Eating and Drinking in Paris

[CliftonD]

Hi Robert. Yes! We're already booked in Septime for late September when we are back. As well as David Toutain.

Wait. What is your trick for booking Septime for late September? We’re going in early September, and were told they only accept reservations three weeks out. Is there a loophole I need to know about???

+1 for mid-August. Tell us!

[Andrew S.]

No, there's no loophole. They're lovely people, and like other places, there's always a chance of making a reservation in person when you've eaten there. Last time I went I only got in off the wait list because they are so rightfully busy.

[SeanHarding]

Looks like they moved up quite a few spots on the Best 50 list today, so I'm sure that won't help availability I will keep my fingers crossed, regardless. I have the dates I need to try to make reservations marked on my calendar.

[M.Kaplan]

Hi Robert. Yes! We're already booked in Septime for late September when we are back. As well as David Toutain.

Wait. What is your trick for booking Septime for late September? We’re going in early September, and were told they only accept reservations three weeks out. Is there a loophole I need to know about???

+1 for mid-August. Tell us!

Closed in August.

I’ve also had the best success booking in person after a meal. Lunch is a much easier reservation. I’ve had reasonable success on their waitlist.

Do try Saturne for a similar experience. In my opinion, the delta between Septime and Saturne has narrowed significantly over the past couple of years. And Saturne is an easy reservation. Same with Chateaubriand (I like Septime better; service isn’t as rushed feeling).

Andrew S., are you Andy Sipes?

[Alain M]

It has historically been near impossible to reserve. I had a friend who would have another friend who knew the Chef go to the restaurant to make a reservation. Has this changed?

We're going to try to book L'Abri for late September. Unfortunately currently I have no idea how to do so as I've never been able to reach them to book a reservation.

If I'm not mistaken, reservations are open for 5 days at the beginning of each month. I'll check with my friends and will confirm.

Alain

[Robert Dentice]

It has historically been near impossible to reserve. I had a friend who would have another friend who knew the Chef go to the restaurant to make a reservation. Has this changed?

We're going to try to book L'Abri for late September. Unfortunately currently I have no idea how to do so as I've never been able to reach them to book a reservation.

If I'm not mistaken, reservations are open for 5 days at the beginning of each month. I'll check with my friends and will confirm.

Alain

If this is true it is new. From the Paris by Mouth website:


We have never been disappointed by the excellent modern bistronomy at Abri, but the only way that we have been able to go in the last year has been when someone else had a reservation they couldn’t use. No, they will not answer their phone. No, there is no secret strategy. Even if you go in person and ask for a reservation, any reservation, at lunch or dinner for any number of people at any time in the future, the answer will be no. So take it off your list, it’s not a functional restaurant if you can’t ever go.

— Meg Zimbeck, November 2014

[Robert Dentice]

Made a very last second decision to go to Paris this past Saturday. Arrived Sunday just as the weather cooled. Had no time to prepare and make reservations so went mostly to old haunts with a few new ones.

Sunday Late Lunch - Clamato very good as always.

Followed by Cave Septime and Yard

Monday Lunch - Tan Dinh - Food is just ok. Primary purpose was to drink some white burgundy

Monday Dinner - Double Dragon - from the Le Servan crew. Very good. Extremely casual. Only quibble is it is really not the type of food I want in Paris.

Tuesday Lunch - Saturne - Great as always. Chef just cooked for us. Sadly the restaurant is closing in August if you have the chance to go I would.

Followed by quick a stop at Willis Wine Bar for some Chablis and a surprise Riesling

Tuesday Dinner - Restaurant A.T - Absolutely one of the most stunning meals I have ever had. His food continues evolve and it just gets better and better. Full disclosure I am friends with Chef Atsushi.


Wednesday Lunch - Septime - As always wonderful meal. Very happy for their recent placement (#16) on the Worlds top 50 list.

Wednesday Dinner - Le Saint Sebastien Fantastic new edition to my rotation. The Chef was the CDC at the Willows Inn (my favorite restaurant in the U.S.). It is a small casual place with lots of vegetable options. The wine list is excellent. It is Natural but also with a few classical choices so you are not forced to drink the same 10 producers that every restaurant in Copenhagen, Paris and NYC have on their all Natural wine list. Food was excellent albeit the portion sizes could be viewed as a tad small. It was perfect for us after lunch at Septime. I can't wait to go back.

https://www.lesaintsebastien.paris

Followed by Chambre Noire, a very nice natural wine bar with some interesting new to me choices.

[Andrew S.]

Hi Robert,

Saturne is closing permanently this August? That would be such a shame.

