Terry Thiese: Graacher Himmelrerich vs. Graacher Domprobst

Gaacher Himmelreich gets most of the attention, but those in the know know tht Graacher Domprobst produces the best grapes, right?

There are more outstanding parcels in the Domprobst, nor does it have any of the flat sections Himmelreich does. The latter is overdrawn by the '71 wine law, but its best sections (on the steep slope right below the sign) are legit Grand Cru. The wines, as a rule, are more forthright and less exotic than Domprobst, which in turn leans almost toward the Nahe at times. Himmelreich is more ur-Mosel.

Who are the producers whose holdings are within the best sections of the Graacher Himmelreich? Are you aware of any maps available?

My guys all have primo parcels, and I’m sure others do too. There are maps, but you have to ask an insider. I carry some I got from Willi Schaefer in my briefcase, to make the point that his various bottlings have their origins in actual land, and the distinctions from parcel to parcel. There are those who persist in believing the Germans only do this to confuse us.

Wouldn’t Wehlener Sonnenuhr be the archetypal Mosel vineyard?

Who said anything about archetypes? The best parts of the Sonnenuhr are indeed superb, in a very different way from Domprobst. I’d only say that as the Domprobst is drawn, it is more consistently outstanding than the overlarge Sonnenuhr.