Cooking Wine

Concerning the topic cooking wine I have a question. Is there really a big difference in terms of flavor if you use for example a Mouton for a sauce or a DRC for a coq au win instead of a 10$ wine?


Cheers,
Martin

I know that most of the time, the adage “use only what you would drink” applies, yet the hours of braising/reduction would obliterate the nuances a $50/btl of wine.

I can only speak of my experience. If a recipe calls for a red wine, and a long cooking time or extensive reduction of the cooking liquid is required (after wine has been added), I have used $10/btl wines with good results.

Whereas I was once an advocate of the application of nicer wines in recipes, I had a change of heart when I used Gallo *Hearty Burgundy" in a brisket recipe given to me by an old cowboy. I assumed he would know cow. It was delicious! :slight_smile:

A related question… I’ve been told that it doesn’t matter if cooking wine is oxidised (I’m guessing that “slightly” is implied). Specifically cooking wine can be kept on a counter not in the 'fridge. Myself I feel that where wine is a big feature (coq au vin say) freshness usually matters.

Back to the question posed…

I’d say a lot depends on the dish. Wine for deglazing probably doesn’t matter too much.
On the other hand chicken with white wine, say, there would be a big difference between Riesling and Chardonnay.
I think you’re really asking fine differences within abroad style. DRC versus basic Bourgogne. Can’t say I have a lot of experience with Coq au DRC. Anyone? :slight_smile:

Claret versus Burgundy? That’s back to style I think. Probably similar to Chicken versus Capon, or Turkey say in terms magnitude of effect. A different dish, not necessarily better or worse.

There is the old saw about using the same wine as you are drinking for coq au vin. It always struck me that was put about by the wine merchants. But definitely use a good, fresh, basic burgundy not a month old Shiraz.

Mouton/DRC is a bit extreme, I know. But you all know what I mean.

Leaving $50+ bottles out of the equation for the moment there is still a choice between (say) $35 (which I have done) $15 or whatever has been left over from the previous week (month?).
I think we’re all saying it depends (on other ingredients and cooking method).

Wondering if I’ve mis read the question.
… Mouton or DRC…
Martin are you asking
A) discernible difference in the dish with Mouton vs dish with DRC
B) difference in dish with Mouton vs dish with Medoc , or dish with DRC vs dish with Bourgogne
I’d say (A) … yes, but I’m totally guessing
(B) maybe not so much, certainly not commensurate with the $ involved, again I’m guessing.

Really need someone that actually done this, or something close!

I think like others have said it depends on the role of the wine in the dish. If you are deglazing or just using it to add some acid they I don’t think it matters too much if at all. However, if it is a base for a sauce or a large component of the dish then a “better” wine is appropriate. I would not use a $50 bottle but I would tend to use a bigger fuller wine that I might want to drink.

On a related issue. I would never used a damaged or flawed wine anywhere in the cooking process.

George

Me too, but I’ve also been told by credible friend that corked wine is ok. Haven’t had the urge to test that.

I had heard that also about corked wine. Seems counterintuitive, but I have also heard it from credible sources.

I almost always use a 10-20 bottle of wine for cooking. If I am opening something nice for dinner and just need a small amount, then I might use that instead.

I do think the riesling versus chard with a chicken is a good example – though again I think it depends on recipe. I have used riesling to baste a roast chicken and I don’t think I have noticed any difference. (The stronger flavors of garlic, rosemary, thyme, and/or lemon predominate).

I can imagine a dish where wine is added near the end to be a pronounced flavor in a sauce – then I think it might matter.

Anyone know what some of the more science-based cooks/analysts say about this?

I’ve never really tested this, but I’d be curious to give it a try. It’d be great to run an A/B test with the sauces and the wines to see if you can tell which sauce was made with which wine.

Practically speaking, I tend to use either a wine I didn’t finish until it was stale, or a cheaper wine that I bought to drink but don’t mind throwing a cup of it into the sauce.

I have a couple go-to relatively cheap (under $15) wines that I keep on hand for cooking. I like an albarino from Spain for many chicken/seafood dishes, and someone at Wine Library (my local wine store) recommended an inexpensive cote rotie years ago for heartier meat dishes. YMMV but these work great for me.

When only a small amount is required, I will use whatever I am drinking, but it seems wasteful to me to cook with expensive wine.

I second George’s comments about “it depends on the role”. That said in previous threads on this subject I’ve argued that while it doesn’t have to be a “fancy” wine, it should be one I would like. I.e. If I don’t like oaky reds I shouldn’t use one to cook.

Others have countered that it just doesn’t matter, and that even nice restaurants are using cheap wine. I’m increasingly convinced of this.

It would be easy enough to test.

Controversial: I pour together “leftover” wines and use them for basic sauces that will have an hour or more of reduction time. Especially with tomato based sauces. I keep a combined red and a combined white (all dry) on the counter. I find longer open top simmers aren’t ‘harmed’ by oxidized wines.

For recipes that use the wine as a primary “flavor,” I use “fresh” wines. Last Bottle marathons are my primary source!

Probably also controversial: I admit liking to cook with the same grape of wine I plan on drinking.

Since nobody is gonna die, I have used corked wine and thought I could tell, but it may be placebo effect.

Somewhat related…

To the OP questions… yes there is a difference between Mouton and DRC, due to oak levels, but not sure there is a huge difference between DRC and Erath (or similar lower end Oregon Pinot).



(edit to clean up phone related brevity)

I almost exclusively cook with corked or otherwise flawed wine. It makes no difference. You braise the heck out of it, and I’ve never had any issues at all with the flaw showing through. So while corked bottles suck, I just shrug, and plan to make some short ribs. I highly recommend it. Because usually I end up cooking with a better wine than I’d buy simply for cooking.

Also because of the high heat of cooking, I’ve never really noticed a massive difference if you use very fine wine for cooking. I once had some leftover 1986 Haut-Brion that was mostly on the sediment that I used for a sauce for filet … it was really excellent, but I don’t know if I can say it was appreciably better than if I just used a $7 Kirkland Cotes du Rhone.

Cooks illustrated tested this out with plonk and high end wine and found there to be no discernible taste difference. I use whatever cheap stuff I have laying around. Another trick is to use the twist off small sutter home wines or black box

Agree on the small bottles. I usually pick up a four pack of red and white. Then you don’t have to open a 750 since you usually don’t need that much.

The one time I experimented with making the same braised dish back-to-back with a Barolo vs. a very simple red they were indistinguishable.

I have tried one dessert that calls for a good Sauternes where the quality of the wine makes some difference, though I think it would be fine with a 375ml of a second label - and not using something like Taylor New York ‘Sauterne.’

Because of being in the trade, I end up with a fair bit of open leftover half decent wine. I keep a half-full 750 or two of red and white in the freezer to thaw out and use for cooking and that seems to work fine, too.

I use wine that for whatever reason I did not consume, be it corked, oxidized, over the hill or whatever. No one has ever detected corked wine in a braised dish, nor ever criticized the use of flawed wine.

I favor 375s from my preferred wine store - they usually have some cotes du rhone sitting around - has worked well for me, and happens to be just the right amount for one of my favorite recipes (short ribs).

I am partial to white Vermouth even in braised lamb shanks.