[bruce curfman]

I would like to bump this thread, as I was strongly considering Saturne for our trip to Paris/Burgundy in late September-early October. Their website states that they will be closing August 10th but will be reopening September 3rd. However, their online booking calendar only goes to August 9 and shows no dates in Sept.Oct. etc.

Anyone know the skinny on this?

[Andrew S.]

I would like to bump this thread, as I was strongly considering Saturne for our trip to Paris/Burgundy in late September-early October. Their website states that they will be closing August 10th but will be reopening September 3rd. However, their online booking calendar only goes to August 9 and shows no dates in Sept.Oct. etc.

Anyone know the skinny on this?

Bruce, I believe it's literally still an unknown. Their booking calendar wouldn't be open for September anyway at this point.

[Robert Dentice]

I would like to bump this thread, as I was strongly considering Saturne for our trip to Paris/Burgundy in late September-early October. Their website states that they will be closing August 10th but will be reopening September 3rd. However, their online booking calendar only goes to August 9 and shows no dates in Sept.Oct. etc.

Anyone know the skinny on this?

I would start looking into other options.

[bruce curfman]

Oh yeah, lots of options! We may try Rigmarole or Shu, both look interesting. I also want to try Cezembre which is in our neighborhood, and may try to get in at Septime when reservation time comes around. Definitely Freddy's on our first night when an earlier to bed crash is probably inevitable. We rarely go for the big names when in Paris as we do plenty of that when in Burgundy and other regions in France.

[Robert Dentice]

Oh yeah, lots of options! We may try Rigmarole or Shu, both look interesting. I also want to try Cezembre which is in our neighborhood, and may try to get in at Septime when reservation time comes around. Definitely Freddy's on our first night when an earlier to bed crash is probably inevitable. We rarely go for the big names when in Paris as we do plenty of that when in Burgundy and other regions in France.

Rigmarole is the hardest reservation to get so make sure you plan well ahead.

[Tom G l a s g o w]

Oh yeah, lots of options! We may try Rigmarole or Shu, both look interesting. I also want to try Cezembre which is in our neighborhood, and may try to get in at Septime when reservation time comes around. Definitely Freddy's on our first night when an earlier to bed crash is probably inevitable. We rarely go for the big names when in Paris as we do plenty of that when in Burgundy and other regions in France.

Rigmarole is the hardest reservation to get so make sure you plan well ahead.

I picked up a Sunday reservation a month in advance, but it’s in August.

[Robert Dentice]

Oh yeah, lots of options! We may try Rigmarole or Shu, both look interesting. I also want to try Cezembre which is in our neighborhood, and may try to get in at Septime when reservation time comes around. Definitely Freddy's on our first night when an earlier to bed crash is probably inevitable. We rarely go for the big names when in Paris as we do plenty of that when in Burgundy and other regions in France.

Rigmarole is the hardest reservation to get so make sure you plan well ahead.

I picked up a Sunday reservation a month in advance, but it’s in August.

Congrats! I have been once and it was excellent.

[G. Greenbaum]

Oh yeah, lots of options! We may try Rigmarole or Shu, both look interesting. I also want to try Cezembre which is in our neighborhood, and may try to get in at Septime when reservation time comes around. Definitely Freddy's on our first night when an earlier to bed crash is probably inevitable. We rarely go for the big names when in Paris as we do plenty of that when in Burgundy and other regions in France.

Rigmarole is the hardest reservation to get so make sure you plan well ahead.

I picked up a Sunday reservation a month in advance, but it’s in August.

Do sit at the counter and get the higher end tasting. Come hungry.

[Alain M]

We're going to try to book L'Abri for late September. Unfortunately currently I have no idea how to do so as I've never been able to reach them to book a reservation.

Hi Andrew,

Any idea what week you'll be there? Or even some days when you'd be available? I'm going next week so I'll try to book a table if you let me know the details.

Alain

[Andrew S.]

We're going to try to book L'Abri for late September. Unfortunately currently I have no idea how to do so as I've never been able to reach them to book a reservation.

Hi Andrew,

Any idea what week you'll be there? Or even some days when you'd be available? I'm going next week so I'll try to book a table if you let me know the details.

Alain

How very kind of you to try, Alain. Thank you. I sent an email to you.

[SeanHarding]

So I guess while they're on August vacation, the Septime online reservations are also unavailable?

[M.Kaplan]

So I guess while they're on August vacation, the Septime online reservations are also unavailable?

Yes. This is often the case with Paris restaurants during their summer holiday.

[Robert Dentice]

Looks like Maison Sota is opening September 10th and now taking reservations.

Chef Sota was formerly the Chef of Clown Bar.

Can't wait to go.

