Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

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M.Kaplan
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#51 Post by M.Kaplan » November 27th, 2018, 3:30 pm

I agree with you about Les Enfants du Marche. Also like Mr. T, from the Passage 53 team, a block away. So many new, fun places to eat in Paris.
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#52 Post by Robert Dentice » November 28th, 2018, 3:17 am

Some pictures from Lunch at Les Enfants du Marche on my instagram:




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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#53 Post by Robert Dentice » November 28th, 2018, 3:20 am

On to the next day. The only planning I did was to make a reservation at Septime. When we are arrived to a very warm welcome we were delighted to hear the Chef has prepared a special meal for you.



The "mashed potatoes" with caviar was particularly moving since it was Thanksgiving.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated December 2017)

#54 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » November 30th, 2018, 6:50 pm

Faryan Amir-Ghassem¡ wrote:
August 15th, 2018, 8:07 am
Left Paris this morning. Not a ton of options given the August holiday but a memorable trip. Le Dauphin is just t place and was a great book end around Chateaubriand which was pretty good. Can throw some suggestions when I’m back stateside if anyone would find it helpful.
I’m interested going in early August next year.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#55 Post by Robert Dentice » December 1st, 2018, 6:21 am

A few more meals to add. We met a friend at Saturne for lunch. Chef greeted us warmly and asked if he could cook for us. The meal was absolutely stunning from top to bottom with every dish having what seemed like two very unique ingredients that just worked perfectly. I highly recommend checking out Saturne especially for lunch.

This ravioli dish with saffron was delicious:



Dinner that night was at Le Chateaubriand where we have been many times but have not gone on our last couple of trips. It was great to see Chef Inaki and the food was as delicious as always.

Lunch the next day was at Tour D'Argent. We go for the wine and my wife does not like the food however we have discovered if we ask for a vegetarian meal it actually seems to inspire the kitchen.



And lastly we had dinner with friends at Sur Mur. Sur Mur is owned by Thomas of Verre Vole and his wife Chef Olive. It is 100% seafood and it was spectacular for a casual meal of multiple types of fresh perfectly prepared seafood.


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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated December 2017)

#56 Post by Faryan Amir-Ghassem¡ » December 10th, 2018, 2:55 pm

Tom G l a s g o w wrote:
November 30th, 2018, 6:50 pm
Faryan Amir-Ghassem¡ wrote:
August 15th, 2018, 8:07 am
Left Paris this morning. Not a ton of options given the August holiday but a memorable trip. Le Dauphin is just t place and was a great book end around Chateaubriand which was pretty good. Can throw some suggestions when I’m back stateside if anyone would find it helpful.
I’m interested going in early August next year.
First, check the holiday schedules carefully. A lot of places will be closed and there won't be easy tools like Yelp that us Americans lean on. Call if you can converse, will make your life much easier. In short, you'll be slim picking, but can get by. The food blog linked here (Paris by Mouth) is thoroughly excellent

I would also pay attention to what service is truly open (e.g., for only lunch, both, or only wine shop in some cases). We had stopped by for lunch at Yard only to find the wine store was open but they were only serving dinner. We weren't about to shlep back to Pierre Lachaise!

Places that were open: Chateaubriand, Freddy's, Semilla (lunch iirc), Yard (dinner but missed it!!), Coutume (casual coffee / bite). Closed places include Au Passage, Compagnie vins sur naturrels, Ellsworth, Les Enfants Rouge, Buvette, Septime, Gare au Gorille, Juveniles, Verjus, Mr T. YMMV next year.

Cheers

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#57 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 10th, 2018, 4:48 pm

@Tom - I'd be most concerned about smaller, independent shops, especially if they're family owned. I'd go NUTS because my 75% of my local bakeries and butchers were closed. So, if you're doing things like croissant challenges or hitting up cheese shops that "somebody told you about" (i.e. not Androuet), then you'll want to call ahead before leaving for the day. You also may consider landing "Paris by Mouth" tours now, as they'll plan an itinerary that takes these things into account.

Paris in late July/August is just a different beast and I guarantee you'll be surprised at how much English you'll hear in the streets and parks :D Other strong piece of advice, given August - grab a bottle of champagne and a back-up rose (look for Clos Canarelli at Le Bon Marche or Galleries), some cheese and charcuterie and do at least one night on the lawn at Jardin du Luxembourg. I don't know that there's an official "it's ok to drink wine here" policy on the lawn between the hedge trees, but we had zero problems (and there is definitely a police presence). You're going to have a blast!

