09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

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Jeremy Holmes
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09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#1 Post by Jeremy Holmes » November 12th, 2012, 10:54 pm

Great night last night where Monday table member Andrew was in charge of putting together some 09 Big Guns so that we could get a handle on this much lauded vintage. The whites were true to form, rich, ripe and textured and the reds were quite ripe with the vintage derived creaminess. The DRC bracket was good but I think many of us yearned for a bit more detail and transparency in the wines. Again Andrew Blake did a ripping job with some Burgundy friendly food.

On arrival the 1997 Salon looked very smart, much better than a bottle Anthony and I shared last year. It had some pure white peach and mineral notes and drank like a good white Burgundy. There was pleasant creaminess in the mouth with lime brulee flavours and a big whip of citrus on the finish. The 1996 Dom Perignon was corked.

A bracket of 5 whites were served blind and we were told there were 4 from the 09 vintage and two Montrachets. If you would allow me to be braggadocios for just a moment I nailed the Montys, if you allow me to be truthful for a moment I think it’s the first option I have got right in a couple of months. The 2008 Fontaine-Gagnard Montrachet Had loads of cola oak on the nose. There were also whiffs of spearmint, coconut and ripe peach. It was explosive and sappy in the mouth with good volume and plenty of mineral to the finish. The 2009 Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet was up front, exotic and a very tasty drink. There were some pineapple aromas coupled with ripe peach and crème brulee. It was rich and fruity in the mouth with good volume and outstanding length. The 2009 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet was just a bit too ripe and candied. There were exotic fruits (think guava and rockmelon) and it was very fruit sweet in the mouth. The acidity never really booted in and there was just a faint suggestion of minerals once the wine was swallowed. The 2009 Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montarchet was pure, rich and powerful. It had ripe peach fruits coupled with some spearmint cream. Despite all of its flesh it still possesses good rocky detail and it finishes with good chalky precision. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet was the wine of the bracket. It was a little reduced and had a big hit of matchstick sulphur on the nose. The wood was toasty and married well with the creamy, dense orchard fruits. It was chewy and layered in the mouth and had good line and excellent underlying minerality. The accompanying West Australian Marron were just undercooked and the sweet rich meat prepared with vanilla married exceptionally well with the white Burgs. There was supposed to be a Sorrel emulsion with it as well but Andrew’s stick blender broke down so we had some sorrel on the side.

The two Rousseau big boys were served side by each (that’s Barossa Deutsch for next to each other) in the first red bracket. I think the table’s general consensus was that the Bèze just had it over the Chambertin at this early juncture. The 2009 Armand Rousseau Chambertin was sweet and floral with rich cherry fruits, good balance and a long fine finish. The 2009 Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze had an engaging waft of ginger spice on the nose coupled with sweet cherry aromas. The dense sweet cherries gathered at this wines heart and it had a little underlying meatiness. It was rich and textured and very long. The 2009 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin polarised the table. It was heavily reduced and quite meaty to start with. Some oak appeared resinous but underneath was a core of cool cherry fruit. It had real depth and power with some freshly ground spice and smoked meat flavours. It was exceptionally long. Andrew noted that Leroy was quite hard to get these days. Our friend and wine importer to the stars (I’ll call him Gary to protect the innocent), imports many great Burgundies into Australia but not Leroy and Gary responded with ‘I’ve never had any troubles getting Leroy, because I’ve never asked for any!’ The 2009 Faiveley Musigny was most peoples wine of the bracket and indeed wine of the night and as a group now we have seen enough superb bottles of this rarity to understand that it is one of the great wines of Burgundy, not just a hard to get collectable. This 09 Had some camphor and aniseed aromas along with cherry and pomegranate fruit. It was beautifully textured in the mouth with great fruit and oak balance. It was lacy yet powerful and really fanned out once swallowed. I suspect the 2010 Comte de Vogue Musigny was a picking error but it was good to see this beautiful wine again. Extremely youthful with real pomegranate and cranberry crunch. There was an engaging white flower scent and the whole package is bright and crackling with energy but with real depth.

