A couple of weeks ago I traveled to New York to go on an epicurean festivus. I was in charge of one days itinerary and my friend the other. I spent numerous hours researching where to go and posted a request here for recommendations. Based on my criteria and reviews Brooklyn Fare rose to the top of my list, so I made reservations. The following is my experience:
First let me say I have exacting standards when it comes to service, food presentation, taste, creativity, pacing, wine pairings and expect a hell of a lot when going to a 3 star Michelin restaurant - so take this review for what it is - one person’s opinion.
For those who have heard about Brooklyn Fare, but have never been there… it’s not easy to find first time around. You actually walk through a grocery store to get to the restaurant. Once you’re inside the atmosphere is warm, inviting and modern. You can sit at a table or a large three sided community bar. We met with the Somm (who we liked very much) pre-meal and decided to do a wine pairing ($300 charge) with our meal, which started off with a nice Champagne. Brooklyn Fare is like most 3 star Michelin restaurants I’ve been to where they serve you several small courses leading to a main course and dessert. Everything served to us was prepared from high quality ingredients with an appropriate level of detail. Having said that, I found the overall experience to be monochromatic. Several of the early courses had similar textures and the flavor profiles were muted. In many ways I didn’t feel the chef challenged our imagination or used science to awaken different areas of the palate in preparation for the main course. Everything seemed elegant, but again subdued and lacking creativity. Plating was an issue for me. In a word it was nondescript. There was absolutely no artistry in the way the food was presented. One dish included a 3"x3"piece of fish, cut in a cube with skin side down and placed in a shallow white bowl that included a nice broth. Lovely, but when I finished, my thought was, “So what.” That is not what you want to think when you’re at a 3 star Michelin restaurant. On the positive side the wine pairings went extremely well with the dishes, so kudos go to the Somm. On the other hand, the main course was unremarkable, in fact I don’t even recall the protein - Kobe beef perhaps. I can remember all star meals I’ve had 40 years ago, so if I can’t remember the main course from two weeks ago it’s an indication it didn’t wow me. Regarding service, overall it was good, pacing seemed fairly even with several dishes coming out quickly and then slowing down over time. One significant issue I had about service had to do with our head waiter. He was a nice, polite and friendly man, however his Indian accent was so thick I could barely understand him - this is coming from a person who’s traveled in India. This was a source of frustration. I feel a restaurant of that caliber should employ people who speak clear English, if they’re going to be the lead in presenting their food and service.
Unfortunately Brooklyn Fare is being compared to a recent experience at Grace in Chicago and not fairing so well (pun intended). In fact it wasn’t in the same league and had me questioning Michelin’s judgement. It lacked creativity, artistry, science, flavor and the wow factor I expect in that type of restaurant. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed the meal, but didn’t leave me wanting to make a return visit.
Quick note that Brooklyn Fare IS that grocery store . And it used to be in Brooklyn. The restaurant is the Chefs Table @ Brooklyn Fare
Anyhow Interesting, definitely goes to show different folks take away different experiences
Recent trip there, ate at Blanca, EMP, and CT@BF.
Both wife and I though CT was the best of the 3.
Lovedddd blanca’s Italian flavors. Emp is straight up formal and precise. But we loved the Asian influences at Chefs table. Loved every bite!
Also will note That in NYC I’ve been to all the 3* places except masa and also think CT and emp are the best.
“EMP”? I’ve heard good things about Blanca, so that’s on my short list for the next trip. FWIW, my buddy really liked CT@BF. I’m pretty sure my experience at Grace impacted my impressions of CT@BF.
Brooklyn Fare is the best restaurant in the states IMO. Loved the quality of the ingredients and how the prep let that quality shine. Also really loved the overall pacing of the meal and experience. Music was pretty good too! Can’t wait to go back.
I agree with the good feedback on Blanca. It’s definitely worth the trip out to Bushwick next time you’re in New York. It’s basically hidden within Roberta’s, which is also worth checking out for it’s pizza if you have time for two meals in Bushwick.
If you like CT@BF then you should go to Grace in Chicago. Same three star Michelin type fare, only Grace is more creative and awe inspiring and the flavors more memorable. I’ve heard Alinea is even a notch higher, but is perhaps a bit more ‘food as theatre’.
I dined at Grace 2-3 years ago and while I enjoyed my meal I thought it was not on the same level as Brooklyn Fare. Grace felt similar to other high end restaurants I’ve been to in NY, London, Paris. BF felt a bit more unique. My other slight issue with Grace and lots of restaurants like Grace is the beauty of the plating seemed more important than the flavors and how you actually eat the food. The menu I ate had lots of deconstructed dishes with pretty swirls and things all over the plate but didn’t always work together. BF on the other had was just a parade of perfect bites that was all about the flavor of the main ingredient and texture.
I didn’t get any deconstructed dishes at Grace. Everything was beautifully plated with 100% of the emphasis on the ingredients, textures and flavors - all coherently leading to the final main course. One thing that’s interesting about these type of restaurants is the experience always changes, because the menu is never static.
. And it used to be in Brooklyn. The restaurant is the Chefs Table @ Brooklyn Fare