Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated July 2019)

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Andrew Kotowski
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#101 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 24th, 2019, 8:38 am

Michel Abood wrote:
January 24th, 2019, 7:37 am
Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 23rd, 2019, 3:35 pm
Going to CAM Import/Export this Sunday :) #thesmiths

I took Mike Grammer to Amarante on a Sunday and it was pretty good, iirc.
Hate you. [cheers.gif]

I'll strongly support all the recommendations for Clown Bar, as well as the others folks mentioned. Brutos is also on my favorites list for Sunday dining, they do some great grilling there, but it is heavy in natural wines (good ones as well as others, I'll admit).
[wink.gif] BRUTOS Bonjour Kotowski Andrew, Nous avons le plaisir de confirmer votre réservation du jeudi 31 janvier 2019 à 20:00 (4 personnes). [wink.gif]
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#102 Post by Jerry Hey » January 24th, 2019, 4:15 pm

From my one time at Toutain, it's hard to believe it got 2 Michelin stars. Very good food, but the service was so-so as was the wine list. At least I didn't hear any yelling from the kitchen. But I did spent a great night with world famous trumpet soloist extraordinaire Sergei Nakariakov.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#103 Post by Michel Abood » January 25th, 2019, 5:48 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 24th, 2019, 8:38 am
Michel Abood wrote:
January 24th, 2019, 7:37 am
Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 23rd, 2019, 3:35 pm
Going to CAM Import/Export this Sunday :) #thesmiths

I took Mike Grammer to Amarante on a Sunday and it was pretty good, iirc.
Hate you. [cheers.gif]

I'll strongly support all the recommendations for Clown Bar, as well as the others folks mentioned. Brutos is also on my favorites list for Sunday dining, they do some great grilling there, but it is heavy in natural wines (good ones as well as others, I'll admit).
[wink.gif] BRUTOS Bonjour Kotowski Andrew, Nous avons le plaisir de confirmer votre réservation du jeudi 31 janvier 2019 à 20:00 (4 personnes). [wink.gif]
That's just mean. [snort.gif]
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#104 Post by Ramon C » January 26th, 2019, 7:18 am

Anybody here lunched at La Comptoir de la Gastronomie? Wife booked it for lunch as am a fan of Southwest foods (casssoulet, duck confit) and our go-to L'Assiette is closed the only day we can.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#105 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 26th, 2019, 7:32 am

Ramon C wrote:
January 26th, 2019, 7:18 am
Anybody here lunched at La Comptoir de la Gastronomie? Wife booked it for lunch as am a fan of Southwest foods (casssoulet, duck confit) and our go-to L'Assiette is closed the only day we can.
I’ve taken a couple of groups there, as the place is well known for their escargot and I had a couple of teams obsessed with ordering it. The restaurant is paired with a store that sells gourmet canned food, so you can bring stuff home if you like it (foie, rilletes, etc). Food itself was pretty good and my visitors were happy, so was a win. It’s highly rated on Yelp.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#106 Post by Ramon C » January 27th, 2019, 7:42 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 26th, 2019, 7:32 am
Ramon C wrote:
January 26th, 2019, 7:18 am
Anybody here lunched at La Comptoir de la Gastronomie? Wife booked it for lunch as am a fan of Southwest foods (casssoulet, duck confit) and our go-to L'Assiette is closed the only day we can.
I’ve taken a couple of groups there, as the place is well known for their escargot and I had a couple of teams obsessed with ordering it. The restaurant is paired with a store that sells gourmet canned food, so you can bring stuff home if you like it (foie, rilletes, etc). Food itself was pretty good and my visitors were happy, so was a win. It’s highly rated on Yelp.
Thanks. I hope it works out for us. If it doesn't, there's still the Septime dinner to look forward to that evening.
@brera

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#107 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 27th, 2019, 1:01 pm

Always incredible. They have beer, which is a better pairing imho, but I didn’t see it on the menu. Just ask.

