Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

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Sh@n A
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Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#1 Post by Sh@n A » April 22nd, 2019, 10:01 pm

Sincerely appreciate thoughts and advice for restaurant selection that have reasonably accessible wine lists. I will be the only one drinking and have the opportunity for 4 dinners with wine... my significant other is joining, but is not drinking. For context, (i) I am the only one drinking, (ii) prefer red Burgundy/northern rhone (no whites), (iii) will only be allowed ~1 bottle per day, (iv) this would be my first trip to Paris where I will be more focused on the wine list (as a 'rookie'). I'm also a 'rookie', albeit with a reasonable budget of 75-250 euro per bottle (sweet spot is in the middle). We prefer non-Michelin dining experiences. We are staying in the 11th (if that matters). Below is a crack at an itinerary, borrowing heavily from other threads.

Day 1 (Thu):
Arrive red eye.
Lunch: L'Arperge (1:30PM reservation) + Rodin Museum [TBD wine depends on price and whether I got any sleep]
Dinner: Casual (Miznon/La Villaret/Vantre) [TBD wine depends on whether I got any sleep]

Day 2 (Fri):
Lunch: La Cagouille (skip wine)
Dinner: Willi's Wine Bar (buy a bottle of wine)

Day 3 (Sat):
Lunch: Miznon (wife wants falafels once, skip wine)
Dinner: Clown Bar (buy a bottle of wine)

Day 4 (Sun):
Lunch: Les Enfants du Marche (skip wine)
Dinner: Vantre (buy a bottle of wine)

It seems people believe reasonable tariff wines may be obtained at Willi and Vantre (although I have not seen a wine list at either, and don't know where else to go for 'Tampa steakhouse' pricing). Not sure if I should consider Clown Bar "wine friendly" and swap it to lunch, in lieu for a more wine friendly dinner spot. Definitely want to hit La Cagouille with the wife for a top notch seafood experience, and as I don't drink whites/champs figured better to do this for a lunch and skip wine.

Other spots I have read in other threads that would be of interest:
Le Petit Verdot
Septime (need to get the reservation)
CAM Export/Import

Again, thank you for thoughts

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#2 Post by Alan Rath » April 22nd, 2019, 10:28 pm

Love Septime. BTG can be a great way to go as well as a single drinker. 110 de Taillevent has some excellent btg selections and outstanding food.
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#3 Post by Craig G » April 22nd, 2019, 11:02 pm

You can drink a bunch of Cognac at La Cagouille since you don’t drink white :-)
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#4 Post by G. Greenbaum » April 26th, 2019, 11:19 pm

I'm in Paris now. Not sure when you're coming but CAM is closing for about 2 weeks starting today. We had a fantastic dinner at Rigmarole. We went with the 69 euro tasting. They also have excellent wines, mostly natural. Trying out Au Passage and Grand Bain in the next few days. Wine prices are a pleasant surprise in France compared to the states. The 11th is lively with tons of restaurants, bar a vin and people everywhere. Enjoy your trip.
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Mont Stern
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#5 Post by Mont Stern » April 27th, 2019, 5:45 am

If you are into Burgundy I would suggest Les Climats.
http://lesclimats.fr/

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#6 Post by J. D'Antonio » April 27th, 2019, 8:45 am

G. Greenbaum wrote:
April 26th, 2019, 11:19 pm
I'm in Paris now. Not sure when you're coming but CAM is closing for about 2 weeks starting today. We had a fantastic dinner at Rigmarole. We went with the 69 euro tasting. They also have excellent wines, mostly natural. Trying out Au Passage and Grand Bain in the next few days. Wine prices are a pleasant surprise in France compared to the states. The 11th is lively with tons of restaurants, bar a vin and people everywhere. Enjoy your trip.
Yes, CAM reopens on May 8th.
futronic
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#7 Post by IlkkaL » April 28th, 2019, 12:26 am

Too many good options I suppose. I assume you have read my fairly recent report here on a few days spent in Paris and Lyon in last December so I don't wish to repeat myself other than say that if it is "wine friendly" you are looking for then you should really consider Le Petit Sommelier.
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Francois Olivier
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#8 Post by Francois Olivier » April 28th, 2019, 6:27 am

L'arpege will be expensive in my opinion

Another suggestion le petit sommelier (https://www.lepetitsommelier-paris.fr/)

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#9 Post by Sh@n A » April 28th, 2019, 12:36 pm

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Last edited by Sh@n A on April 28th, 2019, 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#10 Post by Sh@n A » April 28th, 2019, 12:39 pm

Francois Olivier wrote:
April 28th, 2019, 6:27 am
L'arpege will be expensive in my opinion

Another suggestion le petit sommelier (https://www.lepetitsommelier-paris.fr/)
Arpege will be after red eye and likely no major wine purchase. It’s also for the spouse.

