Nice weekend Burg to celebrate the night before Mother’s Day with my lovely wife.
2002 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Bressandes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (5/11/2013)
Fairly youthful red tone. Nicely complex aromas, ripe but restrained red fruit and floral notes, balanced by a healthy dose of earthiness. Great balance on the palate, plenty of ripe red fruits but elegant, fine structure, restrained by earth, light tannin and ample acid. Long, clean red fruit and anise finish. Fully mature and ready to drink, though it will go for several years with its nice balance. (91 pts.)
2002 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Bressandes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (2/10/2019)
This was opened about 90 minutes before the dinner. Decanted for sediment in a carafe-shaped decanter and served in Riedel Grand Cru Burgundy glasses. There is a ruby core and initially there was little if any aromatics and an almost singular note of cherry on the palate; I could see this easily being interpreted as simplistic without the time to open in the decanter. After some time scents of wilted roses, earth, wild strawberry, and hints that remind me of an old antique store. The palate is soft and lovely yet still framed by acidity that seems as if there is the structure to carry this wine another 3+ decades. Secondary fruit notes seem to be forming at this stage in the wines life as there’s some hints at something like dried strawberries or a dehydrated orange peel initially with a finish that seems to have shifted to younger fruit as fresh raspberries linger along the long finish. An outstanding and lovely vision of Corton.
For me this wasn’t where I’d really want it to be. There was some secondary notes (or better put, scents that I identify as coming from an aged wine). As you’ve noted; Florent de Merode was never considered a top-tier producer. I paid $33 for a '98 Corton from them in 2006. However, I am glad to have opened this a few nights ago and it did scratch the Burgundy itch and pair beautifully with the Mushroom ravioli we had. If this is the level of quality in the 2005’s I have I’ll be happy when I open one again in another decade or two.
I wouldn’t say that (although I’m 42 and still buying Corton). I think they’re extremely enjoyable in their youth. I think for me, I’d say that when I’m 50-60 I’ll only drink new release Cortons (if I can still justify the cost).
I can only speak for myself but because I like 20 year old reds—and 30+ for Corton—I stopped at 2005 when I faced actuarial realities. I think Corton is the slowest to mature, even slower than Bonnes Mares and, if you like mature red Burgs, one needs to think about maturity curves—of the wine and the buyer.
Of course, can’t argue with anything Alan says, but I would add, in my more limited experience, things do vary with vineyard and producer. Corton Renardes, Pougets, or Les Combes, sometimes drink a little younger, and I’ve had some 99 Corton from Follin Arbelet, which I thought were in the zone, whereas most of the other '99 Red Burgundies I have tried have seemed not ready. That said, I have some of this same bottling from '08 and I won’t be going near it any time soon.