BTW - to save you some time, here's their email, which I haven't see published. <camresas@gmail.com>
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#108 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 30th, 2019, 11:48 am

Juvéniles still firing on all cylinders. I called 30 mins ahead as a party of 1 and told them they could stick me in the corner. Margaux laughed and accommodated. 2013 Clape Cornas At 90 euros is dead center in my wheelhouse and I almost started clapping as I powered through my foie.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#109 Post by Andrew Kotowski » January 31st, 2019, 3:51 am

FWIW - I love this lady's site, and she has several of our collective favorites on it. Might consider bookmarking it, as she updates much more frequently than other sites (Paris by Mouth, Leibowitz, etc.) -> http://www.parisfoodaffair.com/new-pari ... wine-bars/
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#110 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » January 31st, 2019, 6:59 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 31st, 2019, 3:51 am
FWIW - I love this lady's site, and she has several of our collective favorites on it. Might consider bookmarking it, as she updates much more frequently than other sites (Paris by Mouth, Leibowitz, etc.) -> http://www.parisfoodaffair.com/new-pari ... wine-bars/
Only 8 posts in 2018.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#111 Post by M.Kaplan » January 31st, 2019, 7:19 pm

John Talbott updates his site weekly. Worth a read.

https://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/j ... tts_paris/
---Mark

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#112 Post by Andrew Kotowski » February 1st, 2019, 2:07 am

Tom G l a s g o w wrote:
January 31st, 2019, 6:59 pm
Andrew Kotowski wrote:
January 31st, 2019, 3:51 am
FWIW - I love this lady's site, and she has several of our collective favorites on it. Might consider bookmarking it, as she updates much more frequently than other sites (Paris by Mouth, Leibowitz, etc.) -> http://www.parisfoodaffair.com/new-pari ... wine-bars/
Only 8 posts in 2018.
Was thinking more in terms of her bulk uploads (i.e. 8 reviews), relative to Paris by Mouth, which was my standard while I was here, but had review quotes for their top X lists dating to like 2010.

For what it's worth, Brutos was hit/miss last night. Food was good, but was not a fan of the wine list to save my life. If you're just visiting, I would not put it on the list :( I'd sooner go to l'Ogre (16th), which has more cuts of meat (not at the higher quality level like Brutos - i.e. Normande, Simmental, etc), a better wine list in my sweet spot (CdR, especially Crozes Hermitage) and usually easier to get a seat at. Only downside is it's not quite as English friendly...
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#113 Post by Michel Abood » February 2nd, 2019, 3:53 am

Dinner last night with Andrew and my British ex-pat buddy Neil at Paul Bert was fantastic. Felt like I was home.

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Fried monkfish cheeks

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Herve Souhaut St Joseph Clos des Cessieux

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Côte de Boeuf for 2

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Frites for me

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Andrew loving his Grand Marnier soufflé

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Biggest macaron I ever saw

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Ile flottante because I felt like being 12 again (I usually order cheese not sweets after dinner but this made me change my mind)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#114 Post by c fu » February 5th, 2019, 10:38 am

aight kiddos

Leaving for France friday

Arrive saturday - immediately head to lunch at La Cagouille

Dinner at Petit Sommelier

sunday
lunch - clown bar or Mr. T (haven't decided yet but have res at both)
dinner - les bons george
Looking to snack at enfants du marche/verre vole during the afternoon

burgundy

come back 13th for dinner at vantre

keeping it simple!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#115 Post by Peter Kleban » February 5th, 2019, 12:03 pm

Bon voyage, Charlie!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#116 Post by patrick c albright » February 8th, 2019, 3:02 pm

i like verre volle, but i think there are much better choices with your limited time

in terms of wine, it really depends who is on the floor
a couple of times i was taken back into the walk-in cellar and another time it was a whole lot of nothing
c fu wrote:
February 5th, 2019, 10:38 am
aight kiddos

