Paris in February? Where to Stay?

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LoriMcLaughlin
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#51 Post by LoriMcLaughlin » October 6th, 2018, 6:39 pm

We went to Paris/Champagne for Valentines Day last year. We had decent weather - cold but clear in Reims, rainy in Paris. For the majority of the trip, I wore a leather coat and that was warm enough.

We rented a car on arrival and drove to Reims. We stayed at a beautiful apartment right around the corner from Reims Cathedral owned by Gen George Patton’s granddaughter. It’s on VRBO and I can send a link if you are interested. Several of the champagne houses were closed for tours at this time - we were celebrating our nephews 21st birthday and ended up at Tattinger and Vranken/Pommery in Reims and then a drive to Franck Bonville in Avize. Vranken for the Art Deco house across the street from Pommery and a short walk to Les Crayeres for lunch. C.Comme in Epernay for lunch and drinks/apps at a wine bar in Reims.

On the return to Paris, we spent an afternoon at Chantilly and then passed on central Paris for a weekend alone at the Caudalie spa on the outskirts near Versailles at Les Etang de Corot.

Great for a long weekend.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#52 Post by dcornutt » October 7th, 2018, 4:10 am

Richard T r i m p i wrote:
September 27th, 2018, 3:51 pm
Stayed at the Hotel Saint Paul Rive Gauche in the 6e in January maybe 10 years ago. Still appears to be a good QPR for downtown. Close to lots of options. Relais Christine might be a bit closer (down the hill) rather than near the Jardin Luxembourg.

RT
The St Paul is a very hospitable hotel with some marveous people that run the place. Well priced and located.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#53 Post by Michael Klein » October 8th, 2018, 7:57 am

Howard Cooper wrote:
October 4th, 2018, 5:22 am
Michael Klein wrote:
October 1st, 2018, 8:53 am
Drifting a little bit here (sorry to rob your thread, Corey!) but does anyone have a rec on where to go in Burgundy if I were to head there for a couple nights?

My thought is I will land around 9a at CDG and can take the TGV direct from there to somewhere like Dijon, Lyon or Beaune.

Does anyone have a strong feeling on where to visit? I will be alone and without a car. Looking for good food and maybe a few sights to see. Obviously, wine would be a focus.

Thank you!
1. YOU NEED A CAR. Rent a car at the train station in either Dijon (or Beaune if you go there). Most of the interesting things winewise are outside the cities.


2. You should be headquartered in Beaune for wine. In Beaune, if you want to stay cheaply, there is an Ibis Styles hotel that is right on the ring road that surrounds the city. Basic, but clean and nice and with breakfast included.


3. Contact info for producers: https://www.burgundy-report.com/discove ... cer-links/ and https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-exp ... ,9366.html? If you are truly carless (a huge mistake), you can go to Bouchard and Drouhin in Beaune (both have costs for tours and tasting).

4. Restaurants we have enjoyed include Aupres du Clocher in Pommard (need a car to get there) and in Beaune, Ma Cuisine, Relais de Saulx (wonderful small place run by a young couple with the husband (chef) and wife (runs the front of the place)) and Maison du Columbier (wonderful wine bar with really excellent food and a great wine list).

5. In addition to making any appointments with wine producers, do not ignore the Caveaus in many villages where you can taste (generally for a price) many wines from producers from the village. My favorite is the Caveau de Chassagne Montrachet.

6. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=153014&p=2546528&hi ... t#p2546528

Thank you for the thoughts here. Very helpful, though somewhat not what I was 'hoping' to hear.

I am going to be alone for this trip and do not really want to rent a car. Might look into it, but it's sounding like sticking to Paris and maybe a night or two in Reims/Epernay makes most sense.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#54 Post by Howard Cooper » October 8th, 2018, 2:33 pm

If you are going to be carless, Beaune is a much more enjoyable place to walk around than is Reims.
Last edited by Howard Cooper on October 9th, 2018, 5:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#55 Post by Michel Abood » October 8th, 2018, 10:47 pm

Howard Cooper wrote:
October 8th, 2018, 2:33 pm
If you are going to be careless, Beaune is a much more enjoyable place to walk around than is Reims.
He should be careless, he's on vacation! Go crazy, have fun! But yeah, Beaune is better for wine-related shenanigans than Reims, though the cathedral in Reims is a sight to behold.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#56 Post by Howard Cooper » October 9th, 2018, 5:06 am

