I am sure that this has been kicked around some (I’m a relative newbie) and I am happy to be directed to previous threads, but what Barolos (or Baroli) would you characterize as Burgundian?
I know those from La Morra are generally said to be “softer,” and in this way closer to Burgundy, but that has not really been a decisive indicator in my experience. (As it happens, my first memorable Barolo experience, and the one that got me buying in a sort of scattershot way, was a wine that was very Burgundian and was from La Morra, but it was at Felidia, when the old somm, now at Del Posto?, was still there, and I told him I liked Burgundy. Not being familiar with the region, I did not retain the name and I was never able to recover it–it was a 375, no longer on list when I checked.)
Finally, special occasion coming up, I’ve got the '05 B. Mascarello and the 04 G. Rinaldi Brunate-Le Coste. Assuming these are in anyway close to being drinkable (and perhaps the latter is not?), is either more Burgundian?
I’d recommend Burlotto Monvigliero (from Verduno) and Marcarini Brunate as starters. Maybe Sandrone (La Morra), though I haven’t had one in some years now.
I love Barolo for many of the same reasons I love Burgundy – but I’ve never found even the “Burgundian” Barolos to taste all that Burgundian at all, except perhaps with a ton of age. Last night I had an '08 B. Mascarello – a Barolo some would put on the “Burgundian” side of the spectrum – and let me tell you, it was marvelous but not even remotely Burgundian. A few nights ago I had an '08 Marcarini Brunate – another wine purportedly on the “Burgundian” side of things – and again the wine had very little in common, either in structure or flavor, with any Burgundy I’ve had.
I’m with John. If you don’t think barolo can be more burgundian in style, try the burlotto monvigliero. It is delicious and reminiscent of great chambolle musigny to me.
Burgundy certainly has a wide range of styles, I don’t understand why it isn’t acceptable for Barolo to have the same.
While not a Barolo or even Nebbiolo, a Nerello Mascalese from the Etna region of Sicily might be worth considering. My favorites are Calabretta, Terre Nere, and Passopisciaro.
What Burgundies are more Baroloan? Can you imagine someone asking that question?
I agree with Keith, the similarities between Barolo and Burgundy are more notable once Barolo is fully mature and has shed most of its tanning. Like 25+ years old.
Agreed. I have had a bunch of Marcarini Brunate over the years and a few B. Mascarellos and neither of them tasted even vaguely like Burgundy. Maybe lots of age will do it, but I had a 2000 Marcarini last year and it was not Burgundian in the least.
It’s not the flavors, it’s structures – high acid, intense aromatics – that are similar. And both have a way of fleshing out and miraculously becoming fruitier and sweeter with age.
I’ve actually thought about this before. Some of the traditional Burgundian producers who do a fair amount of tannin extraction but don’t pick super ripe and don’t use much new oak remind me a bit of Barolo. Lafarge is an example where the comparison has come to mind.
John, your suggestion of Burlotto Monvigliero surprises me. I only had the 2004 (twice) but I found its aromatic profile so unique, spicy and aggressive (lacking a better and more precise way to describe it) that I would never call it Burgundian.
Am I especially sensitive to that aromatic profile or do you see what I mean?
In any case, could you explain better?