TNs--Whites only. Champagne, Raul Perez Albarino, 06 SHL Blanc, 01 Kracher

In what is becoming more of a scheduled monthly-or-so tradition, had another lovely dinner with boardmember Tran Bronstein and our friends Michael Wright, Jay Shampur and Jay’s friend Heather McDougall, who doubles as the Somm at Splendido’s. Food was very fine and nuanced…and so were the wines

Cedric Bouchard La Parcelle Florescence Blanc de Noir Brut

Heather brought this unannounced. Well, I am prepared to put myself in her hands going forward. Most of you know that I don’t like champers very much. That does NOT apply here. Bursting with citrus notes and a tiny bit of sweetened salt. Well, on the tongue, I like this a bunch. Absolutely fresh, zesty, lots of citrus replays and some florals. And it remains sprightly and sunny for the whole evening. Thoroughly enjoyable.

2008 Raul Perez Sketch Albarino

We tried the lower-end Muti about a month ago. This is a step up even from that. Much more verve on the nose, more elemental. Wonderful herbal scents–mint, sage, rosemary, maybe some cilantro—and I want to say hint of BBQ corn. Mouthwatering acidity combines at the midpalate and back with an almost-kinky unsweetened nougat and truffle combo. This changes wonderfully over the night, first picking up a maple-and-wood aspect and then a crazy tarragon swatch later, absolutely. Gets better and more sophisticated with time in the glass. Heather, who had introduced this to Jay, suggests another 3 years in bottle for his last one. Will have to be patient. We note that in the late stages, it behaves very much like a Chenin.

2006 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte Bordeaux Blanc

The funny part is, I had brought this thinking to bring a roughly similar wine. Hah! I love that nose I really do. Panoply of baking spices, lovely wood varnish and glints of white fruits. In the year since I had it last, this has developed even more of an oily feel, a truly delectable feel now. Splendid spiciness intertwines with pear and a subtle mint side. This is silk personified, yet with the smallest back-catch of heat (this came in at 14%), which, for me, adds even more interest. Later, a gunflint aspect shows up and redolent honeysuckle—a good catch by Heather—is in play…I commented that it was starting to show a little like a young white rhone. This is my WOTN, but only by a nostril tonight—it was tough. Tougher is knowing this was my last bottle. It is absolutely in the perfect slot for drinking, so if you have any, feel free to indulge. We served this with just the slightest chill, and that is best—we left it in ice and, chilled down later, it got stripped of all its character.

2001 Kracher Chardonnay #3 NV TBA

I didn’t get a good look at the label, but from internet research, it looks like it has to be the Nouvelle Vague. One sniff—yup, that’s Kracher. Terrific blazing dieselly quality to the bouquet which lends its hand to the vivid apricot and orange underneath. This is an absolute infant—almost an unborn. Full of itself with petrol replays, big botrytis, lots of sugar with mango and apricot, yet that sublime carry that comes with all good things Kracher. There’s even a menthol side to this, and later big-time honeycomb. I think at least a decade is needed for it to start to come into focus, but the potential is ravishing. My thanks to Tran for sacrificing this in a good cause.

Kwa heri,

Mike

Ah, the joys of wine elitism. The Bourchard French soda was fantastic, dangerously easy to drink. Despite being a Brut, I detected some noticeable yeasty sweetness and Heather informed us this was likely from the choice of dosage. No complaints whatsoever. A beautiful French soda.

The Sketch Albarino was uplifting, with great acidity, minerality and salinity. And no, I don’t think the salinity comes from being aged in the ocean, it’s a reflection of the grape and its sea salt-influenced terroir and climate. I notice the same saltiness in Madeira and Tawny Port wines which are also salt-ocean influenced climates and terroirs. However, once paired with food, this became a different wine altogether with creamy sweet herbal notes. Nice.

The Haut-Lafitte took me a while to warm up to, but my jaw dropped when Michael told me it was a Sauvignon Blanc based wine. Kinda the same reaction I had at his WineFest when I tasted a red Burgundy wine and was informed that it was Pinot Noir based. You immediately understand the fascination with French wine. No more cat pee Sauvignon Blanc for me. The only other Sauvignon Blanc I ever tasted this good was the high-end Cloudy Bay Te-Koko Sauvignon Blanc.

