Tuscany Late November

Thinking about taking my wife to Tuscany in mid-late November as we could be there for her birthday. Can anyone provide any feedback concerning weather that time of year? Thanks for any feedback.

Scott

At that time of year Iā€™d make sure I was always based in a town or city, as the countryside can feel more isolated and driving in the dark simply to get an evening meal might not be fun.

Although Tuscany is famed for its countryside, and youā€™ll not see it at itā€™s best, itā€™s still going to offer joy. My suggestion for day trips is to get out early, make full use of the morning until everything starts to close at 12:30-1pm. Have lunch and then head back to your base without waiting for the re-opening at 3:30-4pm. Have a later siesta if needed when you get back to your base, then stroll out for a leisurely aperitivo and evening meal. Even if wine tasting, Iā€™d still put the focus on the morning, followed by lunch and back to base on the same schedule.

What this avoids is that dead time after lunch, but before everything opens up again, where itā€™s easy to get fed up waiting and traipse back to base, disillusioned with the long lunches.

Places to consider.
Pisa: Imeediately around the field of miracles and between there and the two stations represents the pits of mass tourism. Overpriced, dirty, rubbish, soulless - itā€™s all of that. However the city itself is almost ā€˜under the radarā€™ with so many reporting that Pisa ā€˜is a dumpā€™ based on the above, itā€™s actually got much more too it, as well as a very east eviening passeggiata along the main pedestrianised shopping street

Firenze: Itā€™s never going to be quiet, but away from peak season will reduce the tourist numbers, so arguably itā€™s a great time to go

Siena: I didnā€™t take to it, but thatā€™s how it goes some time. Many others love it, and good bus links and a wonderful small weekly farmers market might tip the balance in its favour

Montepulciano: For me this is a shoe-in. Strolling to wineries morning or afternoon, great views even on a cold & wet day, plus walking that inevitably warms you up (it is steep). Throw in excellent accommodation (Politian apartments are very good indeed) and itā€™s going to feel cosy and warming on even a cold and wet day.

San Gimignano: Another place rather overrun by tourists (blame Rick Steves), but again out of season gives you the place without the hordes.

Spa towns (a slightly off the wall suggestion), e.g, Chianciamo Terme. Can be slightly surreal, but puts you amongst real Italians who value the treatments. These places can be a bit ā€˜seniorā€™ but then I find older Italians wonderfully engaging and talkative, so often a great pleasure to spend time with.

There are other options, but each fits the bill of a place with lots of choice if based in the town/city or at least in walking distance.

As to the specific question, yes I often find November might have the odd pleasantly warm day, but rather more cold & wet days than October (a favourite month to be in Italy). Sometimes compounded by the Italians to be a little slow to put the heating on!

Weā€™ve been to Tuscany for two separate Thanksgiving trips - both in the countryside as well as in Florence. Itā€™s a great time to go and Iā€™ve found the weather to be really nice and warm (and no rain) for the majority of our trips. I often was able to dress in a turtleneck with a fur vest and no coat.

We also found that we were able to visit wineries very easily and with little crowds. We prefer the countryside to the cities - even in the late fall but as Ian mentioned it turns dark quickly and youā€™ll need to be comfortable with driving in the dark.

A few musts in no order (and excluding the big sites - Uffizi, etc.):

  • the American cemetery of Florence (near Greve in Chianti)
  • a tour and tasting at Mate (near Montalcino)
  • wine tasting tour and gourmet lunch at Castello Banfi or at Avignonesi (I preferred Avignonesi, but it may be a bit too far depending on where you are based but the food was excellent and seeing the apassimento (drying of the grapes) is worth the drive)
  • lunch at Antinoriā€™s Osteria in Badia a Passignano (and nearby a Tasting at Casa Emma)
  • dinner with Dario at Solociccia in Panzano (one of our favorites - yes itā€™s a lot of meat, which I was worried about, but it was one of our favorite experiences)
  • fresh pecorino in Pienza (quaint to stroll right before dinner in the dark - before the stores close)
  • a cafĆ© pepe at CafĆ© Polizano in Montepulciano
  • Walking across the Ponte Vecchio at night
  • a visit to Acqua Flor (perfumeria) in Florence
  • we really enjoyed our visit to Bagna Vagnoni - Iā€™m not sure if it would be the same in the winter though
  • Arezzo for the frescoes

On the first trip, we staying at La Collegiata (near San Gimignano) and Locanda all Amorosa (near Singaluna). The second trip we stayed at Villa Bordoni (Greve in Chiani), St. Regis (Florence), and a return to Locanda all Amorosa (near Singaluna). On a most recent trip this May, we stayed at Lupaia (a ā€œfarmhouseā€ in the hills outside of Montepulciano) - it was a great place, but the roads are challenging and may be more challenging in the winter. Iā€™d recommend all of these.

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We honeymooned in Tuscany in mid-November. They were harvesting olives near our villa, but it snowed two nights during the week we were there. Days were comfortable but donā€™t remember exact temps - thatā€™s what weather apps are for.

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If you were to pick the absolutely best month to visit considering weather, crowds, etc., what would by your most favorite time to travel there?

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April and October. Works for most of Europe except Ireland, Scotland and the Scandinavian countries.

October in Scotland isnā€™t bad. December/January in Scotland is bad.

I prefer May to April in Europe, as the climate is normally drier. We tend to travel in Europe during the shoulder seasons, before schools let out in mid-June and after the August holiday. October is my favorite in the fall.

Err - thatā€™s the whole year! [wink.gif]

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Yes, Iā€™d agree that, though personally we extend it a little to be April/May plus October.

Itā€™s also great for produce. The early fruit and veg can be a joy, including alpine strawberries and my favourite fruit - Nespole, plus zucchini flowers. Meanwhile October usually sees the mushrooms still hanging in there, chestnuts and of course white (and black) truffles, along with new season olive oils.

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We were in floerance, lucca and Umbria around Halloween and early November in 2016 and loved the weather. Lucca saw light rain and it added to the atmosphere at night. I donā€™t want hot summer sun and liked the lighter crowds. Had plenty of sun anyhow though.



Just got back from spending 2 weeks in Italy. Weather was wonderful. San gimignano is magical after dark. We went around dusk for dinner and then walked back through town after dinner. All the tour buses were long gone. Florence after dark is wonderful as well.

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2 weeks in Italy and this is all we get? Come on Lonnie, more trip details! [wink.gif]

We were there in October about 8 years ago. We stayed at Viticcio in Greve. Miscellaneous thoughts.

Rent a car but not not believe the GPS. I would be at the bottom of a cliff more than once if I did.

Albergaccio in Castelina in Chianti was an excellent meal.

Dario Cecchiniā€™s in Panzano is a nice place to eat and sit at community tables if you like no frills grilled meat. If you donā€™t, and prefer Nomaā€™s with white glove waiters, you will hate it.

Make sure you stop at the farmersā€™ markets that go from town to town every day. I got a Five Guys size brown paper bag full of Chanterelles for about 3 Euros, and it was the only place I ever had head cheese that was worth eating. Rebecca fell in love with the deep fried polenta.

Flying out tomorrow evening for an 8 night stay in the Montalcino area with 9 winery visits booked. According to online weather reports, temperature range of upper 40ā€™s overnight to upper 70ā€™s during the day with one day of rain.

Running account please [wink.gif]

Hi Lonnie- where were you staying ? Trying to visit San Gimignano and looking at potential lunch or dinner. If we do dinner am looking for lodging options.

thanks