Michel Abood wrote:
October 8th, 2018, 10:47 pm
Howard Cooper wrote:
October 8th, 2018, 2:33 pm
If you are going to be careless, Beaune is a much more enjoyable place to walk around than is Reims.
He should be careless, he's on vacation! Go crazy, have fun! But yeah, Beaune is better for wine-related shenanigans than Reims, though the cathedral in Reims is a sight to behold.
I meant carless. Will correct.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#57 Post by Michael Klein » October 9th, 2018, 9:52 am

both careless and carless :)

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#58 Post by Michel Abood » October 9th, 2018, 12:18 pm

Michael Klein wrote:
October 9th, 2018, 9:52 am
both careless and carless :)
Well you can be careless if you're carless, but not the other way around, for sure. [snort.gif]
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#59 Post by Michael Klein » October 10th, 2018, 12:00 pm

Howard Cooper wrote:
October 8th, 2018, 2:33 pm
If you are going to be carless, Beaune is a much more enjoyable place to walk around than is Reims.
This is actually encouraging. Probably since I was in Reims once, but I have a level of familiarity where I'm not worried about being 'bored' there for a night or two. If Beaunne is 'more enjoyable to walk' then I am encouraged!

Like I said, on a sabbatical of sorts, so I'm really looking to keep things relaxed. In Reims, I know a couple wine bars I loved (Le Wine Bar, Aux 3 P'tits Bouchons) and remember how close the train station was to town (literally about 500 meters). A couple decent spots to dinner, a visit to krug (very excited for this!) and maybe another champagne house, and a champagne bar to wind things down? Works for me.

Frankly, this menu is worth the journey alone!
http://www.winebar-reims.com/carte/carte.pdf

Any similar recommendations in Beaune....I'll take em!

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#60 Post by Howard Cooper » October 10th, 2018, 8:05 pm

If you want wine bars in Beaune, try Maison Colombier and la Dilitante. For wineries, go to Drouhin and Bouchard (need appointments).
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#61 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 11th, 2018, 10:00 am

Ok, so this made me really miss Paris. Need a subscription, so "Bob Hope" is now an avid reader of the UK Times, apparently from the grave.

Love, love, loved the food and vibe here, with a huge shout-out to Michel for passing this along wayyyyy before it was on anybody's radar. I still dream of Angry Quail.

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/rest ... -gfds2l6df

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#62 Post by Michael Klein » October 11th, 2018, 1:02 pm

Thanks Andrew! Your thread was what inspired me in the first place:)

[thankyou.gif]

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#63 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 11th, 2018, 1:39 pm

Michael Klein wrote:
October 11th, 2018, 1:02 pm
Thanks Andrew! Your thread was what inspired me in the first place:)

[thankyou.gif]
Awesome to hear! My wife is going through withdrawal and it isn't pretty :D Hope you have a blast!

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#64 Post by Michel Abood » October 11th, 2018, 3:11 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
October 11th, 2018, 10:00 am
Ok, so this made me really miss Paris. Need a subscription, so "Bob Hope" is now an avid reader of the UK Times, apparently from the grave.

Love, love, loved the food and vibe here, with a huge shout-out to Michel for passing this along wayyyyy before it was on anybody's radar. I still dream of Angry Quail.

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/rest ... -gfds2l6df
Damnit, now everyone's going to go and ruin it. I am planning my February visit as well and this is on my short list of places to go to. Especially on a Sunday. champagne.gif
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#65 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 12th, 2018, 7:22 am

Michel Abood wrote:
October 11th, 2018, 3:11 pm
Damnit, now everyone's going to go and ruin it. I am planning my February visit as well and this is on my short list of places to go to. Especially on a Sunday. champagne.gif
This made me giggle. Paris has a lot of amazing dining options...but my Brother-in-Law, currently living there, isn't a culinary adventurer. His idea of heaven includes large crowds and all-you-can-eat seafood of passable quality. Kind of like "Red Lobster". Open on a Sunday, always a challenge. Co-workers recommended a Portuguese seafood chain (a little higher class than Red Lobster). Pedra Alta. and they serve mountains of cooked or cold shellfish....at reasonable prices. Even better, there's one just a block off the Champs-Elysees on Rue Marbeuf....so crowds are always near. The place must be listed in every Asian Paris guidebook....because you need to get there at like 5pm as the line stretches down the block for the rest of the evening. 75%+ of the customers are Asian. You point at the big giant photo menu and off you go. The portions aren't small. One does what one must for family happiness.