I’ve always wondered why TBA’s are sold so old instead of fresh and young and this explained why. Now I know. I’ve had younger Sauternes and Tokaji that were more ready than this to drink. It was still pretty nice with loads of honey and botyrtis glycerin and dried mango and apricot flavors – but one sip and you could tell they were still mighty raw. It certainly does speak to the aging power of botrytised wines. Great potential in this wine. Drink some icewine while you let this sleep with your Vintage Ports, TBAs and Sauternes because it needs the long rest.

Great set of wines and notes Mike! Thanks for sharing! Some special stuff – that 2006 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte Bordeaux Blanc …

I haven’t had a detailed look into whether this could be the reason for that feel, but my recollection says that SHL uses quite a bit more Muscadelle in the blend than some others.

I should do some snooping around for info on this…if I’m not too lazy

Asked and answered.

Thanks,

Kenney

@Kenney, truthfully, I had the advantage of having tasted Madeiras before and reading an article on sea and ocean-aged wines where the winemakers were slapping their foreheads at professional wine critics claiming they actually tasted the “fresh sea salt from the ocean waters” in their wine. That’s not the reason winemakers age their wines underwater. Without the benefit of this knowledge beforehand, I probably also would’ve thought that nice touch of salinity came from the waters themselves as well without knowing any better.

It has been apparently also scientifically proven that among the other benefits of aging wine so deep underwater, the osmotic pressure is too high to allow that kind of transfer to occur. If it could happen, the good stuff in the wine would also be able to get OUT as the salt came in.

“2006 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte Bordeaux Blanc
…I commented that it was starting to show a little like a young white rhone.”

Glad you enjoyed it. I just opened a 2001 SHL blanc a few minutes ago. It is a bit white-Rhonish, in some aspects, but I am really coming to think that it is suffering from Pre-Mox. I’ve read that White Bordeaux are also experiencing premox, but this is my first experience. Anyone else have experience with this?

Drew

****2006 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte Bordeaux Blanc

The funny part is, I had brought this thinking to bring a roughly similar wine. Hah! I love that nose I really do. Panoply of baking spices, lovely wood varnish and glints of white fruits. In the year since I had it last, this has developed even more of an oily feel, a truly delectable feel now. Splendid spiciness intertwines with pear and a subtle mint side. This is silk personified, yet with the smallest back-catch of heat (this came in at 14%), which, for me, adds even more interest. Later, a gunflint aspect shows up and redolent honeysuckle—a good catch by Heather—is in play…I commented that it was starting to show a little like a young white rhone. This is my WOTN, but only by a nostril tonight—it was tough. Tougher is knowing this was my last bottle. It is absolutely in the perfect slot for drinking, so if you have any, feel free to indulge. We served this with just the slightest chill, and that is best—we left it in ice and, chilled down later, it got stripped of all its character. ****

Hi Mike…are you the gentleman who bought all the bottles of H-Brion ( blanc ) 2012 offerred by LCBO as future at CA $1295 per ?

‘Whites only.’ We have Berserkers of many colors on this board, my friend…

LOL! (well I know it and love it, Barry)

Peter—um, you must have me mistaken for a billionaire with too much extra cash. But I must say, the 1999 was divine.

Drew, I’ve only had one problem, with a couple of 1998 Pavillon Blancs from Margaux, but I bought them in my wine knowledge infancy and didn’t treat them very well. I rather think they were cooked as opposed to premoxed. Otherwise, no, not that I can recall.

Kenney—How are things? Sorry will miss the Mt. Katahdin annual this year.

Creepy A$$ Kracher…

This practice is particularly suited to champagne because of the pressure, and when still wine is submerged corks are often forced into the bottles by the underwater pressure. For still wine they normally cover the cork with a wax seal.
More and more houses are doing it for their fizz. Here’s a list: https://www.champagneeveryday.com.au/post/taking-cellaring-to-new-depths