6x2009 DRC wines were then placed in random order in front of us. If I look back at my note on the 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton it reads like Corton. Rocky, stony, chewy with some menthol and oak spice. It is an excellent wine and held up well against the rest of its siblings. I however did not pick it as Corton when asked. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux was sweet, creamy and generous. Black cherry fruits are laced with spice and it is long with a dry earthy finish. DRC’s GE often punches above its weight and the 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux continued this trend. It showed some liquorice, dried flowers and sandalwood on the nose. In the mouth it was sweet and creamy but had good rocky detail and the finish was somewhat akin to sucking on a cherry stone. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tache was the class wine of the bracket. It built in the glass and showed aromas and flavours of Hoisin, cherry skins, blood plum, aniseed and earth. In the mouth it was rich and velvety and the finish was very long. It is a good La Tache but perhaps not up there with the very best. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Coni Romanée St.-Vivant had a ripe, slightly roasted coffee note. It certainly built in the glass to show some grated ginger, smoked meats and sweet cherry fruits. It was quite sappy and laden with flora, finishing with good authority. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Richebourg was a little grumpy and shy. There were some ground spices, soy and dark fruits. Under the waves of creaminess is a core of mineral and it has a whip of tart cranberry to the finish. Andrew had prepared three brilliant savoury courses with the reds. A quail dish was excellent and the quail breasts were as plump as I’ve encountered. Lamb with new season broad beans was excellent but the star was a dish of silky pigeon breasts that were sandwiched between truffle infused pecorino and bread and dropped into the most pristine bouillon….one of the best things I’ve eaten this year.

We were given two dessert wines blind and told that one was a 2001 and one was Yquem. When Gary was asked his thoughts he said ‘I think the first wine is Yquem but if its not then the 2nd wine is’. The first wine was the 2001 Château Climens and it was in good form. It had a gorgeous nose of lavender, honey and blossom. In the mouth it was richly textured and heady but cut with acid and in perfect balance. The 1999 Château d’Yquem was crammed with mangoes, rockmelons and apricots. It was rich and layered with cream but cut with grapefruit acidity. It was a lot deeper and longer than the preceding wine and quite classy. An outstanding crème brulee with summer berries was served with the sweeties.

A couple of Ports wrapped up a most enjoyable evening. The 1980 Quinta do Noval ‘Nacional’ Vintage Portwas good but not great. It had some fresh fruit flavours as well as plenty of earthy, savoury traits. The spirit came off a little raw and there was some volatility on the nose. The 1966 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was drinking beautifully. It was sweet and luscious with caramel, chocolate, liquorice, raisins and biscuit notes. The spirit was nice and clean and balance and length of flavour excellent.

Cheers
Jeremy
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#2 Post by JKim » November 12th, 2012, 11:10 pm

Wow, that is a great line-up of 09s. Great notes as always, Jeremy.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#3 Post by paul hanna » November 12th, 2012, 11:22 pm

Great write up again mate. Was another fun night.

Personally, I was pretty disappointed with the '09 DRC's. They certainly didn't look like the wines that had been given glowing reviews from BH (no Zen like Harmony, as Big D. said). Way to much hype on the quality of this vintage IMHO, and last night again proved it for me....

At this point I'd be all over the (much) cheaper '08' DRCs, which to my mind, are far superior wines....

Good to see though the GE once again come tops blind on release, just shading the LT, which is a good rather than great LT for mine.

I also had the Faiveley Musigny as my WOTN, 95+ points with some upside as it ages, this is a very, very good wine. Also was pleasantly surprised at how good the Rousseau Beze looked, but then it does usually tend to show well when young, a charming wine.

The Leroy again was an odd wine, and for the second year running seems to show some shifts in wine making practices, as this didn't look very "Leroy" like at all, my bottom wine of the whole night, and a bit of an expensive exercise in pointlessness to even drink it....blah.

The Climens was good, and given it's high regard, was a bit surprising to see the Yquem easily top it.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#4 Post by Herwig Janssen » November 13th, 2012, 12:17 am

I tasted the DRC's 2009 from barrel and I can assure you they were fabulous wines . Certainly the La Tache . So I assume this is at a difficult stage to taste . ( similarly , a La Tache 2005 we had a few months ago tasted like a cheap Villages ... but I still think/hope it will be great 30 years from now ).
Absolutely great tasting notes !

