David Toutain - the single weirdest restaurant experience of my life

My wife and I had the most bizarre evening last night. I’m retelling it because hopefully someone can tell me what we did wrong that triggered it? As you’ll see from the below, it’s not so much a bad experience as an utterly inexplicable one.

We went to dinner at David Toutain in Paris last night. We had reservations a month in advance arranged by our concierge; we were warmly welcomed, ordered the full tasting menu, I ordered the truffle extra, we split a decent bottle of burgundy. We were dressed normally - both wearing jackets. The amuses were delicious. We’d split a bottle of champagne in our hotel room, so we were certainly on the jovial side (my wife asked the waiter if she could have seconds of one of the amuses because it was so spectacular), but not anything out of line for a US restaurant. The staff was warm, one of the staff was actually American.

And this is where things get weird.

Once the main meal starts, it’s like we’re on hyper speed. Our pacing is totally different than the tables around us. Then they start skipping is courses - major courses. I start telling my wife to tone it down, that were being treated badly and maybe it’s because we’re too loud. She tells me I’ve gone insane, and now she’s pissed. But there’s no mistaking it, we’re being rocketed through the meal. Finally, after dessert, we pay and go to leave. We’re charged for a full meal. On the way out we pass other the tables, still on the middle of their mains, all being presented with a gorgeous pigeon en croute. We’d never gotten that course. I see plates of other food being cleared we’d never gotten. Folks who got the truffle course got an additional truffle course we never received.

We ask the guy working the front of the house what the hell is going on on the way out of the door. He says, yes, that’s pigeon. He says out meal should have had no problem, that it should have been perfect. My wife says something to the effect of “I don’t know what we did but it’s not right to treat people like this who make a reservation over a month in advance.” The guy sort of shrugs. We leave, mystified and pissed, fighting over who committed the faux pas that triggered it.

Then it gets weirder. About a half hour after we get back to our hotel, the front desk calls. It’s David Toutain. He is completely apologetic. He says that he has learned we did not receive part of our meal. He says there is no excuse for what happened. He describes it as “an unacceptable error thst should never happen in my restaurant”. He asks us to come back for lunch before we leave Paris so that he can make it right. We tell him (honestly) that we only have one meal left in Paris before we leave for Alsace, and that’s lunch at Arprge which we can’t cancel. He says Arpege is lovely. We thank him for his apology, which is as heartfelt as you can imagine.

But here’s the thing. There’s no way it could’ve been a mistake. We were about an hour ahead of the rest of the restaurant because of the pacing and skipped courses. We were getting our truffles when other folks were still eating fish. I imagine that this was a conscious decision by someone, somewhere in the chain. But I would also guess, just based on tone, the Mr. Toutain was pissed when he found out what happened. I can’t imagine he would take time to call us after service otherwise, and he was a complete gentleman on the phone.

My question is: what the hell just happened to us, and what should we do to keep it from happening again? All of our other meals in France have been lovely and if we’re doing something rude we’d rather know it so that we can fix it. We like it here.

In case you think I am making this up, we just found this slipped under our door.
image.jpeg

You’re American and you’re in Paris and there is a group of regular French people waiting at the bar. Someone had to go.
Unfortunate. Were you loud (your word) and obnoxious Americans? Fair question. I can be too.

Wow. That is bizarre. It does sound like it can’t have been a mistake. Was there anything special about your table/limited seating? Maybe the maitre d needed to impress/accommodate someone by getting them a table at the last minute (and without telling the chef) figured you as obvious tourists were the least worst option to screw.

The only other possibility I can think of is that you somehow pissed off the maitre d or floor captain. I would think a regular waiter wouldn’t dare to eject diners without the chef’s knowledge, but I don’t know what it’s like at David Toutain

Restaurant David Toutain only has a single seating. Otherwise, I agree, this would have to have been it.

Why didn’t you ask them to slow down?

You clearly did something to piss off the FOH. You will never know what that is. I think the time to address this was during the meal. I thought the response from the restaurant was excellent. I would have gone out of my way to go back. (Would not cancel Arpege though)

George

Really sounds like your waiter or someone on the staff took a dislike to you and was taking it out by screwing up the service. No idea why (since I wasn’t there), but things like that do happen in France occasionally. Perhaps something you didn’t do, for instance if you don’t say “bonjour” when you walk in a shop in France it’s considered impolite, but whether it was that or the like I couldn’t say.

That’s really odd and totally incongruent with my experience of DT when we were there over the summer. It was one of the best meals of my life. I agree with the above post that it was the waiter (unforgivable for the price paid) and not David or his wife (who is American).