Leaving for France friday

Arrive saturday - immediately head to lunch at La Cagouille

Dinner at Petit Sommelier

sunday
lunch - clown bar or Mr. T (haven't decided yet but have res at both)
dinner - les bons george
Looking to snack at enfants du marche/verre vole during the afternoon

burgundy

come back 13th for dinner at vantre

keeping it simple!
ITB

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#117 Post by Tom G l a s g o w » February 8th, 2019, 5:45 pm

patrick c albright wrote:
February 8th, 2019, 3:02 pm
i like verre volle, but i think there are much better choices with your limited time

in terms of wine, it really depends who is on the floor
a couple of times i was taken back into the walk-in cellar and another time it was a whole lot of nothing
c fu wrote:
February 5th, 2019, 10:38 am
aight kiddos

Leaving for France friday

Arrive saturday - immediately head to lunch at La Cagouille

Dinner at Petit Sommelier

sunday
lunch - clown bar or Mr. T (haven't decided yet but have res at both)
dinner - les bons george
Looking to snack at enfants du marche/verre vole during the afternoon

burgundy

come back 13th for dinner at vantre

keeping it simple!
Note fu is going there for snacks, apparently unchaperoned by the wife.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#118 Post by Michel Abood » February 19th, 2019, 6:54 am

I just got back from 3 weeks in France and had some amazing meals (shocking, I know). Favorite places included:

-Shu (Kushiage style literal underground hole in the wall - it was an old coal storage basement, Chef is NY-born, CA-raised, and worked in Tokyo and Paris before opening this in 2009): http://restaurant-shu.com/
-Enfants du Marche (last stall where Chef Masahide Ikuta and French partner Mika have teamed up to create fantastic dishes paired with bright natural wines): https://lesenfantsdumarche.fr/
-CAM Export/Import (quickly becoming a classic go-to on each of my trips):
-Paul Bert (OK, traditional but always a good meal)
-Aux Deux Amis (also another go-to for each of my trips due to consistently inventive and delicious fare accompanied by great wine list - mostly natural but well-chosen for the most part): https://www.facebook.com/Aux-Deux-Amis-120307971356817/

There are pics on my Instagram account but I have no idea how to link them here aside from sharing the account: https://www.instagram.com/vinotas_selections/

Also, we had a beautifully inventive lunch in, of all places, Courteron, Champagne (it's rare that countryside places are open at this time of year), while visiting Champagne Fleury, at a place called Le Garde Champetre. It's run by an Australian, Matt Robertson, with another Aussie and a German sous-chef, with a French hostess. The food is all locally-sourced, and the wine list is from the folks who run Semilly and Freddy's. If you're in the area, it's a must-visit: http://legardechampetre.fr/
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#119 Post by Corey N. » February 19th, 2019, 7:26 am

Michel Abood wrote:
February 19th, 2019, 6:54 am
-CAM Export/Import (quickly becoming a classic go-to on each of my trips):
CAM was very good. It reminded be a lot of Atoboy in NYC, though I think the latter is a touch more refined.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#120 Post by Michael Klein » February 22nd, 2019, 8:24 am

From my recent trip, highlights include:

- L'Assiette - thank you to WB for the recs here. Cassoulet was epic. Creme caramel desert was also epic. Perfect meal for a winter night in Paris.
- Septime - amazing. Venison entree was fantastic.
- Septime La Cave - I was here twice. Very fun natural wine bar across/owned by Septime.
- Danico - Inside Daroco - great cocktail spot and small bites.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#121 Post by Ramon C » March 1st, 2019, 9:20 am

Just adding on to this helpful thread with some thoughts on an extended 4-night weekend trip, primarily and hopefully to discover new wow dining places. Unfortunately, not much to report on the wine front as, aside from 2 of the meals, the rest involved ordered wines by the glass.