Edited to include a picnic pic :)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#58 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » December 12th, 2018, 8:43 am

Thanks all.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#59 Post by Jim Friedman » December 12th, 2018, 11:31 am

Tom--My wife and I spent a week in Paris last August. Most 3 star restaurants were closed as well as many small shops. It was still wonderful and much less crowded than usual. Traffic was light all over the city and Uber worked well.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#60 Post by Michel Abood » December 12th, 2018, 2:01 pm

Tom G l a s g o w wrote:
December 12th, 2018, 8:43 am
Thanks all.
Before you go make sure you check Wendy Lyn's website, she regularly posts about places that open in August (and during/after the end-of-year holidays). She lives there and does high-end tours of interesting places.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#61 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » December 13th, 2018, 6:23 pm

Michel Abood wrote:
December 12th, 2018, 2:01 pm
Tom G l a s g o w wrote:
December 12th, 2018, 8:43 am
Thanks all.
Before you go make sure you check Wendy Lyn's website, she regularly posts about places that open in August (and during/after the end-of-year holidays). She lives there and does high-end tours of interesting places.
Thanks, it looks like a very good resource.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#62 Post by Barry L i p t o n » December 13th, 2018, 10:34 pm

Will be in Paris the first week of the year and most of the places I’ve been thinking if are taking the week off.

Any comments on the following;

Verjus
Le Grand Bain
Pur (in the Park Hyatt Vendome)

ETA I see Mark K reported a good meal at Verjus

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#63 Post by M.Kaplan » December 14th, 2018, 5:37 pm

Hi Barry,
We ate dinner at Verjus again in October. It is very casual and friendly. The food is seasonal and most dishes are very good, while not fussy. We’ve been four times and haven’t eaten the same dish (other than excellent housemade bread and butter) twice. Natural wines featured. Very reasonably priced. Same price range as Saturne and Le Chateaubriand (sub €100 for dinner discovery menu).
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#64 Post by Milton Hudson » December 19th, 2018, 7:31 am

Barry L i p t o n wrote:
December 13th, 2018, 10:34 pm
Will be in Paris the first week of the year and most of the places I’ve been thinking if are taking the week off.

Any comments on the following;

Verjus
Le Grand Bain
Pur (in the Park Hyatt Vendome)

ETA I see Mark K reported a good meal at Verjus
We arrive 12/26 in Paris and depart 1/4 have a few places lined up, but one of the places we had reserved just sent an email they were closing for the last 1 weeks in the year, reopening 1/3.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#65 Post by Barry L i p t o n » December 19th, 2018, 8:03 am

Which one?

By the way, I’m thinking of cancelling my lunch at le cinq on Friday 1/4. I’m thinking LeSquer and his Chef de cuisine will likely be off. Anyone have thoughts on going there anyway?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#66 Post by Jerry Hey » December 19th, 2018, 1:13 pm

Barry L i p t o n wrote:
December 19th, 2018, 8:03 am
Which one?

By the way, I’m thinking of cancelling my lunch at le cinq on Friday 1/4. I’m thinking LeSquer and his Chef de cuisine will likely be off. Anyone have thoughts on going there anyway?
We had an amazing dinner there at the end of September. We had some very memorable dishes including the gratineed onions and the black market beef. Even if the chef isn't there, I'm sure his team is well trained.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#67 Post by Milton Hudson » December 19th, 2018, 2:01 pm

Barry L i p t o n wrote:
December 19th, 2018, 8:03 am
Which one?

By the way, I’m thinking of cancelling my lunch at le cinq on Friday 1/4. I’m thinking LeSquer and his Chef de cuisine will likely be off. Anyone have thoughts on going there anyway?
Afaria

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#68 Post by Jim Friedman » December 19th, 2018, 2:39 pm

We had lunch at le cinq in August and it was outstanding. I have no idea if the chef was there that day or not but they were the only three star open during the week we were there. I would definitely go back there in early January with no concern about whether the chef was there. The celebrity chef touches very few of the dishes we are actually served at those restaurants

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#69 Post by M.Kaplan » December 19th, 2018, 2:53 pm

Whether the celebrity chef touches the food depends on the restaurant. At the Paris restaurants I like, the chefs cook. Don't know about Le Cinq.
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#70 Post by Barry L i p t o n » December 23rd, 2018, 10:39 am

Thanks!

Sounds like no-ones been to Pur.

I love fish, so am likely going back to L'escalier du Bistro. The other choices are le grand bains (never been but recommended by Paris by Mouth) and Au Passage. Any opinions on the relative merits of those three?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#71 Post by Michel Abood » December 23rd, 2018, 2:16 pm

Barry L i p t o n wrote:
December 23rd, 2018, 10:39 am
Thanks!

Sounds like no-ones been to Pur.

I love fish, so am likely going back to L'escalier du Bistro. The other choices are le grand bains (never been but recommended by Paris by Mouth) and Au Passage. Any opinions on the relative merits of those three?
Never been to any of those places, but for fish/seafood dishes I'd recommend L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer. Lots of small seafood dishes to try and interesting wine list.
Guess what? I'm ITB-> Vinotas Selections

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#72 Post by Barry L i p t o n » December 23rd, 2018, 2:37 pm

I'm interested but they don't take reservations, and that's a requirement for me in winter or otherwise inclement weather.

Is it true that you eat standing up there like some reviews imply?

But thanks for the tip!