RT

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#66 Post by Corey N. » October 12th, 2018, 7:29 am

All -- as of this morning, it's looking increasingly likely that we will have a full week. Better to spend the full week in Paris (with perhaps a couple day trips) or change our base of operations for a couple days?
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#67 Post by Victor Hong » October 12th, 2018, 7:41 am

Rent a car and visit Normandy, as overnight trip. Au Charme du Honfleur is a fantastically friendly, cozy, and affordable inn.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#68 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 12th, 2018, 8:34 am

Victor...in February?

RT

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#69 Post by Victor Hong » October 12th, 2018, 8:38 am

The climate is marine, meaning that February is fine.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#70 Post by Michel Abood » October 12th, 2018, 8:38 am

Corey N. wrote:
October 12th, 2018, 7:29 am
All -- as of this morning, it's looking increasingly likely that we will have a full week. Better to spend the full week in Paris (with perhaps a couple day trips) or change our base of operations for a couple days?
I would use Paris as a base of operations and take the TGV to whatever region interests you, day trips are stupidly easy (45 minutes to Reims, 60 minutes to Epernay, 2.5 hours to Alsace/Dijon, 3 hours to the Rhone, 4 hours to the Languedoc, 1.5 hours to the Loire, 3 hours to Bordeaux). Once in a wine region, either rent a car locally or use Uber/Taxi services (Uber isn't everywhere outside of Paris). Getting back to Paris late isn't an issue as most restaurants are open late. I do this on a regular basis when there.

The SNCF national train website has an English version with similar prices. Better yet, there's less of a chance of strikes in February, and when the TGV runs on time it's fantastic, especially compared to Amtrak...

Nothing like spending a day in the vines, then relaxing in a warm bistrot that night in Paris.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#71 Post by Neal.Mollen » October 12th, 2018, 8:52 am

Howard, are there drivers for hire (or, I suppose, a reasonably efficient Uber alternative)? I'd be very uncomfortable driving after those meals, at night, on unfamiliar ground, and the same would be true of a day of traveling between producers.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#72 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 12th, 2018, 9:12 am

Michel...I like your idea....If a day (or 2 day) trip is part of the deal. I just did Gare de Lyon to Barcelona. It's a wasted day each way of 7+ hours....but Paris to Valence is < 2.5 hours. Not much infrastructure at the SNCF Valence station IIRC...but you're < 10 miles from Cornas and other Northern Rhone gems aren't far. Nimes and Montpellier are only 3 - 3.5 hours and you can be right on the Mediterranean...with plenty of wine producers to choose. Shockingly fast. Good weather not guaranteed in February but it's likely to be nicer than Paris.

RT

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#73 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 12th, 2018, 10:15 am

I think it's relative. If this is your first trip to Paris, or you don't plan on coming back, I'd stay the week, personally. I used to be a "hit 8 stops in one day" kind of guy, but I like a much more leisurely pace of enjoying my vacations now, especially if I'm half-awake the first day. While Normandy is an amazing trip, I'd recommend making it an overnight, crashing in Honfleur or Bayeux (hit the Tapestry), if you go that route. Just too much distance to cover and you don't really want to be rushed walking around the American Cemetery.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#74 Post by Alain M » October 16th, 2018, 1:35 am

Cold season = hunting season => diner at La Biche au bois to get your annual dose of game meat and Raveneau GCs (at 70€/bottle).

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#76 Post by Corey N. » October 22nd, 2018, 10:18 am

^ Thanks Vic.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#77 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 22nd, 2018, 11:51 am

Corey N. wrote:
October 22nd, 2018, 10:18 am
^ Thanks Vic.
+1. I miss the randomness and sense of adventure in Paris; thinking about this article, I wonder how much of it was Paris, and how much of it was me...