[SeanHarding]

So I guess while they're on August vacation, the Septime online reservations are also unavailable?

Yes. This is often the case with Paris restaurants during their summer holiday.

I was assuming the online reservations would be automated, so wouldn't need a human present to make it work. Oh well. I guess I'll try to grab a reservation in the small window of time between when they return and I am in town.

[M.Kaplan]

Looks like Maison Sota is opening September 10th and now taking reservations.

Chef Sota was formerly the Chef of Clown Bar.

Can't wait to go.

Thanks, Robert. I booked for early October.

[Andrew Kotowski]

Looks like Maison Sota is opening September 10th and now taking reservations.

Chef Sota was formerly the Chef of Clown Bar.

Can't wait to go.

Hope it goes through this time; not sure what happened previously, but he ended up back at Clown Bar fairly quickly, iirc.

[Tom G l a s g o w]

Rigmarole is the hardest reservation to get so make sure you plan well ahead.

I picked up a Sunday reservation a month in advance, but it’s in August.

Congrats! I have been once and it was excellent.

It was great and filling. The table next to us was worried about leaving hungry, they didn’t. I like the wine list and it’s well priced.
Robert I appreciate your willingness to share your finds here.

[SeanHarding]

Just got back. No luck on Septime, but Juveniles was great in every way — excellent food, and wonderful people. We'll definitely go back there next time we're in Paris (and if it were in OC, we'd be regulars).

[bruce curfman]

We're heading over in a couple of weeks. We struck out on Septime too...tried two mornings at exactly 10:00 a.m. their time 21 days in advance. First time we tried the day did not open up, so thought we had the wrong day, but later that day it was all filled up so don't know what happened. The second time, a time slot opened up so we immediately filled in the requisite information and then it rejected our email address (which was double checked as accurate). Never had that happen before. So we gave up and moved on.

We did get into Rigmarole though, on our trip back through Paris Also booked Cezembre and Capitaine for two other nights. Anyone with recent experiences there?

Something is obviously happening at Saturne, as they were taking res. for dinner only through 9/27 earlier and now only through 9/20. Any one know whats up? Sad.

[Bill Sweeney]

Has anyone been to Akrame recently? Thanks.

[Robert Dentice]

Something is obviously happening at Saturne, as they were taking res. for dinner only through 9/27 earlier and now only through 9/20. Any one know whats up? Sad.

As I reported earlier Saturne has closed. Chef Sven will be doing something again soon. So sad as I had come to absolutely love the place. And it was not as hard to book as Septime so when I would make last minute trips to Paris I new I always had one meal covered without much work.

[M.Kaplan]

I was sorry to see that. Wanted to go one last time before they closed, but couldn’t make it last night.

Thought about lunch today at Enfants Rouge, but it was jammed and I was too hungry to wait. So I’m at Mr. T around the corner, which I love. Very busy here, too, which is great to see. Foie gras ‘oreo’ cookies are ridiculous. Mango bits in the foie gras mousse keeps them light and adds a little sweetness and acid lift.

Re Akrame: We last ate there two years ago and it was as good or better than before the move to the new location, which is much better space. I’d go back this trip but my wife has limited our number of menus degustation...

[Michel Abood]

Sad to see Saturne go...

[Robert Dentice]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

[M.Kaplan]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

Going Saturday, will report back. Off to Automne in an hour.

Edit: Another very fine meal by Nobuyuki Akishige at Automne. Precise, light, and intensely flavorful non-fussy cooking. I don’t understand why it doesn’t get more love hereabouts. Michelin *. 5 course, 8 course, and a la carte menus. We eat here on Sundays and order a handful of ala carte dishes. Tonight: ceps with artichokes, crab ‘butter’ with young vegetables, foie gras mi cuit on a homemade cracker with home dried muscat grapes, and wild calvert (mallard) with an assortment of beets. Delicious. Washed down with 2014 Roulot Bourgogne Blanc. Highly recommended.

[M.Kaplan]

My wife’s tummy was bothering her tonight and we canceled our dinner at Grive. Instead, we walked 50 feet from our apartment to Guy Savoy’s Maître Albert, which her best friend loves. I’m sure there are worse restaurants in Paris, but Maître Albert has to be in the running for worst restaurant under the umbrella of a big time chef. My god, it is bad. My tomato entree was horrible; 4-5 different varieties of under ripe industrial farmed tomatoes and a blob of alleged burrata. My rotisserie veal loin was tasteless and a waste of calories. Her eggs and lentil parfait was disgusting.

I must be some kind of weirdo because the place was packed with (mostly) Parisans who seemed to be enjoying their meals.

