If anything, the fundamentals are now worse in terms of covering your food costs because those have sky-rocketed. Can’t really raise those prices in this environment, obviously have to be very careful about wine and alcohol pricing, so it’s a really rough situation. Even more important for your wine program to be a profit center. Thus so many places closing. I think people sometimes make this stuff out to be more devious than it really is, that restaurateur’s take is about what you hear from most people who work in restaurants. Even if they are going for more aggressive retail style pricing, they will tell you that it’s a volume play and that without much more volume than traditional pricing, it’s tough to make it work. There’s a reason it’s a tough business, particularly now, and it’s because the fixed costs are high, and the food profit margin isn’t good (for high-end places).
And expectations continue to rise in terms of what you offer, just look at that owner who’s getting crap for wasted BTG bottles. If true, she’s doing the right thing by not pouring wine that’s been open (and how many complaints do we hear, justifiably, about pouring wines that have been open for awhile BTG?) but that is wasted inventory. So she could either not have a big BTG program (another source of complaints) or have one but run it for the best bottom line (thus ensuring that you probably wouldn’t want to order any of the bottles) or she can do what she is doing and waste inventory or she can invest in an expensive machine like an Enomatic. Having a big BTG program also means she must need a lot of temperature controlled units for those wines so they’re ready to go right away, or of course she can pour the wines at the wrong temperatures, saving money but pissing off guests. Then you’re also going to need more glassware because of the greater volume, which also means you’re going to have more breakage. And I’m sure there’s more.
We have a very well-known and popular restaurant in Boulder, Frasca, which tried retail+20 when they opened and say that they would have been out of business if they had continued with it. The owner’s quote, which I think is probably the way a lot of people think about their own businesses was “Are there some places that overcharge? You bet, and if you overcharge, you’re going to lose some wine-savvy people. But if you undercharge and you don’t have a way to take care of that, are you going to be around?”
I always try to look at these things from the perspective of the owner who, yes, wants to not just break even but make money. If you own a restaurant, you have to make your profit somewhere: you can try to go bare-bones on location and decor and glassware, etc. to lower your fixed costs, you can try to have really high churn rates to make a general volume play, you can try to have much higher food profits than most places (either by charging more or using lower quality ingredients or both), or you can try to make your alcohol sales your profit center. Obviously you can do more than one of these, but what you can’t do is have is Riedel stemware all around, only 2 covers per table per night, slight profit margins on the food, and slight profit margins on alcohol.
The great thing, in my opinion, about most businesses in our economic system, and certainly I think restaurants fall into this category, is that the consumers have the final say. If that place is terribly overpriced, then it isn’t going to succeed. If a place is succeeding (financially, not just getting people in the door), then it might not be overpriced, but maybe it could do better by lowering prices or by raising them. And if a place isn’t succeeding financially but is getting people in the door, then it probably is underpriced. Any way the ultimate judge is if people are spending their money there. Hard to have a more fair system.