Restaurants in Paris 2/08/19 to 2/12/19

Cucina Napoletana (4th Arr.) – Slept in at the hotel after arriving noontime and without reservations for the evening’s (Friday) dinner. So, walked around and into this restaurant, hoping for something light to eat before retiring back to catch up on more sleep. Shared pizza with heavy/doughy crust and entrée of beef cheeks didn’t endear themselves to me, but a nice unknown-to-me Italian bottle of Vino Nobile was pretty good. Restaurant got very busy and crowded as evening progressed. I wouldn’t say that this restaurant was the highlight of our dining experience.

Juveniles (1st Arr.) - Perhaps, I was expecting something more robust, but the wine list did not excite nor impress, nor was it robust. Food didn’t help much to excite, either. I found pedestrian bistro menu that somewhat reminded me of winemakers’ menu in regional wine regions. I found my lamb dish tough and a little overcooked; but wife’s duck breast dish was better. Good service, though.

Les Enfants du Marché (3rd Arr.) – Already well documented in this board with the well-deserved popularity and nicely-executed dishes. My only gripe is the wait for wine glass refills by the very, very occupied service staff. Seafood-based dishes are a must order here! I’d echo others who recommended, but would caution those who are against open-air ambiance (expect to be uncomfortable in hot summer days), tight spaces and stool-counter seating.

Jones Café and Restaurant (11th Arr.) - We cancelled our dinner at Le Bon Georges and decided to stay within short walking distance to the hotel by taking on a restaurant that was recommended by a local chef friend. Very glad we did! This almost plain and bare-looking bistro, populated with plenty of black sweaters, turtlenecks and beards, truly wowed with the excellent execution of shared plates of shaved pork, bulot, pappardelle and dessert, among others. While this place is not for those looking for non natural wines, the bottle of natural cabernet franc (Ni Ni Rouge “Bien Au Contraire”) that I had was, shall we say, naturally paired well with all the dishes we had. Service can be a bit hurried, but will not prevent us from going again when we make our way back to Paris.

Le Baron Rouge (12th Arr.) – Can a be a bit daunting to go to for those not wanting to venture into the locals, mostly North African market area of Place d’Aligre, but this is a must visit for us every time in Paris for the very lively market environment. A stop here usually means a quick lunch or snack of mixed pates and cold cuts, a plate of freshly shucked oysters and a carafe or 2 of the featured wines. Noisy, busy and over-flowing wines is the norm. Never failed to enjoy when in this place.

Septime (11th Arr.) –Nothing much to add to most posts here about the coolness of the space and the excellent kitchen-work. The mix of flavors and ingredients are well thought out and nicely executed, especially the beautiful balance of proteins and vegetables.

Freddy’s (6th Arr.) - A lunch to consider should you find yourself in the busy part of 6th and need a walk-in place. Small plates, but the lunch prix fixe at under Euro20 is worth a quick stop. Wine list is surprisingly well represented by stuff I like, especially given that this appears to be primarily a tapas joint.

Vantre (11th Arr.) – Another excellent recommendation by our local friend. A wine list that’s as thick as one of those ancient accounting ledger books, an owner/operator who is passionate and helpful in suggesting the wines to pair with their dishes, and a sommelier who appears to tag-team with the owner and who will politely and expertly guide you based on description of how you like your wines. That’s just the wine part. We came for lunch before flying out that evening and the offered prix fixe, with Italian twists, were memorably delicious and made for good wine drinking. All our dishes were standouts, from starters of gnocchi and beef tartare to the mains of pork shoulder and fried white fish. Along with Jones, this was the other standout restaurant on this trip.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#122 Post by Michel Abood » March 1st, 2019, 10:59 am

Looking through my pictures I realized I forgot to mention one of my last dinners in Paris was at an Italian joint in the 11th, Retro Bottega (https://www.laretrobottega.com/). It's primarily Puglian food from a Puglian chef, Pietro, with a ton of well-chosen Italian natural wines (several of which I import so that was nice to see). The menu is tight and well-focused, the food exquisitely fresh, the pasta home-made, and service very warm and friendly. The space is VERY cramped, but that just makes for fun conversations with your neighbors. Pietro wanders the tight confines, calling out loudly the dishes of the day and making sure everyone is satisfied. The only miss was dessert, which while delicious was way too rich for me, but I just shared a bite with a friend as I'm not much on desserts, I prefer cheese.