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#5 Post by A Songeur » November 13th, 2012, 12:37 am

Jeremy,

...and no La Romanee Conti?... Was it a lumpenproletariat gathering? Really going down market these days, we must be in a crisis!...
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#6 Post by paul hanna » November 13th, 2012, 1:15 am

Antione,

Lol, had to google that one...

We used to also do the RC, but really came to realize that it is the one wine that never shows well on release, and this was really a wasted exercise (and a missed great future opportunity), thus we don't do it anymore.

Mugnier Musigny doesn't make the list now either, although I would probably rather see one next year than another Leroy. Liger-Belair La Romanne is another we often taste in this annual review, but we didn't have one this year. The Rousseaus are another no brainer and almost always look good, the Vogue Musigny also always makes an appearance, and again this showed a slight change in style over the last few years to more of a purer, less stern sort of wine....

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#7 Post by Hans Strand » November 13th, 2012, 2:02 am

I tasted the 2009 DRC wines from barrel as well. This in November last year. I found the wines very difficult to taste and for the first time I spitted all wines except the RC. The wines were four square and unbalanced. I suppose the DRC wines were in an awkward state in their elevage. Later the same day I tasted Rousseau and their wines were wonderful, with Chambertin as the king of the cellar. Regarding the Faiveley Musigny I agree, it is an amazing wine. A state of the art of in terms of purity and class.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#8 Post by dcornutt » November 13th, 2012, 3:18 am

Nice job here Jeremy. The same lineup with 2010's would be an interesting exercise. Wishful thinking however.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#9 Post by Roger Nellans » November 13th, 2012, 3:30 am

Great notes as usual Jeremy. Agree with your assessment of the '10 Vogue and the stylistic change. Too bad that the DRC's did not show that we'll. I'm looking forward to barrel tasting the 11's from both in a few weeks. Btw, the pigeon dish sounds 'to die for' good. Compliments to Anthony [cheers.gif]
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#10 Post by Claude Kolm » November 13th, 2012, 5:19 am

Interesting point of view. Having tasted the entire range of 2009 DRCs once from barrel and twice from bottle, I think it is the best young vintage I've ever tasted from the Domaine (which goes back to the 1985 vintage for tasting upon release). And this despite the fact that I'm not a huge fan of 2009s (although I think there are some great ones for the very patient).
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#11 Post by A Songeur » November 13th, 2012, 5:49 am

Pigeon breasts: tonight I am preparing pigeon breast with fresh figs (cut and garnished with Parma ham) "peppered" with coriander and a (reduced) wine sauce with redcurrant jelly... but without DRC (Ich bin unter-Lumpenproletariat...). Accompanied by a pumpkin puree with halved fried girolles mushroom.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#12 Post by Peter Chiu » November 13th, 2012, 6:05 am

We used to also do the RC, but really came to realize that it is the one wine that never shows well on release, and this was really a wasted exercise (and a missed great future opportunity), thus we don't do it anymore.

Agree - very well said : wasted exercise. [cheers.gif]

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#13 Post by Hans Strand » November 13th, 2012, 6:54 am

Hi Jeremy,
How about including Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze "Les Ouvrees Rodin" 2010 next time. You will be amazed by the quality of this wine.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#14 Post by Nick Gangas » November 13th, 2012, 8:56 am

I was considering popping 2009 LT next week but maybe not.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#15 Post by Anthony Hall » November 13th, 2012, 1:12 pm

Hans Strand wrote:Hi Jeremy,
How about including Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze "Les Ouvrees Rodin" 2010 next time. You will be amazed by the quality of this wine.
Thanks for the suggestion Hans. I have one bottle which we will include in next years tasting.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#16 Post by Doug Lee » November 13th, 2012, 1:21 pm

Wow, incredible tasting. Hope the whole thing (with pics?) ends up in Repast some time in the future.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#17 Post by paul hanna » November 13th, 2012, 3:17 pm

Anthony Hall wrote:
Hans Strand wrote:Hi Jeremy,
How about including Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze "Les Ouvrees Rodin" 2010 next time. You will be amazed by the quality of this wine.
Thanks for the suggestion Hans. I have one bottle which we will include in next years tasting.
Yes, this would make a very interesting addition....

