and eat their Pasteis de Nata, better than any others and worth eating several. Try and buy some Ginja sem rival, a cherry liqueur. Spend a day in Sintra, amazing and 25 miles from Lisbon. Great city!

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Re: Lisbon?

#24 Post by Sherri S h a p i r o » August 25th, 2018, 11:19 am

Thanks guys! Alan - definitely doing a day in Sintra!

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Re: Lisbon?

#25 Post by bradkaplan » August 25th, 2018, 12:16 pm

Was there this summer - had excellent dinners at Alma (1 star Michelin) and Taberna de las Ruas Flores (no reservations, get there early to get in line). Was honestly underwhelmed by Ramiro - good, not great. Sintra is definitely worth the day trip - and you can stop nearby at Viuva Gomes to taste some of the 1969 Colares (plus their very nice current vintages).
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Re: Lisbon?

#26 Post by Eric Ifune » August 25th, 2018, 4:32 pm

BA Wine Bar. Bairro Alta.
It's a seriously geeky Portuguese wine bar. But it's tiny and reservations are a must. I was lucky and there was a last minute cancellation so I got in, but in the two hours I was there, over a dozen groups were sent away. Reservations can be made online at bawinebar@gmail.com. Tel 351 21 3461 182. They open at 6 pm. A lot of wines from all regions in Portugal and some old ones as well. The only food available are charcuterie, cheeses, the famous canned Portuguese seafood. The only hot food is grilled sausages. You can get an entire tour of Portuguese wines there. I managed to talk the proprietor into selling me a bottle of the 1992 Herdade do Mouchao to take home. I also met the owner of Knight's Valley Vineyard there who was traveling though Portugal.

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Re: Lisbon?

#27 Post by Mont Stern » August 29th, 2018, 1:12 pm

In addition, it is worth a taxi or Uber to go to Feitoria in the hotel in the Altis Belem Hotel. The tasting menu was amazing.
http://www.restaurantefeitoria.com/

Another aspect of travel to Portugal and Spain is that high quality shoes are a major bargain. For Portugese shoes, go to Sapataria do Carmo.
https://www.sapatariadocarmo.com/?locale=en
If you want the big department store, El Corte Ingles has a great selection of European shoes and if not going to Mallorca, they carry Carmina which are a must buy for shoe geeks and Georges Handmade shoes. If you price bench made shoes from England, Hungary and Italy the amazing value speaks for itself.
https://www.elcorteingles.pt/

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Re: Lisbon?

#28 Post by alan weinberg » October 14th, 2018, 10:39 am


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Re: Lisbon?

#29 Post by edward bowers » October 15th, 2018, 7:16 am

Agree with The Port wine Institute. Great variety and very comfortable without any rush

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Re: Lisbon?

#30 Post by Marshall Gelb » January 27th, 2019, 11:44 am

Bringing this back up to the top.....We will be there in late May. Any new information including hotels would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance! grouphug

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Re: Lisbon?

#31 Post by Ted Erfer » January 27th, 2019, 2:11 pm

Marshall Gelb wrote:
January 27th, 2019, 11:44 am
Bringing this back up to the top.....We will be there in late May. Any new information including hotels would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance! grouphug

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And we are going in October --- so a "refresh" would be great.
Restaurants and hotels.

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Re: Lisbon?

#32 Post by Eric Ifune » January 29th, 2019, 10:25 am

If interested in Moscatel de Setubal, go to By the Wine, the wine bar run by Jose Maria da Fonseca in the Chiado district. Can get their entire lineup by the glass. Also the myriad table wines by JM Fonseca, many of which are excellent. I had an afternoon by myself and was indulging in a vertical of their higher end Moscatels and Roxo. (Roxo is the purple Moscatel) The CEO of JM Fonseca was entertaining clients and introduced himself to me and we chatted for a bit over a glass of wine.

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Mont Stern
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Re: Lisbon?

#33 Post by Mont Stern » February 1st, 2019, 7:23 am

https://www.portobay.com/en/hotels/lisb ... liberdade/

Fancy meal
http://www.restaurantefeitoria.com/
Cheaper meal
https://geral24128.wixsite.com/cervejar ... copia-home

Don't forget one of the best bargains in Portugal. High quality shoes are cheaper than other places.
https://sapatariadocarmo.com/
If you aren't going to Spain, El Corte Ingles has their top brands such as Carmina. US stores that sell Carmina literally double the price to place it against comparable quality from elsewhere.
http://www.elcorteingles.pt/

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Re: Lisbon?

#34 Post by Jim Marmion » February 6th, 2019, 6:20 am

No doubt a fairly standard recommendation, but don't fail to go to the Gulbenkian. Pieces amassed by a great collector who had very deep pockets. Most are quite exquisite.

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Re: Lisbon?

#35 Post by John Chapman » May 14th, 2019, 1:21 pm

We're heading to Portugal in September, a few days in Lisbon, then Coimbra and surrounds, then Porto and surrounds. I've been reading the great food suggestions, how about any highly recommended places to stay...from rustic up through five star? Thanks.