IMG_20190214_225128.jpg
A somewhat blurry pic of Pietro and a bottle of Sicilian Orange wine from a winery we import into the US, Elios
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#123 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 1st, 2019, 2:54 pm

All of the spaces are really cramped :D Both Clown Bar and CAM have kitchens that can fit inside a food truck.

Speaking of CAM, I have dinner plans there on Sunday... Too funny that out of all of the places in Paris, I can't stop going back there and it's not for the wine or "French" food. It's just really good. And I like the Smiths.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#124 Post by Michel Abood » March 1st, 2019, 4:47 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
March 1st, 2019, 2:54 pm
All of the spaces are really cramped :D Both Clown Bar and CAM have kitchens that can fit inside a food truck.

Speaking of CAM, I have dinner plans there on Sunday... Too funny that out of all of the places in Paris, I can't stop going back there and it's not for the wine or "French" food. It's just really good. And I like the Smiths.
Damnit. [soap.gif]
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#125 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 4th, 2019, 12:48 am

CAM was on point again last night, and might be the only place I eat all of my vegetables now :). Sat next to the kitchen and watched him break-down dry-aged beef for the tartare (see pic below), which was fun. Couple of pics below (spicy quail, sizzling seafood on crispy rice) just for the hell of it. Have to say that could drink the orange wine they were serving out of a sippy cup!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#126 Post by Robert Dentice » March 4th, 2019, 3:52 am

Can't wait to go back to CAM. Hit up Atoboy last night for my usual Sunday dinner.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#127 Post by G. Greenbaum » March 4th, 2019, 9:16 am

It appears CAM is no reservations unless a 6 top. How long are the typical waits? Are weekends crowded? Am I correct they are closed Mon & Tu?
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#128 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 4th, 2019, 10:30 am

G. Greenbaum wrote:
March 4th, 2019, 9:16 am
It appears CAM is no reservations unless a 6 top. How long are the typical waits? Are weekends crowded? Am I correct they are closed Mon & Tu?
I've never had a problem showing up right at 7. By 8:15, they're turning people away, at least on Sundays. There's a little bar at the front you can sit at, as well.

I'd note that it's super small; the pic above is taken from our table... just a giant window separating the dining room from the food truck-sized kitchen.

Details at https://lefooding.com/en/restaurants/re ... -cam-paris
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#129 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 5th, 2019, 2:16 pm

Michael Klein wrote:
February 22nd, 2019, 8:24 am
From my recent trip, highlights
- Danico - Inside Daroco - great cocktail spot and small bites.
Sitting at the bar here with a couple of buddies from work. Thank you for the recommendation; this place is fantastic. 14 euro cocktails and they’re top notch. Bartender said this is the second bar for Nico de Soto (Mace, NY)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#130 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 6th, 2019, 1:12 pm

I continue to be a fan of Arnaud Nicolas. Best part is that he serves vegetarian/pescatarian food, so I was able to dive face first into plate after plate of foie gras starters and not feel guilty :)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#131 Post by Andrew Kotowski » March 7th, 2019, 3:40 am

Last post for this trip. I wanted to replenish my bourbon stash (ironic, but Maison du Whisky at Odeon has great stuff), so I stopped in for lunch at L’Avant Comptoir (terre). The food has been great, but the guy running the counter is a dick with ears. There are two other people in here and he can’t be bothered with anything that could be potentially misconstrued as customer service. YMMV, but too many other great places in Paris to settle with this guy.

And yeah, the butter is great :)
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#132 Post by Michael Klein » March 7th, 2019, 9:16 am

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
March 5th, 2019, 2:16 pm
Michael Klein wrote:
February 22nd, 2019, 8:24 am
From my recent trip, highlights
- Danico - Inside Daroco - great cocktail spot and small bites.
Sitting at the bar here with a couple of buddies from work. Thank you for the recommendation; this place is fantastic. 14 euro cocktails and they’re top notch. Bartender said this is the second bar for Nico de Soto (Mace, NY)
nice! check out the bites over at daroco too if you have a chance. Excellent pizza/pastas. My wife and I ended up eating here late on a Sunday night after a long afternoon at Concrete - but that is for another thread!