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#78 Post by Michel Abood » October 22nd, 2018, 12:15 pm

Corey N. wrote:
October 22nd, 2018, 10:18 am
^ Thanks Vic.
+2, some interesting stuff in there. I'd been hearing about more and more developments on the edges of Paris, so it's nice to see it's coming true. Can't wait to be there in February myself.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#79 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 22nd, 2018, 5:28 pm

Michel Abood wrote:
October 22nd, 2018, 12:15 pm
Corey N. wrote:
October 22nd, 2018, 10:18 am
^ Thanks Vic.
+2, some interesting stuff in there. I'd been hearing about more and more developments on the edges of Paris, so it's nice to see it's coming true. Can't wait to be there in February myself.
La Defense is worth a visit, regardless, just from a sheer size perspective and it's super easy to get to via 1 Metro (end of the line). I'm sure there's a better article on this, but pretty cool to understand how the "Axe Historique" works from La Defense through to the Louvre -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axe_historique

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#80 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 23rd, 2018, 6:28 am

Interesting Andrew. La Defense will be cold and likely windy in Feb. There's not all that much to see once you're there besides tall/modern buildings, a lot of concrete and the Grande Arche. If they want a chilly view, I'd recommend the top of the Tour Montparnasse - 360 degree panorama. I've become a fan of Courbevoie, Puteaux, Suresnes and Boulogne-Billancourt...mostly because of the family connection there. Few if any tourists, a fair number of business people during the week near La Defense. You don't get the quality and variety of winebars, wine shops, food, restaurants and culture compared to closer to center city....but prices are less and it definitely feels French.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#81 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 23rd, 2018, 6:59 am

@Richard - my avatar is taken from the top of Montparnasse, while my kids were jumping on trampolines behind me ;)

Anything outside in Feb is likely going to be cold and windy. If somebody has extra time, it's as easy of a visit as it gets. 1 line escalator literally pops you out right in front of the arch. Some cool statues in the area (there's a giant brass thumb, too!) and a mall :D If I had 3 days in Paris, it wouldn't be on my To Do list, but if you're there for a week and you like architecture and planning (i.e. really? you have an unbroken line stretching across Paris?), it's a cool 2 hr visit.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#82 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 23rd, 2018, 7:39 am

Looked familiar.

Image
Last October while my nephews were roller skating on the rink behind me.

Andrew did you work at La Defense? Yes, the Metro 1 line is very fast and direct from downtown. Amazing how easy/fast the RER A is too if you're looking to cross the entire City (i.e. La Defense to Chateau Vincennes or Gare Lyon). The La Defense Metro 1 is the main route in/out of the City from Puteaux. Still figuring out the myriad of stairs, ramps, escalators and elevators.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#83 Post by Andrew Kotowski » October 23rd, 2018, 7:47 am

Company office is in Issy les Moulineaux, right on the other side of the Peripherique mentioned in Vincent's article. They were previously located in La Defense, but that was 10 years back or so.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#84 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 23rd, 2018, 8:17 am

Not familiar with Issy les Moulineaux but I recently biked through part of it...crossing the Pont de Billancourt after descending from the Foret de Meudon. Also checked out some of neighboring Malakoff which seemed like another nice banlieue.

There's so much to see downtown for the first several visits (a lifetime I'm told...if you really delve in to the art, culture and history) that it's hard to justify exploring the burbs until after a few trips IMHO, or unless you have friends, family or work.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#85 Post by IlkkaL » October 23rd, 2018, 10:20 pm

Alain M wrote:
October 16th, 2018, 1:35 am
Cold season = hunting season => diner at La Biche au bois to get your annual dose of game meat and Raveneau GCs (at 70€/bottle).