Guy Savoy should be ashamed. Maître Albert is an abomination and should be avoided unless it is the last remaining restaurant in Europe after a nuclear holocaust. DO NOT GO THERE.

[Andrew Kotowski]

I don't believe I have shared this place before, but it has turned into a favorite for just about everyone travelling to Paris that asks me for places to eat on the western side of Paris, including my old Western Europe team that eats there every month. @Michel - you should check this out in Feb! The Picanha for two is their claim to fame, which is not a commonly served cut, at least that I saw, in Paris.

If you go this route, I'd drop off in front of Radio France, walk halfway over Pont Grenelle to see the Statue of Liberty, and then head back for dinner. As a side note, the walk down the island from the Statue of Liberty to Bir Hakeim is on of the nicer walks in Paris, especially when the trees are in bloom.

https://restaurantlogre.fr/en

Disclaimer: it's much more of a steakhouse (Brutos style) with bistro-style appetizers than most of the white tablecloth places you typically see in this thread. It's also on the edge of the 16th (kitty-corner to Radio France), so a little farther away from everyone staying over in St. Germain. Finally, if you read my Adventures in Paris thread and visit... I was at 16 Ave de Versaille, which is just past the red awning on the left of l'Ogre's landing page.

[Dan Sch]

On a tip from a resident of the neighborhood, we went to and really loved Stephane Martin. Well off the beaten path and a charming quiet place. Food was really excellent.

https://stephanemartin.com/en

On another note, we really liked Spring back in the day, and were very sad to see it close when Daniel Rose left. On this past trip, we went to one of his other ventures, La Bourse et la Vie. Although not in the format of Spring, we really enjoyed the modern classic food and the list was pretty reasonable.

http://www.labourselavie.com/en/

Also, went to Qui Plume la Lune on recommendation and found it to be disappointing. Good, but not great, and relatively expensive.

[M.Kaplan]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

Went to Maison last night. Open only 3 weeks and excellent nonetheless. A big warehouse space with nothing on the ground floor (it begs for a wine bar) and the kitchen and restaurant seating is on the balcony level above. Kitchen counter seating, a long shared table that can seat 20, and four 4-tops. They offer a tasting menu and a la carte. We were very late for our 9pm due to Nuite Blanche and we opted for a couple of a la carte dishes. Perfect tiny frogs legs and a massive duck pie (like the one he served at Clown Bar, but for two. Or maybe four). Also a few amuse bouches and homemade bread and butter. It was packed and very good. No doubt Michelin will notice and award accordingly. Wine list is spotty, but that is understandable. Will go back in a heartbeat.

Pics on my Instagram, @mkap888

[Robert Dentice]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

Went to Maison last night. Open only 3 weeks and excellent nonetheless. A big warehouse space with nothing on the ground floor (it begs for a wine bar) and the kitchen and restaurant seating is on the balcony level above. Kitchen counter seating, a long shared table that can seat 20, and four 4-tops. They offer a tasting menu and a la carte. We were very late for our 9pm due to Nuite Blanche and we opted for a couple of a la carte dishes. Perfect tiny frogs legs and a massive duck pie (like the one he served at Clown Bar, but for two. Or maybe four). Also a few amuse bouches and homemade bread and butter. It was packed and very good. No doubt Michelin will notice and award accordingly. Wine list is spotty, but that is understandable. Will go back in a heartbeat.

Pics on my Instagram, @mkap888

Thanks for the write up! Can't wait to go.

Don't forget Michelin in Paris seems to have a higher standard for Japanese chefs.

[Andrew S.]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

Went to Maison last night. Open only 3 weeks and excellent nonetheless. A big warehouse space with nothing on the ground floor (it begs for a wine bar) and the kitchen and restaurant seating is on the balcony level above. Kitchen counter seating, a long shared table that can seat 20, and four 4-tops. They offer a tasting menu and a la carte. We were very late for our 9pm due to Nuite Blanche and we opted for a couple of a la carte dishes. Perfect tiny frogs legs and a massive duck pie (like the one he served at Clown Bar, but for two. Or maybe four). Also a few amuse bouches and homemade bread and butter. It was packed and very good. No doubt Michelin will notice and award accordingly. Wine list is spotty, but that is understandable. Will go back in a heartbeat.

Pics on my Instagram, @mkap888

Thanks for the write up! We have reservations in a few weeks. Been looking forward to it!

[Michel Abood]

Anyone tried Sota's new spot yet?

