10 days in France doesn’t seem like nearly enough. Going to be traveling with my wife and one-year-old son. Part vacation, part work and appointments.
Berserkers are typically thoughtful in their travel suggestions, so…
Favorite towns to visit in Provence?
Favorite Bandol not named Tempier?
I have plenty of ideas brewing, and am curious to see if they match up with this board.
Cheers and thanks.
Visit Chateau Pibarnon, great location and were serving up their 2001 rouge as well as younger vintages when I was there in July.
Eat at Hostellerie Berard in La Cadiere d’Azur. Pretty little hill top town and an excellent 2 Michelin star restaurant. The restaurant in the Hotel Ile Rousse in Bandol is also very good
Brodie
I love Provence, so much to explore there. Are you staying near the coast or more inland?
I’ll let the tourist towns speak for themselves (Arles, Avignon etc.) and speak to a few interesting places that maybe aren’t as prominent in the guide books.
If you are at all near Marseille, a meal of bouillabaisse at Chez Fon Fon is not to be missed (make sure to pair it with a Bandol Rose). The beach towns are somewhat touristy, I’ve personally enjoyed spending more of my time in the hills, exploring the small towns and markets.
Velleron has an extraordinary market, and the market at Carpentras is always fun, if a little touristy. If you are up that way, a drive to the summit of Mt. Ventoux is a spectacular outing on a clear day (or as an alternative if you are a cyclist - a ride to the top).
The cliffside towns are really beautiful as well: Roussillon and Gordes or two beautiful examples. Also stop by the Abbey of Senanque if you are in the area - the setting of many a postcard. Just driving between the towns and sights in that part of Provence is an adventure in itself.
And although this may not really count as Provence, one of the highlights of our travels in the area was a few days spent exploring the towns of the Cotes du Rhone - Gigondas, Rasteau, Seguret, and Vacqueyras were all highlights of our trip. You can taste almost every wine made in Gigondas at the little cave in town. Domaine de Mourchon above Seguret is run by a british man- they offer really nice english language tasting in a spectacular setting and the wines are quite good, we drank a lot of their rose while we were out there. A drive through the vineyards around Chateauneuf du Pape is always an eye opening experience too, the town itself is somewhat touristy, but a must stop if you like the wines.
Hope this helps.
Another recommendation for the hill town of Gordes. In addition to great scenic views, we did some shopping for Provencal pottery and linens here for ourselves or as gifts. A bit inland from the coastal towns in Var, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and stroll of the grounds at Chateau de Berne. It was so relaxing that I would like to return here for a three-day stay sometime. http://www.chateauberne.com/ You might want to try Maury, a fortified wine, while in Provence (from Roussillon but available in Provence). Provence has a great variety of attractions from large cities like Nice, to mid-size towns like Grasse (perfume center) to small villages and coastal beaches. Aix-en-Provence and Avignon are both worth a visit. You may want to include Monaco and Monte Carlo in your sightseeing. It depends a lot on where your interests lie.
It has been quite a while (almost 14 years) since we were in Provence, but our favorite towns were Cassis and St. Remy. Also liked Vaison de la Romaine.
Favorite Bandol (red and rose, have not tried the white) is Dom. Terrebrune, a Kermit Lynch import. It is one of the more delicate and balanced wines of the appellation. I second the recommendation to visit Pibarnon. Beautiful location and very good (albeit expensive) wines.
Enjoy.
Aix, St. Remy, Les Baux (must go to Avignon as well) - this is based on the assumption you are looking at western Provence. If you intend to include the Cate d’Azur, my preferences would change
Pradeaux and Pibarnon for Bandol reds and Bastide Blanche for rose
Favorite non-Tempier Bandol: Terrebrune
I would nominate bastide blanche for red as well, especially with a bit of age on them.
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue does an incredible (truly) market on Sundays and is otherwise pretty compelling. If the restaurant Le Jardin du Quai is still open I would highly recommend that. Menerbes and Bonnieux are both great cliff towns to walk around in. The Hotel and Restaurant Cesar is a great spot for lunch (the views amp up the food quality which is solid if not spectacular). Other spots mentioned are excellent as well. I would suggest a visit to Domaine de la Canourge which is just outside of Roussilon. They have wonderful rose and it is a beautiful winery to boot. I actually found the town of Bandol to be too coastal touristy for my tastes (I grew up in coastal Maine so I am perhaps more sensitive than many).
I love the wines of Chateau Pradeaux
not really Provence but close
I must defend Vaucluse
Touristy as it can be, I love CdP
When do you go?
Favorite towns: St. Remy and Uzes.
Loved staying in Uzes.
I stayed 10 days in St. Remy. Tremendously well-located so you can get to anywhere quickly. Lovely little town.
From that vantage point, we hit the Alps, the Camargue, the Riviera, and all the wonderful little towns like Gordes, Isles la Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucludes, and the Rhone wine regions. Avignon is great, too.
Drop a note to Mr. louis Barruol, owner of Chateau St. Cosme, for a tour/tasting. He responds promptly.
Color me jealous!!! It’s been too long for me.
Aix-en-Provence both as a destination and a base from which to explore the western part of Provence. I can think of no better way to spend a few hours (or more) than sitting in an outdoor cafe or having lunch in a restaurant looking out on the beautiful Cours Mirabeau. On the Cours, one gets a real sense of Aixois life. Part of the culinary landscape of Aix is the ubiquitous pizza truck, where you buy by the pie. As this is Provence, check out the pies with all manner of seafood on them.
Marseilles is 20 minutes by car. I agree with the above rec to eat bouillabaise at Chez Fon Fon in Marseilles, but don’t overlook the family owned three star Passedat-Le Petit Nice for truly refined cooking, a great view of the sea from the dining room, and a cellar stocked with treasures.
Outside of Aix is Chateau Simone, a producer beloved by the locals. They produce a red, white and rose, all of which are terrific wines at very good prices. You can find the wines in many of the restaurants in Aix, and if you happen to spot the '88 red, you’re in for a memorable bottle.
Gordes is indeed a beautiful village, and designated as one of France’s most beautiful villages, but is hugely popular during the summer.
Way over on the eastern edge of Provence is Menton, a delightful city in which to stroll. Go over the border and you’re in Italy.
Any love for La Tour du Bon? I like one of their cuvees in particular.
I’ve heard Chateau Simone come up with some frequency. Interesting.
Favorite town: Cassis -also one of the oldest wine regions in France, if not the oldest. It’s pretty tiny though, with just over 10 producers now, growing mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Mourvèdre.
Chateau Simone is a wonderful classic. Prices have more than caught up lately.
We stumbled upon Simone one day while driving around. What a find! Grouchy old woman put up with us but we were happy we purchased their wine.
I had never heard of them but the wines are great.
I’m partial to Les Villages Perche: Gordes, Rousillion, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes, Oppede le Vieux. In the Luberon, very close to each other and very different at the same time. Near Avignon and Isles Sur La Sorgue that others have mentioned. I’ll be going back this summer.
Can’t comment on Bandol. Sorry.