Thanks for the suggestion.
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#11 Post by Magno González » May 6th, 2019, 5:36 pm

Mont Stern wrote:
April 27th, 2019, 5:45 am
If you are into Burgundy I would suggest Les Climats.
http://lesclimats.fr/
I second that. Also try Saturne and YARD !

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#12 Post by Kelly Walker » May 6th, 2019, 10:32 pm

La Cagouille no wine? This time of year they have the Chablis fest. Raveneau and Dauvissat at reasonable prices with buttered razor clams. No-brainer!
White wines matter

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#13 Post by Sarah Kirschbaum » May 7th, 2019, 4:12 am

Kelly Walker wrote:
May 6th, 2019, 10:32 pm
La Cagouille no wine? This time of year they have the Chablis fest. Raveneau and Dauvissat at reasonable prices with buttered razor clams. No-brainer!
The OP is one of the chromatically challenged, red only. It's tragic.

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#14 Post by lsmorris » May 7th, 2019, 7:56 am

Sh@n A wrote:
April 28th, 2019, 12:39 pm
Francois Olivier wrote:
April 28th, 2019, 6:27 am
L'arpege will be expensive in my opinion

Another suggestion le petit sommelier (https://www.lepetitsommelier-paris.fr/)
Arpege will be after red eye and likely no major wine purchase. It’s also for the spouse.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Best possible reason to go. It's great but is eye-wateringly expensive. Coming of a red-eye would be crap for me because I don't sleep well on planes, but it is an experience, and Passard is a charmer.
Laurence

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#15 Post by Kelly Walker » May 7th, 2019, 9:04 am

Sarah Kirschbaum wrote:
May 7th, 2019, 4:12 am
Kelly Walker wrote:
May 6th, 2019, 10:32 pm
La Cagouille no wine? This time of year they have the Chablis fest. Raveneau and Dauvissat at reasonable prices with buttered razor clams. No-brainer!
The OP is one of the chromatically challenged, red only. It's tragic.
Tragic indeed! mmmmm...razor clams and Chablis
White wines matter

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#16 Post by Sh@n A » May 7th, 2019, 10:35 pm

Thank you all for great suggestions! Unfortunately many of them are not open on Sat/Sun, which is a bummer (it is such a long list of great suggestions). I even moved La Cougille to Saturday evening as a result (I figured Petit Sommelier to similar to Sunday's dinner, "Les 101" may not be relaxed enough for a Sat night, Les Climats unfortunately out of budget, and cancelled Clown Bar reservation because veal brain isn't my groups thing).

Seriously I looked at so many restaurants I would like to visit, but cannot on such a short trip: Les 101, Les Climats, Saturne, Papillon, Mr T, Peit Sommelier, Au Passage, Verjus, etc. I am not sure I can even hit all the wine shops I listed below. Anyone know if Semilla/Clover Green or another restaurant in St. Germaine is open to bringing a bottle from a local wine shop to lunch? Makes it so much easier to buy something from a local wineshop to consume immediately.

Revised below and open to suggestions, thank you!


Thu May 23: Red Eye
==========================================
Lunch: 1PM L'Aperget (vege tasting) 1:00PM
Light Dinner: TBD (low key Falafel or Juveniles Wine Bar or Ambassade de Bourgogne)

Fri May 24: St. Germaine / Marais
==========================================
St. Germaine
Wine stores Wine Store: La Dernière Goutte (10am-8pm, sun 10am-7pm)
Wine Store/Bar: Ambassade de Bourgogne (10am-12am, sun 12pm-12am)
Lunch: 12:30PM @ Semilla or Clover Green [would be cool if they had a cork fee to bring something from Abasassade]

Marais
Snack option Les Enfants du Marche
Dinner: 9PM @ Vantre

Sat May 25: Picnic
==========================================
Lunch: Picnic in Tuilleries Gardens (buy a bottle from Legrand Filles et Fils or Lavinia)
Dinner: 7PM @ La Cougille
After Dinner: Aspirationally to Juveniles, Willis or Ambassade de Bourgogne

Sun May 26: Open
==========================================
Dinner: 9:00PM @ Le Comptoir du Relais (no reservations, a la carte menu)
/ @ g r @ \

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#17 Post by IlkkaL » May 8th, 2019, 4:03 am

It's actually on Saturday that you should visit La Dernière Goutte as that's when they have free casual wine tasting with visiting winemakers. You just might end up chatting with someone like Jean Gonon or André Ostertag while tasting their wines.
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#18 Post by Andrew Kotowski » May 11th, 2019, 7:12 pm

Check out Paris by Mouth for Sunday restaurants. I drug Mike Grammer out to one of them and it was great.

