Part of me misses the cachet of firing up my massive WFO and the years of experience it took to master that beast. But after cooking all kinds of pizzas, breads, and vegetables in the Breville over the past 8 months, there is no denying that it produces superior results. I fired up the old WFO a few weeks ago to compare Neapolitan-style pizzas side-by-side to recalibrate: no question that the best pizzas of the day came from the Breville.
The Breville especially excels in these areas:
Neapolitan-style pizza (11" diameter)
There is something about the rapid heat transfer from the highly conductive deck that gives the bottom of the pizza an amazing flavor.
New York Style
Of course, the small chamber of the Breville can’t make big 18" NY-style pizzas. Talking NYC slices is the third rail of pizza making. I am not a purist so I’ll only say that I really like the small ones I make in the Breville. They are better than the ones I make in my kitchen oven on a steel plate. Not going to say more.
Pan Pizzas
I’ve only recently started exploring pan pizzas, primarily guided by Peter Reinhart’s new book, Perfect Pan Pizza. The heavy steel pan (12" round) that comes with the oven is perfect for this style. Yeah, the pizzas are round, which may not be traditional, but the focaccia and Detroit and Grandma and Sicilian pan pizzas have been the best I’ve ever had. Being able to dial in separate deck and top temps is the key - 700F deck, 450 top for example for a crispy, golden bottom and perfectly cooked toppings.
Roasted Vegetables
750F wide open throttle: mushrooms, eggplant, asparagus, salsa verde.
Cons:
Some people have reported cracked stones. Although mine has a small cosmetic crack, it has seen a lot of abuse and remained intact. I think some of the cracking may from immersing the stone in water.
One reviewer dinged the oven for being difficult to clean. Every 2 weeks or so, I hit any dirty spots with Easy-off. Good as new.
Bottom line: Lacks the drama of the WFO. Easy to use. The brilliant design of this oven bakes superior pizzas. Solid dough building and baking skills still essential. I’d be happy to elaborate on any of this.