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#133 Post by G. Greenbaum » April 27th, 2019, 1:34 am

Rigmarole (11th) should be included as a destination. Counter seating and several tables. There’s a 49€ and 69€ menu or you can go a la carte. We opted for the 69€. Mostly cooked on binchotan. Raw scallops, picked vegs, several cooked fish, several yakatori, a pasta with half a langostine, several veg dishes, desserts. Fantastic wines mostly natural. We had some pet nat to start and then a bottle of Cornelissen Suscaru. I would return and recommend without reservation.

PSA. CAM closed through May 7.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#134 Post by Robert Dentice » April 27th, 2019, 7:54 am

G. Greenbaum wrote:
April 27th, 2019, 1:34 am
Rigmarole (11th) should be included as a destination. Counter seating and several tables. There’s a 49€ and 69€ menu or you can go a la carte. We opted for the 69€. Mostly cooked on binchotan. Raw scallops, picked vegs, several cooked fish, several yakatori, a pasta with half a langostine, several veg dishes, desserts. Fantastic wines mostly natural. We had some pet nat to start and then a bottle of Cornelissen Suscaru. I would return and recommend without reservation.

PSA. CAM closed through May 7.
Agree on Rigmarole however it is a very tough reservation. They were names best new restaurant last year by Le Fooding and that took it to another level.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#135 Post by Michel Abood » April 29th, 2019, 10:00 am

G. Greenbaum wrote:
April 27th, 2019, 1:34 am
Rigmarole (11th) should be included as a destination. Counter seating and several tables. There’s a 49€ and 69€ menu or you can go a la carte. We opted for the 69€. Mostly cooked on binchotan. Raw scallops, picked vegs, several cooked fish, several yakatori, a pasta with half a langostine, several veg dishes, desserts. Fantastic wines mostly natural. We had some pet nat to start and then a bottle of Cornelissen Suscaru. I would return and recommend without reservation.

PSA. CAM closed through May 7.
I met Chef Robert in the Loire and we had a lovely and fascinating chat. I thought he looked familiar, and it turns out he used to work at Tori Shin when it was on the UES, where we were regular customers. Both of us have Japanese wives, so we had a lot to talk about in terms of food culture. He strongly recommended Shu in the 6th, which I visited before leaving in February, and which was excellent. I did not make it to Rigmarole but it's on my short list for my next trip to Paris.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#136 Post by M.Kaplan » April 29th, 2019, 11:59 am

Le Rigmarole is great. And open for dinner on the weekends. Funny how quickly things change; I was able to book a prime time Saturday night 4 top in October without difficulty.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#137 Post by SeanHarding » May 30th, 2019, 1:57 pm

We've decided to go to Paris the first week of September (1-8), which I realize isn't ideal, but we came to the conclusion that if we want to go at all within the next 1.5 years, that was close to the only time window (due to a variety of complications too boring to go into here). Beyond what's already been discussed, I wonder if you all have any tips or advice for that time of year, in terms of what will be open, etc.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#138 Post by Andrew Kotowski » May 30th, 2019, 3:00 pm

SeanHarding wrote:
May 30th, 2019, 1:57 pm
We've decided to go to Paris the first week of September (1-8), which I realize isn't ideal, but we came to the conclusion that if we want to go at all within the next 1.5 years, that was close to the only time window (due to a variety of complications too boring to go into here). Beyond what's already been discussed, I wonder if you all have any tips or advice for that time of year, in terms of what will be open, etc.
I think that's a great time to visit and the city will be back up to speed with everyone back from their ridiculously long summer vacations (usually 3rd or 4th week of July through 3rd or 4th week of Aug). Weather is generally fine, so you're great there.