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Re: Lisbon?

#36 Post by Eric Ifune » May 14th, 2019, 4:26 pm

Tourism is booming in Porto and Lisbon. Need reservations for lodging quite a period beforehand unlike just a few years ago.

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Julius L
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Re: Lisbon?

#37 Post by Julius L » June 3rd, 2019, 12:56 pm

My wife and I stayed (5 nights) at the Hotel Avenida Palace back in March. Enjoyed our stay - very nice room, very helpful staff, excellent breakfast, great location. I recommend it.

https://www.hotelavenidapalace.pt/en/hotel-in-lisbon
L = L@$Øff

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Re: Lisbon?

#38 Post by George Hejna » June 3rd, 2019, 1:58 pm

TAP just launched non-stops from O'hare to Lisbon on their new A330Neo. Time to go back. :)

George

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Re: Lisbon?

#39 Post by Michael Klein » June 5th, 2019, 4:19 pm

George Hejna wrote:
June 3rd, 2019, 1:58 pm
TAP just launched non-stops from O'hare to Lisbon on their new A330Neo. Time to go back. :)

George
Been waiting for this! Need to go back as well. Super convenient now with this direct option.

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Re: Lisbon?

#40 Post by Mark Thompson » July 2nd, 2019, 5:56 am

George Hejna wrote:
June 3rd, 2019, 1:58 pm
TAP just launched non-stops from O'hare to Lisbon on their new A330Neo. Time to go back. :)

George
We had a stressful connection in Boston last year when we took the kiddos. A direct flight would have been awesome given that we live 25m from ORD. And I’d love to go back!

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Re: Lisbon?

#41 Post by David K o l i n » July 2nd, 2019, 6:04 am

John Chapman wrote:
May 14th, 2019, 1:21 pm
We're heading to Portugal in September, a few days in Lisbon, then Coimbra and surrounds, then Porto and surrounds. I've been reading the great food suggestions, how about any highly recommended places to stay...from rustic up through five star? Thanks.
We just returned and stayed in a bright and very comfortable 2 bedroom on the water in Alfama through VRBO.

Can’t wait to go back

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Re: Lisbon?

#42 Post by Joshua Kates » July 26th, 2019, 1:33 am

In Lisbon now, so I thought I'd add some info.
BA Wine Bar
We went last night to BA (Bairro Alto) Wine Bar, recommended by Eric (Ifune) and others in a different thread. Absolutely fantastic experience; the proprietor is immensely knowledgeable and eagerly pulls bottles, offers advice, and gives tastes. (We ended up drinking 3 whites, 1 Baga, and 1 Mouchau, the 2002, since Eric had bought the sole 1992). The food--charcuterie and fish they tin themselves--is also fantastic, but you do have to reserve in advance.

Loco
A one star in Estrela. Right now they offer only one menu of 17 "momentos." The first half, the self-declared appetizers, was very strong: from the lovely fresh chopped oyster in herb sauce preparation to the mini meat pie. Food wobbled a bit in second half, especially as they go back to fish, throwing the wine accompaniment off a bit--we were already on to the red. Somm is great; the staff nice; there is a little bit of self-righteousness, however, about their "no food waste" policy, which somehow accounted for their running out of their much talked up chocolate dessert, before it was our turn to get some. It's a lovely, small room, and I'd nevertheless go back if I were staying in the area.

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Re: Lisbon?

#43 Post by Eric Ifune » July 28th, 2019, 3:47 pm

1 Mouchau, the 2002, since Eric had bought the sole 1992
Hey, I'm trying to build a vertical. flirtysmile

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Re: Lisbon?

#44 Post by Marshall Gelb » July 29th, 2019, 3:49 pm

As far as hotels, we loved the Corinthia. Not in the older section of town but still very convenient and FWIW, very easy to get to and from airport.


Cheers!
Marshall
A quién tiene buen vino no le faltan amigos.

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Re: Lisbon?

#45 Post by Joshua Kates » August 1st, 2019, 5:03 pm

Eric Ifune wrote:
July 28th, 2019, 3:47 pm
1 Mouchau, the 2002, since Eric had bought the sole 1992
Hey, I'm trying to build a vertical. flirtysmile
No problem, Eric,

You were the one who recommended BA to me in the first place; I'm in your debt.

I will also mention here Belcanto for those travelling to Lisbon. Considered by many the premier "fancy" Lisbon restaurant, it really came through as far as we were concerned. We had the "evolution" menu, which entails a good deal of molecular gastronomy, but it was always to good effect, not just to show off. Along with that, the absolute freshness and purity of the ingredients were remarkable. Best "big shrimp" we had all visit, with head cooked separately in a salt/beetroot shell. Perfectly cooked and delicious squab was the meat course (which we requested) and the cuttlefish chocolate dessert (choco-chocolate, choco being the name for cuttlefish in Portuguese) was a surprise that was mindblowingly successful.

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