Alain
Please say you are not sh!tting me here. I am going to Paris in December and have been looking for something like this (dirt cheap Raveneau, that is). Looking at the photos of this place online no one seems to be drinking anything nearly as interesting or grand, no one anywhere says anything meaningful about the wine list and the food indeed seems to be on the heavy and extremely traditional side so I feel a bit hesitant. However if what you say is true then I guess that trumps pretty much everything else.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#86 Post by Alain M » October 25th, 2018, 1:57 am

Food is ok but don't expect anything great. However I've not tried game meats there, I've heard it's good but cannot confirm.
To be honest, I go there mainly for the Raveneau... Maybe it's 80€ and not 70€ (was 70€ last year), not sure, but in this ballpark. They have an allocation and are a known spot for Raveneau lovers.
I also remember they had the Rostaing Landonne at around 150€, not bad imo.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#87 Post by Richard T r i m p i » October 25th, 2018, 11:08 am

Well...hopefully they can keep the tradition going. About 10 years ago, there was a restaurant in Saint-Ouen with Coche on the list. Not cheap, but available. Food was also "ok". I made it there twice. Sadly, Le Coq de la Maison Blanche is no more.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#88 Post by theocorrel » October 25th, 2018, 8:25 pm

The whole point of a la biche au bois is the game meats incl game birds. The restaurant is not fancy and is traditional. I had an '01 Clos Vougeot there (R. Engel I think) 15 years out on my last visit that did not disappoint...

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#89 Post by IlkkaL » October 25th, 2018, 9:44 pm

Alain M wrote:
October 25th, 2018, 1:57 am
Food is ok but don't expect anything great. However I've not tried game meats there, I've heard it's good but cannot confirm.
To be honest, I go there mainly for the Raveneau... Maybe it's 80€ and not 70€ (was 70€ last year), not sure, but in this ballpark. They have an allocation and are a known spot for Raveneau lovers.
I also remember they had the Rostaing Landonne at around 150€, not bad imo.

Alain
Ok, thanks a lot for the tip! I love Rostaing as well and indeed that Landonne pricing is 1:1 retail so very fair. However I've not seen such pricing for Raveneau anywhere besides a few joints in Burgundy and they are very much in my top 5 of wine producers in the world.
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#90 Post by Russell Faulkner » October 26th, 2018, 12:14 am

Richard T r i m p i wrote:
October 25th, 2018, 11:08 am
Well...hopefully they can keep the tradition going. About 10 years ago, there was a restaurant in Saint-Ouen with Coche on the list. Not cheap, but available. Food was also "ok". I made it there twice. Sadly, Le Coq de la Maison Blanche is no more.

RT
That’s a shame. I was last there last year.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#91 Post by Michael Klein » December 17th, 2018, 11:47 am

February approaches! Very excited for this trip.

Staying in Paris 5 nights at the beginning of feb, then heading to Reims for 2. Have a visit at Krug that I couldn't turn down. Then, back to Paris for 3 more nights to meet my wife, and then train to Amsterdam for 3.

Have taken note of several things mentioned in this and other threads, but any other recs, especially good solo activities, let me know!

Staying in St Germain neighborhood in Paris and right by the train station in Reims. No car the whole time, so have to keep it walkable or a close cab.

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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#92 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 17th, 2018, 1:17 pm

FWIW - colleague is going on a three month sabbatical, starting in Feb, and is putting her place up for rent. Discounts for longer stays.

https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p8968047?fbc ... 7635246132

She's in the 15th, so think SW Paris, little farther away from the action but close access to Metro/Bus/RER

Michael Klein
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#93 Post by Michael Klein » January 22nd, 2019, 3:52 pm

Lost track of this thread, but thank you Andrew! My 2 week “sabbatical” is looking sad compared to the 3 month one your friend is embarking on!

Any last minute food or other recs are appreciated! I’ll be in Paris from the 1st through the 6th, Reims the 7-8, back to Paris the 9-12, then off to Amsterdam for the last 3 days. Have reservations at septime and lassiste, when my wife comes on the 8th. I’ll be solo til then, so I’m expsoecially interested in restaurants with bars where I can not awkwardly eat alone or any cheap/faster food that might fit the “solo” bill.

If anyone’s in paris and wants to meet up (minus Corey who I’ll see!) let me know!

Cheers,
mk

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Andrew Kotowski
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Re: Paris in February? Where to Stay?

#94 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 22nd, 2019, 4:17 pm

Looks like I will be at the Westin Vendome next week... trying to figure all that out now at the last minute, myself :O I might have Sat open, but working things out real time, as I was not expecting to travel.

Quick note - it snowed in Paris yesterday, so I'd check the forecast. My local team was asked to work from home, as 5-6 cm of snow in Paris is about as much of a goat rodeo there as it is here in Seattle. https://www.france24.com/en/20190122-pa ... wer-photos

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