Another fermentation question....

As a test I have four different small fermentations going on with a different commercial yeast strain in each but the same must source. I am doing this an experiment to see how the different yeasts make a difference in the finished wine state.

Anyway, Ive noticed one of them has what I assume is a very slight hydrogren sulfide (rotten egg) smell. Is this normal? I didnt add yeast nutrients until after the fermentation really got going in a major way so perhaps the yeast are stressed and I need to add more? The fermenation with the rotten egg wiff is by far the most vigoursly fermenting one.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.

Berry:

Think back to grade school science class; it’s Tragedy of the Commons. Vigorously fermenting = not very hospitable environment for life. As the yeast colonies grow/expand/thrive they deplete all of their resourses, particularly oxygen, nitrogen & amino compounds. I would think a couple of punchdowns where you splash around the juice should do the trick and get enough oxygen into the system. What yeast did you pitch this batch? May be a bit too aggressive.

I don’t need to punchdown this one because it is simply juice that was cold-macerated and then pressed off.

This partricular fermenter has Lalvin Bourgovin RC 212.

You don’t think I should add more yeast nutrients? Is it normal to get some hydrogen sulfide in primary fermentation? Will it blow off on its own?

Thanks for the information!

I have never had an active fermentation in primary that smelled of H2S.

I have had it in secondary and it will not blow off on its own. You need to address it or it will ruin your batch. When in secondary, the first thing to do is the rack it off and get it some air. Ignoring the hard core chemistry you need to get O2 into the must to bind up the H2S. Assuming the same holds here, I would either transfer your batch to another primary or as suggested give it some good agitation (punchdowns) to get it some air and see if that helps.

Nutrients will not help the H2S you already have in the must. Try to address the issue with O2 first. You may not need more nutrient since you state you added some already but until you clear whats in there now you will not be able to tell.

I’m curious. Are you tracking temp in your four batches? If so how does this compare to the others?

RC212 has a high nutrient requirement, so it’s not too surprising that it would be one of your ferments that’s giving off rotten egg smells.

As mentioned before get the wine aerated, and if you are not below 10 brix add a small dose of nitrogen containing nutrients.

We occasionally have stinky ferments, and we just vigorously aerate our pump overs. Never had a lasting negative effect on the wine. Wine during fermentation is usually pretty hardy. It’s afterward that the permanent problems are more likely to set in.

Barry, you are learning more from actually DOING this than you could learn in reading 100 books. Welcome to the club. Watch out, it is addictive.

Thanks. These is exactly why I am doing it. Also, I have a theory that Pinot made without oak at all will taste perfectly fine. I really want to test that theory.

Hydrogen sulfide occurs in nitrogen poor environments. Add DAP.

One highly rated Pinot maker used 100% new oak, all with toasted heads.

Which simply proves that some people will rated anything with enough highly.

I remember seeing a huge WS review for a top Cab a couple of years back, where all the descriptors were obviously from the oak. Got something like 97pts. Was a hoot. [snort.gif]

It will taste fine, but leaner and with less structure. I usually have a few carboys that don’t end up getting used for topping wine so its always fun to taste when transferring all the wine to tank for bottling. I also use many neural barrels, for me 5 year on, and tend to like the neutral barrel better than glass. You never top glass as there is no ullage so the wine never seems to gain any weight due to evaporation. I like to think of the barrel as a slow reduction sauce of flavors via evaporation of water and alcohol thru the barrel thus condensing the amount of yummies (highly technical term) that are in the wine. This is basically why I wont bottle our Pinots under screw cap as well, they just don’t seem to gain any depth with time as the there is no ullage taking place.
I do tend to prefer the wines in glass that have a higher percentage of whole clusters used in the fermentation as they seem to have more structure out the gate. Some of the carboys never even get any so2 (some malos finish so late I just don’t see the point of adding it if the wine is in glass) which is kind of fun to taste as well.
If you make wine next year you could try to get your hands on some of the new breathable plastic tanks they have now, though not sure how small you can get them.

Berry:
Barrel are beautiful breathing vessels. Find yourself a neutral barrel and you will get all the important advantages w/o the flavors.
E

Is there some sort of new polymer that will breathe but not oxidize? We rack into poly tanks but never leave wine in them for more than a few days. I have a friend that left some white wine in one too long and it oxidized so badly he had to dump it.

Thanks for the info, Joe.

Actually leaner, less structured and less weight all sound fine to me. I just pressed the wines and I certainly wouldn’t want them more structured or concentrated than they are. If anything I would have liked more finese. I was surprised at the intensity that I got because I was aiming for the opposite.

Makes total sense, I just want to try a different style. To make a Champagne analogy I’m going for Dom rather than Krug.

I know some one who was using the flex tanks with oak adjuncts last vintage. He seemed happy with the results but I have not tasted the wines. They make their tanks in 2 versions this is what they claim:
“Two thicknesses of vessel provide passive micro oxygenation performance similar to either second year barrels (Maturation Weight) or “neutral” barrels (Heavyweight) at cellar temperature (55F). The thicker units are primarily intended for aromatic whites where only minimal micro oxygenation is desired.”

I too rack to poly but do not age in them.

Berry looks like they have down to a 50 gal size for next years experiment.



I am surprised you more than you were looking for. You will have a much better understanding for next years try at making what you are looking for.
Dont foget to rack a few times or bottle early if aging in glass, because it does not breathe you have a higher chance of reduction and mercaptans developing.

I think you’ll find when the CO2 and solids settle, that you have less concentration and structure than you originally thought. Either way, interested to see your interpretation of the results.

mercaptans are my biggest worry