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#73 Post by Michel Abood » December 23rd, 2018, 4:24 pm

Yes, sorry, I should have mentioned that. It's a standing room only place, from what I remember. It's also first come first served, so getting there earlier is better. It's more of a riff on a tapas bar.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#74 Post by Andrew Kotowski » December 23rd, 2018, 5:44 pm

@Barry - three restaurants lined up next to each other and, if you get there early enough, you can wander around Maison du Whiskey.

I can appreciate wintery Paris weather being a deterrent, but Yves Camdeborde is... Yves Camdeborde. I don’t recall if he made one of the Bourdain specials, but I’m almost positive he was on Ludo Lefebvre’s Mind of a Chef season. To me, the Le Comptoir spots are one of the gems of Paris.

*sigh*. I’m grilling a Flannery rib cap tonight?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#75 Post by Barry L i p t o n » December 23rd, 2018, 6:33 pm

I’ve tried to get in a few times to the main one. If I’m walking in the neighborhood, I’ll pop in. But no matter how good, I’m not waiting in line in the cold to stand to eat.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#76 Post by M.Kaplan » December 23rd, 2018, 7:11 pm

L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer has stools. Never encountered a wait there to eat.
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#77 Post by Mattstolz » January 6th, 2019, 2:21 pm

For cocktail fans, one of the best cocktail experiences I've ever had was at Danico. It was hard to find using google maps but well worth the search. the cocktails were incredibly inventive, prepared by extremely knowledgable mixologists, and we got a cocktail education WHILE he was busily making 5-6 cocktails at once the entire time we were there. Highly recc for anyone looking for a fun experience in Paris.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#78 Post by Barry L i p t o n » January 7th, 2019, 12:49 am

La Pur was excellent. Didn’t get the tasting menu but went a la carte, abalone and turbot. Very pricey but in my hotel so convenient for the first night. Waiving the 50 euro corkage on my half bottle of my clos des Lambrays 2014 kept the price more reasonable.

Verjus was tasty and fun. Very vegetable centric; if you want a lot of protein, you’ll be disappointed. (Example : roast celeriac in truffle sauce as one of the more major courses). They are very accommodating, it would be be very good for vegetarians. Clos Salomon Givry 2016 by the glass.

I loved l’Ecallier du Bistot (my second visit). Go for pristine perfect seafood. Oysters, scallops, sole were great! Chablis by the glass was unmemorable but the Muscadet was nice.

Juveniles was a real positive surprise. I had read good things elsewhere do have it a try. Duck food gras terrine, squid in its own ink and pollock were all very toothsome, and the last two were more complex than they sound (in a good way). Fine wine by the glass, a Saumaize Vire Clisse was nice but the star was their house Beaujolais (2015) by Chermette. If you love Beaujolais, this is the wine deal of Paris at 20 euros a bottle. Great price point all around.

My only disappointment was Semilla, would not go back. It started well with lovely sheep cheese ravioli with hazelnuts.

I have come to expect high quality ingredients but the scallops were without flavor or seasoning (I’m a low salt guy but had to add salt and pepper just to get any taste) in a simple preparation it (served with bland fennel, which I normally love). And a chick pea and squid soup had flavor, but none from the diced cubes of squid which added nothing to the soup but texture (they didn’t even pick up the flavor of the soup). However, very nice wine by the glass choices, including Descombes 2015 Morgon Vielle Vignes which was excellent.

David Toutain tonight for my last meal.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#79 Post by Barry L i p t o n » January 13th, 2019, 9:21 am

David Toutain was great for 2/3 of the meal, but an epic fail for a main (think parsnip roots that had the consistency of sticks and no seasoning for my wife, well seasoned parsnip roots with 1.5 oz of a protein I said I didn't want for me) marred the evening. Pre desert of caramel and seaweed was odd too, but would have been a minor thing if not for the main.

While I liked the inventiveness of many of the courses, it didn't leave a great impression overall.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#80 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 13th, 2019, 9:43 am

Could you hear him yelling at the staff? Loved the food when we went, pairings were ok, but I could have sworn Gordon Ramsay was in the back, pandering for the camera.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#81 Post by Barry L i p t o n » January 13th, 2019, 10:29 am

No yelling.

Wines by the glass were weak, sommelier pushing a flat 03 Chablis, when I tasted it and demurred, I didn't see him for the rest of the meal.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#82 Post by M.Kaplan » January 13th, 2019, 5:17 pm

I like Toutain's cooking, but his menu is pretty much the same each fall when we are in Paris, so we took a break in Oct after going several times previously. The bottle list is fairly priced and to my taste, which works well for us because we usually host one or both of our children plus their dates.

His temper is relatively tame compared to Stephane Jego's.
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#83 Post by ybarselah » January 13th, 2019, 7:04 pm

M.Kaplan wrote:
January 13th, 2019, 5:17 pm

His temper is relatively tame compared to Stephane Jego's.
this is the ultimate in damning-with-faint-praise i've ever seen here. bravo.
Yaacov (ITB)

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