Fwiw, we just had the meal of a lifetime at Arpege - like nothing I have ever seen before - and when the check came, about half of it (hundreds of dollars) was comped. We and our concierge assume that Mr. Toutain must’ve called the restaurant before our arrival. If so, it was an insanely generous gesture, and certainly all is forgiven.

Sounds like the ugly American analogy is correct. Having fun is one thing but being loud is another in these types of restaurants. Booze can make it worse. Too bad it happened to you. Classy move by the proprietor for sure.

How was the food otherwise?

A cut below Passage 53 and Arpege, but still wonderful (and excellent value at 105 euros for the longer menu). The roasted salsify amuse was amazing, as was a codfish with this simultaneously green/herby yet savory sauce. Wonderful variety of flavors and ingredients, especially given time of year. The only main we received was a small chicken dish that was merely OK.

Arpege was once in a lifetime. We got the lunch set menu and augmented it with the lobster with vin jaune. The set menu was unbelievably creative and unexpected - things like beetroot sushi, which was a yellow beet sliced super thin, draped over lightly vinegared short grain rice, dabbed on the bottom with high quality soy sauce and then topped with geranium oil. Absolutely spectacular. And then the lobster. It was so good we order seconds. When chef came over, I asked the waiter to translate for him the story of Joe DiMaggio always playing his best because he knew someone in the stands was watching him play for the first time, and I said I knew this dish was an old standard but it was new to us, executed perfectly and utterly sublime and simple and probably the best thing I’ve ever eaten in my life. Then they brought so many desserts - they asked my wife (a picky but enthusiastic eater) what her favorite dessert flavors were and brought out desserts with those flavors, even as other tables were getting different desserts. I have never had so many, so wonderful desserts. A honey soufflé with apricot, so light and almost ghostly in texture, but insanely flavorful. This thing with chocolate and licorice and sabayon was basically the best, most creative dessert I’ve ever had - intensely licoricey without any of the bitterness, all high-toned, cut by salted bitter chocolate. Insane. And marvelous coffee floating island, a perfect Paris-Brest; we had to order them to stop before we exploded!

Once in a f*cking lifetime. Of course we have that meal 12 hours after the weirdest meal of our lives. It always seems to work out that way.

That’s a weird story indeed. We had another excellent meal at David Toutain a month ago. As an enthusiastic fan of Passage 53, I’m happy that you enjoyed your meal there. And Arpege is Arpege.

Glad you had such an amazing experience at Arpege. We also loved it there. As I’m sure you know from the various commentary here, Arpege is apparently a bit of a high-wire act; sometimes it’s awesome, and sometimes it falls flat. I like it when a chef takes risks, although I also understand people’s disappointment when it fails to meet expectations given the price point. We went for dinner, but it sounds like lunch might be the safer bet, particularly since it’s such a better deal.

Also, I always appreciate stories of French chefs who seem to really care about diners’ experience. The opposite stereotype is so ubiquitous, but in two trips to Paris, we’ve never been disappointed by the hospitality at the nicer places. Passard is clearly a conscientious and warm guy (who completely charmed my wife), and it sounds like Toutain is similar, even if some of his staff are apparently lacking on that front.

Sounds like the waiter was friends with Eric Texier.

I should add that the service at Passage 53 was warm and the food amazing. The somm was friendly and we exchanged restaurant tips - him Paris, us NYC. He gave us each a small pour of Trimbach Gewurtz VT once he heard we were going to finish our trip with a few days in Alsace. The white truffle dish at Passage 53 was absolutely incredible - an onion tortelloni in a foamy Jerusalem artichoke broth, liberally covered with white truffle. As good a truffle dish as I’ve ever had, accentuating the truffle without being rich or overly complex, but still creative. I’d recommend Passage 53 to everyone.

Fwiw, I’ve learned that Mr. Toutain did not call ahead at Arpege. So Mr. Passard gave us the meal of our lives for no good reason other than it was Wednesday. What a wild and wonderful up and down.

Why do you think the reservation was made under my wife’s name? :wink:

Very nice gesture. That’s going way above and beyond. Bravo to DT.

Passage 53 is awesome… DT is pretty great.
Bizzzzzaro story but really without being there to see what you/wife were doing to piss off the FOH it’s hard to say… it’s not acceptable nonetheless.

but they did go above and beyond… worth going back to i’d say.

To be clear, DT did not arrange for the marvelous meal at Arpege. That appears to have been simply a spontaneous gesture from the house there. One of the nicest things a restaurant has ever done for us.