Went to Maison last night. Open only 3 weeks and excellent nonetheless. A big warehouse space with nothing on the ground floor (it begs for a wine bar) and the kitchen and restaurant seating is on the balcony level above. Kitchen counter seating, a long shared table that can seat 20, and four 4-tops. They offer a tasting menu and a la carte. We were very late for our 9pm due to Nuite Blanche and we opted for a couple of a la carte dishes. Perfect tiny frogs legs and a massive duck pie (like the one he served at Clown Bar, but for two. Or maybe four). Also a few amuse bouches and homemade bread and butter. It was packed and very good. No doubt Michelin will notice and award accordingly. Wine list is spotty, but that is understandable. Will go back in a heartbeat.

Pics on my Instagram, @mkap888

Loved the pics, I am hoping to hit it when I'm there in February, I loved his work at Clown bar.

[Andrew M]

Hi all - very helpful thread for my upcoming trip to Paris to celebrate the 30th. Will be the first time. Hoping to make reservations at Septime, Abri, and Rigmarole for a Fri/Sat/Sun stay, which seems as likely as winning the lottery at the same time I get struck by lightning. Anyone have recommendations for how best to go about any of these? I.e. calling vs. online, what time (ET) online opens up, if they are responsive to email, etc...

[Robert Dentice]

Hi all - very helpful thread for my upcoming trip to Paris to celebrate the 30th. Will be the first time. Hoping to make reservations at Septime, Abri, and Rigmarole for a Fri/Sat/Sun stay, which seems as likely as winning the lottery at the same time I get struck by lightning. Anyone have recommendations for how best to go about any of these? I.e. calling vs. online, what time (ET) online opens up, if they are responsive to email, etc...

When are you going? Rigmarole is 30 days out and can be reserved online. Septime is about the same you can reserve online or call in between lunch and dinner.

Do not miss Les Enfants du Marche:

https://parisbymouth.com/les-enfants-du-marche/

I also enjoyed Le Saint Sebastien on my last trip:

https://parisbymouth.com/le-saint-sebastien/

[Andrew M]

Thanks for the tips! I just checked online, it looks like Abri has lots of reservations available through their website one month out, as of now booking for 11/7. However I read about some funny business on TripAdvisor with them apparently not always honoring reservations, so maybe that isn't such a sure thing. Maybe not all online requests are filled?

I set calendar reminders for what day each of these 3 online bookings open up - the question is what time. I've heard Septime books in seconds, so that may mean waking up at 4 am on the east coast.

[M.Kaplan]

Echoing Robert’s recommendation of Les Enfants du Marche, I ate exceptional wild baby abalone today there for lunch. Last week, a great monkfish liver and some fried whitebait. They are very enthusiastic about the fish and shellfish current available. My only additional suggestion is to avoid Saturday lunchtime, as they are always packed.

As for restaurants not honoring reservations, always call a day in advance to confirm. Some restaurants now confirm electronically and don’t answer they phone (for example, Maison Sota and Yard, where we are going tonight, but I got an email reminder from them with a cancellation link).

[Robert Dentice]

Echoing Robert’s recommendation of Les Enfants du Marche, I ate exceptional wild baby abalone today there for lunch. Last week, a great monkfish liver and some fried whitebait. They are very enthusiastic about the fish and shellfish current available. My only additional suggestion is to avoid Saturday lunchtime, as they are always packed.

As for restaurants not honoring reservations, always call a day in advance to confirm. Some restaurants now confirm electronically and don’t answer they phone (for example, Maison Sota and Yard, where we are going tonight, but I got an email reminder from them with a cancellation link).

I saw the Sweet Black Scallops at Les Enfants du Marche on Wendy Lynns instagram. Did you get to try them?

[M.Kaplan]

It seems that I run into Wendy almost daily, but not today. I ate the abalone instead of the scallops after vacillating back and forth. Guess I’ll have to go back tomorrow.

[Robert Dentice]

It seems that I run into Wendy almost daily, but not today. I ate the abalone instead of the scallops after vacillating back and forth. Guess I’ll have to go back tomorrow.

They looked amazing! Although the abalone sounds great as well.

[Andrew M]

I guess I got lucky. I filled out the contact from on Abri's website and they emailed me immediately. Confirmed a reservation for November 16th with credit card deposit. Septime replied that their reservations open 3 weeks ahead at 10 am local, so I'll be giving them a call at 4 am EDT on the 25th to get a reservation on 11/15. Online would work too. Waiting to hear back from Rigmarole.

[M.Kaplan]

Returned today for baby black scallops. Delicious. Baby abalone also pictured below.

[Robert Dentice]

Returned today for baby black scallops. Delicious. Baby abalone also pictured below.


67170697-CDB7-479F-BBBE-7203805EC50B.jpeg

Damn that looks great! I would be there every day for lunch!