Outdoor markets should still be going strong and Mont d'Or cheese will be landing on the shelves, which was always one of the highlights of the year for me.

One thing I'd mention that's a MUST do if your trip is delayed - Journees du Patrimoine is in late September (looks like 9/21 and 9/22, but confirm). France opens up their tax payer funded buildings to the public, including Hotel de Ville and many of the universities. I stumbled upon it by accident and ended up spending four hours going through the rocks and mineral collection at the university in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Probably could have found something more exciting to visit, but was also neat to also wander through their garden with fruit trees dating back 500 years, etc.

Have a blast!
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#139 Post by SeanHarding » May 30th, 2019, 3:14 pm

Andrew Kotowski wrote:
May 30th, 2019, 3:00 pm
I think that's a great time to visit and the city will be back up to speed with everyone back from their ridiculously long summer vacations (usually 3rd or 4th week of July through 3rd or 4th week of Aug). Weather is generally fine, so you're great there.
Ah, that's great to hear! A friend told me that the vacation season extends into the first week or two of September, so I've been bracing myself for a lot of unavailability.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#140 Post by Jerry Hey » May 31st, 2019, 6:57 pm

Go to Atelier des Lumières and see the Van Gogh exhibit, but get tickets online before you go to France.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#141 Post by Andrew S. » June 22nd, 2019, 9:38 am

In Paris for a number of weeks this month and had a number of memorable meals, including:

Saturne: Fantastic tasting menu and quite a bargain. Lovely service, impeccable wine service with a list of vin naturel. The room is incredibly calming, as is the service, making it a truly special Friday evening experience in Paris. A 2010 Georges Comte Le Moutherot Cuvée Les Pelerins, a white from the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, was crystalline, showing all the focus of the 2010 vintage.

Septime: Stunning. Every dish original. We were an hour late because of rain and traffic and brought an additional friend, and they sat us right down and made us feel lovely all night. Another list of vin naturel that is unrivaled. A bottle of 2016 Richard Leroy Noëls de Montbenault Chenin was the perfect representation of vin naturel: the entire vineyard was alive in the glass, you could literally feel and taste the tension of the all the living components unblunted by manipulation.

CAM: Best shrimp toast I've ever eaten. We made a mistake of not making reservations because it had been mentioned here that you need a 6 top. It's actually a 4 top, so reserve if you can.

Chez André: A traditional brasserie in the 8th that opened just before World War II. We've eaten here it seems like 100s of times. Some of the best traditional cuisses de grenouilles, escargot, foie gras and dover sole a la meunière in Paris. It can feel touristy as a few hotels send their clients here, but it's not. Vastly under-rated. Terrifically priced Dom and Cristal on the list.

Le Rigmarole: Too much fun. Mix of tourists and locals. My 10 year old son and I closed the place, eating literally everything they could prepare, finishing with the only things possibly left: chicken tail and chicken butt. Their pasta is made in house and their lobster pasta is divine. Terrific wine list of vin naturel. Oberkampf is happening, with Aux Deux Amis in the area as well.

David Toutain: As good a meal as I've eaten anywhere ever. Every dish original, fully thought out and a revelation. The vegetable courses were otherworldly of course, but so were the oyster, langoustine, caviar & whipped cream etc. It's a small restaurant, they were understaffed, and pulled off everything perfectly.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#142 Post by Robert Dentice » June 24th, 2019, 8:58 am

Andrew - You are hitting all of my favorite spots! Our last meal at Saturne was really stunning. Septime is the first reservation I make when I plan a trip.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#143 Post by Andy Steinman » June 24th, 2019, 10:33 am

Just had Lunch today in the 8th at Chez Andre. Solid.

Les Climats on Friday was a nice evening. Still a wonderful wine list (Arnaud Ente and Cecile Tremblay) and fair prices. Food was solid and service excellent.

Sur Mesure was among the best meals of my life with a strong wine list (Cederic Bouchard and another Tremblay) and great service in a tranquil place.

