These notes were from a tasting done late last year. It was one of the finest I have ever experienced.
I have to say there are very few wineries I find as exciting as Ridge, certainly none I can think of California. Ridge began in the early sixties with a philosophy to make great wines of balance and terroir, and in Paul Draper, they found somebody who has embraced this vision, making the wines in the great uncompromising manner ever since.
As we tasted through the wines, it was obvious that these were wines that reflect where they made. Showing alcohol levels that were generally under 13 percent, the wines there included heady Petit Syrahs, perfumed Zinfandels or their glorious Cabernets from Monte Bello and Eisele, all beautifully made and balanced. It was an object lesson in letting the wines express themselves without the intervening ego of a winemaker.
That night was particularly extraordinary, because Paul Draper and his wife, Maureen, joined us for the dinner. Gentle and articulate, reminding me a good deal of my favorite college professor, Paul’s comments made a great evening magical. And Café Boulud, sometimes forgotten in the Boulud empire was the perfect venue, the wine service immaculate, and the mushroom risotto with foie gras served with the Petit Syrah and York Creeks, one of the best wine and food matches was extraordinary.
The 1974 Chardonnay was a surprise. Still vibrant after nearly forty years, it tasted of pears and white peaches and a little honeysuckle. The younger Chardonnay, the 2010 was promising , with the same aromatics, but it lacked some of the heft and vibrancy, and will probably peak in fifteen years.
I have tasted the 1974 Petit Syrah a dozen times since the late 1980s, and it has always been a bit of a brute. Sometime after 2005, it finally decided to show what it really is, a magnificent big boned, rich wine with great acidity and flavors of plum, lilac and licorice. In a night of greatness, this was certainly one of the best wines there, and for one or two tasters the wine of the night.
The two York Creek Cabernets were interesting. The 1975 was certainly lively enough, and evolved beautifully in the glass, with plenty of fruit , leather and earth. Paul was delighted, and perhaps a little surprised by how well it showed. The 1974, the first vintage, was tiring a little, but amid the wanwood leaf floor and mushrooms, there was a surprising amount of fruit.
The next flight was a marvel. Although I scored the 1968 Monte Bello higher, my favorite wine of the night was the 1973 Geyserville Zinfandel. It reminded me of Mozart’s Magic Flute. Relatively light, but so profound. It possessed a wonderful perfume of lavender and strawberries. Light, easygoing but with enough backbone to give its long and layered finish. The perfect showcase to show how well great Zinfandel can age.
Under other circumstances, the 1974 Lytton Spring would have been a stand out. And it did show extremely well, a great chunky old-fashioned Zinfandel. The massive structure was mostly tamed, and the wine was strong and the dark fruit and spices came out in the glass. Seamless on the palate, with a lovely long finish, it complemented and contrasted with the Geyserville perfectly.
The 1964 was a decent but not a great vintage, but it was one of Paul’s first, and it did show well, although it was a little overwhelmed by the extraordinary 1968. This reminded me of a 1961 Latour, powerful, precise, masculine, not quite ready but an archetypal cabernet. Jean Luc Le Du, who has tasted a lot more Latours than I have, felt it was closer to the 1959. An utterly profound wine, and a privilege to taste. Sadly the 1970 was slightly corked, but beneath the cardboard, there was enough to show that it was also a world class wine.
Finally the flight we were all looking forward to, the two 1971s. The Eisele was from purchased grapes, and has an extraordinary reputation, recently selling at auction for $2600. It was rich, and more enveloping that the Monte Bellos, and the finish was as long as any apart from the 1968. The 1971 Monte Bello was excellent, but overshadowed by the much more exotic Eisele. Although still good, I think it may just have turned the corner.
Overall, although I expected much from this tasting, I was shocked by how well the wines had aged and how beautifully the had developed. This was a tribute to one extraordinary winemaker, who has kept the faith.