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#19 Post by Francois Olivier » May 19th, 2019, 7:57 am

> Wine Store: La Dernière Goutte (10am-8pm, sun 10am-7pm)
It's a good address. Good selection of wine like henry germain (but i am now allocataire), ogier, ...

>Lavinia :

Sorry to say that but only chinese tourist go now to Lavinia ( boulevard de la madelaine paris 8th)
Prices are horrible ( double than every winemerchant in Paris).
And oh bizarre, half salers are chinese...

Caves Legrand is charming, "galerie vivienne" is charming too and it's near palais
royal's garden / no so far of le louvres.

Another restaurant that i like it : l'ardoise, 28 rue du mont thabor ( street between faubourg saint honoré and boulevard de rivoly and jardin des tuileries) But i heard that owner has changed

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#20 Post by Robert Dentice » May 20th, 2019, 12:19 pm

My last two meals at L'Arpege were horrible. The wine service was terrible.

Based on your posts you seem to value a good wine deal over great food? I could be wrong. Why don't you do a lunch at Tour d'Argent? If it is very reasonable for lunch and you can get great wine within budget.

For Sunday I would suggest Le Rigmorale (reservations needed far in advance), Clamato or Clown Bar.

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#21 Post by Jay Miller » May 20th, 2019, 1:14 pm

Robert Dentice wrote:
May 20th, 2019, 12:19 pm
My last two meals at L'Arpege were horrible. The wine service was terrible.
Wow, so sorry to hear this. It's usually my "splurge" restaurant when in Paris and it never disappointed but I haven't been in 4 years or so.
Ripe fruit isn't necessarily a flaw.

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#22 Post by Robert Dentice » May 20th, 2019, 1:45 pm

Jay Miller wrote:
May 20th, 2019, 1:14 pm
Robert Dentice wrote:
May 20th, 2019, 12:19 pm
My last two meals at L'Arpege were horrible. The wine service was terrible.
Wow, so sorry to hear this. It's usually my "splurge" restaurant when in Paris and it never disappointed but I haven't been in 4 years or so.
Most recent meal was January 2018 so about a year and a half.

We wanted to start with a white burg and all of the choices were from recent bad vintages. I asked the somm about a wine I did not know and she described it as light and natural.

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#23 Post by Joshua Kates » May 20th, 2019, 5:18 pm

If you are thinking of punting L'Arpege, I would definitely consider David Toutain, best meal we had in Paris, with a serious but reasonable list. Also, Les Climats, a little picked over, but all Burgundy all the time (both one stars fwiw).

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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#24 Post by Sh@n A » May 20th, 2019, 8:52 pm

Not punting L'Arpeget, it's a request from the spouse and I am curious for the vegetarian tasting myself (I sometimes find vegetarian tasting menus to be more interesting than the meat eaters). I had a reservation at Clown Bar but cancelled on the menu, it is not the best fit for our group (and I am not the most adventurous to try fried veal brain... not only because I am trying to reduce my meat intake these days!). Rigmarole had no reservations unfortunately. Climat and Tour d'Argent too pricey for the guests joining us on the days of their availability, but I did look at both wine lists. I will like I will also get my wine fix by buying bottles from the stores I have reached out to -- I can purchase wine a lot cheaper (in some cases) than here in the US -- and have already reserved up two cases (!).

The current line up is:
L'Aperget (lunch)
Willis (maybe, dinner)
Clover Green (lunch)
Vantre (dinner)
Les 110 de Taillevent or La Cougille (lunch)
Semilla (dinner)
Picnic (lunch)
Le Comptoir du Relais (dinner)

Thank you for all the suggestions. Will respond back with thoughts on another thread and won't promise not to provide point scores alongside them!
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Re: Paris itinerary / wine accessible restaurants

#25 Post by Andrew Kotowski » May 20th, 2019, 10:41 pm

FWIW, if you’re looking to pre/post party with a cocktail when you dine at Le Comptoir, consider grabbing a drink at Le Hibou (across the street, patio on the intersection). Service is spotty, but I’ve gone several times and enjoyed the cocktail list. If it’s a nice night, their patio is great... but I usually say at the small bar inside and watched them make their drinks.

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