In contrast Drouant on Sunday Night was among the worst meals I have ever had in France. The service was consistantly awful; rushed and disengaged. We had to pour our own wine (on ice in a bucket about 4 feet from our table) due to lack of attention throughout the meal and then got "scolded" for doing so. Food was meh.

Tonight, Willi's Wine Bar.
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#144 Post by Alain M » June 24th, 2019, 10:54 am

I've yet to go there myself but all my drinking buddies rave about this place: L'Abri in the 10th district. Diner menu is 60€. Food is apparently great. From what I've seen, the wine list ain't shabby either. They recently got their first Michelin star so be warned to book well ahead of time.

Alain
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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#145 Post by Richard T r i m p i » June 24th, 2019, 11:53 am

Andy Steinman wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 10:33 am
Les Climats on Friday was a nice evening. Still a wonderful wine list (Arnaud Ente and Cecile Tremblay) and fair prices. Food was solid and service excellent.
Sur Mesure was among the best meals of my life with a strong wine list (Cederic Bouchard and another Tremblay) and great service in a tranquil place.
In contrast Drouant on Sunday Night was among the worst meals I have ever had in France. The service was consistantly awful; rushed and disengaged. We had to pour our own wine (on ice in a bucket about 4 feet from our table) due to lack of attention throughout the meal and then got "scolded" for doing so. Food was meh.
Tonight, Willi's Wine Bar.
Nice work Andy.

So, Alan Eden gets partial credit because Wine drinking in France "can" suck? 2 out of 3 ain't too bad. Likely 3 for 4 after Willi's.

Sante! [cheers.gif]

RT

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#146 Post by Robert Dentice » June 24th, 2019, 12:13 pm

Alain M wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 10:54 am
I've yet to go there myself but all my drinking buddies rave about this place: L'Abri in the 10th district. Diner menu is 60€. Food is apparently great. From what I've seen, the wine list ain't shabby either. They recently got their first Michelin star so be warned to book well ahead of time.

Alain
It has historically been near impossible to reserve. I had a friend who would have another friend who knew the Chef go to the restaurant to make a reservation. Has this changed?

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#147 Post by Andrew S. » June 24th, 2019, 12:28 pm

Robert Dentice wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 8:58 am
Andrew - You are hitting all of my favorite spots! Our last meal at Saturne was really stunning. Septime is the first reservation I make when I plan a trip.
Hi Robert. Yes! We're already booked in Septime for late September when we are back. As well as David Toutain.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#148 Post by Andrew S. » June 24th, 2019, 12:29 pm

Robert Dentice wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 12:13 pm
Alain M wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 10:54 am
I've yet to go there myself but all my drinking buddies rave about this place: L'Abri in the 10th district. Diner menu is 60€. Food is apparently great. From what I've seen, the wine list ain't shabby either. They recently got their first Michelin star so be warned to book well ahead of time.

Alain
It has historically been near impossible to reserve. I had a friend who would have another friend who knew the Chef go to the restaurant to make a reservation. Has this changed?
We're going to try to book L'Abri for late September. Unfortunately currently I have no idea how to do so as I've never been able to reach them to book a reservation. :)

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#149 Post by Andrew S. » June 24th, 2019, 12:32 pm

Andy Steinman wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 10:33 am
Just had Lunch today in the 8th at Chez Andre. Solid.
Hi Andy. Never had lunch at Chez Andre in all these years. Glad you enjoyed it. At dinner they are the nicest people, some of whom we've become quite close with.

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Re: Eating and Drinking in Paris (Updated November 2018)

#150 Post by SeanHarding » June 24th, 2019, 7:56 pm

Andrew S. wrote:
June 24th, 2019, 12:28 pm

Hi Robert. Yes! We're already booked in Septime for late September when we are back. As well as David Toutain.
Wait. What is your trick for booking Septime for late September? We’re going in early September, and were told they only accept reservations three weeks out. Is there a loophole I need to know about???

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