New Small Production Cab Worth Getting - MacDonald

I first heard of this wine while reading a review by Doug Wilder some time ago, and then also from Shawn Johnson (Poe), Tegan Passalaqua (on this board), Monica Stevens (750 Wines) and then Bruce Phillips (Vine Hill Ranch.) I finally got a chance to visit the property, in Oakville, a couple weeks ago and then finally tried the wine yesterday. This is one is worth watching close and probably getting in early on, if these kind of wines are to your liking.

The vineyard that makes up the MacDonald Family Vineyard was originally producing wine as part of ToKalon Winery in the 19th century. It actually rests within the Mondavi ToKalon Vineyard, and is for all purposes, ToKalon, in many ways, although it does not officially carry that designation, and is actually a separate vineyard. The vineyard is family owned and always has been.

Robert Mondavi purchased the Cab fruit from the MacDonalds starting his very first year in business, 1966, and the fruit from the vineyard has been part of the Mondavi Reserve program since that year. And in the last few years it has comprised up portions of the Mondavi ToKalon bottling that is available to club members for $300. Mondavi still gets all the fruit, except for the small portion that goes into the fledgling MacDonald Cab. One only has to see the vineyard to see why.

The 15 or so acres of Cab (its all Cab) are comprised entirely of 20, 40 and 60 year old vines. The oldest vines are roughly the same age as Scarecrow’s “old men” vines. And the subsoil is made up of up to 40-80% gravel, which puts it at the level of or even exceeding the gravel content of the “Monestary Block” of Mondavi, which I have walked before and is a staggering block that makes up the Premiere Auction lot for Mondavi in most years.

Alex and Graeme MacDonald run the show, themselves. They are coaxing the 60 year old vines back into form and trying various experiments to get the best out of their young vines (the 20 year old ones.) The MacDonald Cab is made up of the 40-year old vines right now (about 1.5 tons per acre), planted when Nixon was President. Graeme picked the grapes for the 2013 over a week ago, so he is not aiming for max ripeness. It is quite ripe, anyway.

The 2010 Cab (the first release) has a dense purple color and is full-bodied with a thick, plush texture. Lots of black cherry, graphite and cocoa powder in the nose. Voluptuous and round, it has a bit of Margaux-ness to the nose and mouthfeel, although riper than any Margaux I’ve had. It is all new oak. This is a big wine, but not a monster. My guess is that it could use 5 years, or a few hours decanted, and should last two decades. This bottle had a 24-hour decant and I would love to try one as a pop-and pour just to see what that is like. I would give it a solid 95-points. There is just 92 cases produced, four barrels.

I also had the 2009, which only has 22 cases produced, and might never go on sale. It was a bit more classical in the nose and mouthfeel and had more structure than the 2010, which is interesting because with most Cabs, the 09 is the fruitier vintage. Not in this case. I sense they are refining their winemaking as they get going, and will continue to do so. The same is true with their vineyard. I liked the 2010 a bit more, but could see why some (including two of the people I was with) liked the 09 more. The 09 reminded me of a mid-90s Mondavi Private Reserve, while the 2010 reminded me of a larger scaled Groth Reserve from their glory days of 1985-1991.

They just have a sign-up page at the moment, but apparently the wine goes on sale in a week or less. The wine is virtually an unknown, but probably won’t stay that way. The price is $150, which is less than most, if not all ToKalons, and production is likely to stay awfully small. I think they will be offering 3-packs, but am not sure.

I would love to have this next to the “Greer” from Rutherford, as each are super hard to get and from epic soils in the heart of fully-legit benchland AVA. Have fun!

Here is a link to the landing page… and yes, they are starting to take a few visitors at their vineyard and house on the property.

http://www.macdonaldvineyards.com/

MacDonald Vineyard, looking out to the Mayacamas, a week ago.

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The 2009 and 2010.

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Thanks Roy. Pricey new Napa cabs aren’t usually on my radar, but I’m looking forward to this.

Just to clarify, it’s NOT To-Kalon fruit right? not sure the comparison or am i reading it wrong…

Mark, it is NOT ToKalon, although it sits within that vineyard. It is MacDonald. Soil wise, it IS To-Kalon, and has been going into Mondavi’s ToKalon Cab for some time. So… a rose is a rose?

Ahhh ok. understood!

Thanks for the write up, Roy. I also am looking forward to this, and signed up after I first read the review by Doug Wilder.

I think its great that the vineyard has been with the family the whole time, and that they are starting to produce their own wine from it.

While pricey, the wine sounds wonderful, and I will be on the lookout for the release email.

$150 for a cab with no track record? Thanks but NO.

FIFY

http://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1198839#p1198839

Roy glad you like Graemes wine. I am a big fan. See below my original posting and notes from a dinner in NYC.

I’m hoping to taste the wine and walk the vineyard at the end of the month.

So the Mondavi Reserve for nearly half a century is no “track record?”

There is a misunderstanding about “track record” among wine collectors. Assuming competent winemaking, the only track record that matters at all anywhere… is the vineyard, or block of vineyard. If you have a great vineyard, you will make a good to great wine more times than not. You can be the world’s greatest winemaker, but if your vineyard is average, you will only make average wine of average age-ability. If wines from your vineyard source historically ages well, it will likely continue to do so. If someone grabbed the block that Schrader uses for Old Sparky, I would not need to wait a few decades to know if it would make great, ageable wine. If someone made juice from LaTache, I would not need to wait a few decades to know if the wine from it would age well. It will.

Forget wine, when it comes to “track record.” Follow the vineyard.

Hey Robert, good job getting there early!

This is exactly right and “terroir” (or “site”) is precisely, I believe, what people have valued for centuries in Burgundy and Bordeaux.

This wine appears to me to have a tremendous track record.

True, a good vineyard with know track record is essential. But there are a dozen things the winemaker can do to make a wine very different from what someone else might do: growing and pruning decision, picking decisions, oak utilization, time in barrel, etc. And if it’s a typical ripe Napa cab in 100% new oak, the fruit source matters less than you think

Alan, in this instance we have a remarkable site with an exceptional track record, old cabernet vines and some very compelling tasting notes from people we’re familiar with.

I agree with you - high dollar, new releases from Napa can be a huge “crapshoot” (where have we heard that before?). Can’t wait to try this one.

[I should add that it’s been many years since I purchased a Cab from a high-end new label - or a $150 Bordeaux for that matter]

Allen,

I assume that since they own the vineyard they are at least aware of the steps taken in the vineyard to get the grapes to harvest. That leaves the actual winemaking the remaining variable with plenty of expertise available to draw upon in that regard. I understand new oak has an effect on the wine but to totally disregard the importance of the fruit source I think is short sighted. I certainly understand the natural reluctance to donate another $150x3 for another Napa Cab but if I didn’t get VHR I would seriously consider the purchase. Too many great Cabs for me! That price for To Kalon fruit could be a great bargain compared to my Schrader, Paul Hobbs and AO.

Yes, yes, yes!

I apologize, really. I violated my self-imposed rule by commenting on a wine I know nothing about, and a style of wine that really isn’t my thing, but other people love. That was uncalled for. I’m sure this IS some really good wine, and I hope those who buy it get a lot of enjoyment from it. Cheers.

I may force a glass on you someday! My cab buying is fairly limited - Monte Bello, Corison Kronos, Bedrock “Bedrock Vineyard”, Arnot-Roberts and Dehlinger (and only a few bottles of each per year). I’m interested in seeing were this fits in.