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#18 Post by Hans Strand » November 13th, 2012, 5:31 pm

Great! For me it was probably the best wine of all Burgundies when I tasted from barrel last year.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#19 Post by Mike During » November 13th, 2012, 6:50 pm

Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#20 Post by Claude Kolm » November 13th, 2012, 11:44 pm

Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
Not sure what you're referring to Mike, but Aubert is extremely high on the 2009s.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#21 Post by Mike During » November 14th, 2012, 12:04 am

Claude Kolm wrote:
Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
Not sure what you're referring to Mike, but Aubert is extremely high on the 2009s.
Hi Claude, I think it was the interview Antonio Galloni did with Aubert de Villaine, I believe he said the 2009's were more for the longterm. I should run the interview again to be check... Cheers Mike
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#22 Post by Claude Kolm » November 14th, 2012, 12:27 am

Mike During wrote:
Claude Kolm wrote:
Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
Not sure what you're referring to Mike, but Aubert is extremely high on the 2009s.
Hi Claude, I think it was the interview Antonio Galloni did with Aubert de Villaine, I believe he said the 2009's were more for the longterm. I should run the interview again to be check... Cheers Mike
I haven't seen the Galloni interview, Mike, but more structured vintages don't automatically give longer life. Both Aubert and Jacques Lardière compare 2009 to 1959, another vintage that showed less "structure" than some other vintages but where the wines are still going strong.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#23 Post by Mike During » November 14th, 2012, 1:03 am

Hi Claude, just ran the interview again. In summary:
2010 - saved by the long fine Autumn, unusual, it was a great surprise (questions whether it is climate change???)
2009 - kind of vintage one wishes for - quantity, quality, seduction, purity... for aging... like 1959.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#24 Post by paul hanna » November 14th, 2012, 2:43 am

I wouldn't say the '09 were well structured, they were big but not really defined.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#25 Post by paul hanna » November 14th, 2012, 2:47 am

Jeremy Holmes wrote: The 2009 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet was just a bit too ripe and candied. There were exotic fruits (think guava and rockmelon) and it was very fruit sweet in the mouth. The acidity never really booted in and there was just a faint suggestion of minerals once the wine was swallowed.

Cheers
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One point a bit missed here is how bad the Leflaive '09 Batard was. Leflaive seems to do badly in riper years (with both the '03's and '06's being decidedly very average), and this seems to have continued somewhat with the '09's. I really didn't like it, it looked quite ripe and alcoholic, with a decidedly caramel note to it, and would have probably scored this wine around 87pts on the night.

Lots of talk also around the table on how their wines aren't really as good now as they used to be....especially since the change in winemaker.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#26 Post by Roger Nellans » November 14th, 2012, 7:39 am

Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
As an aside, on my visit with Freddy Mugnier last year, he felt that the 09 vintage had more potential in the long haul than the 08....which I found quite interesting and counter to my thinking.
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#27 Post by Hans Strand » November 14th, 2012, 8:17 am

The wine makers believe that, when the fruit of the -09 has resided, they will become great wines. Maybe they are right? For my taste 2010 is the best vintage I have tasted, but maybe -09 will catch up in 10 years time?

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#28 Post by Mike During » November 14th, 2012, 9:34 am

Hans Strand wrote:The wine makers believe that, when the fruit of the -09 has resided, they will become great wines. Maybe they are right? For my taste 2010 is the best vintage I have tasted, but maybe -09 will catch up in 10 years time?
I can see the the discussion going on for decades, certainly of interest to me and I also prefer the 2010's to date. BTW I secured the 2010 Faiveley Musigny (1 bottle for NZ) and Les Ouvrees Rodin - a couple more.. Cheers Mike
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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#29 Post by Peter Chiu » November 14th, 2012, 10:00 am

Roger Nellans wrote:
Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
As an aside, on my visit with Freddy Mugnier last year, he felt that the 09 vintage had more potential in the long haul than the 08....which I found quite interesting and counter to my thinking.

There will always be interesting debate regarding the difference of each vintage of certain wines.Guess it is one of the reason why we are so passionate about them.

That being said...I firmly believe the best way to enjoy them will always be : when to open them - according to your own personal preference. [cheers.gif]


*******Freddy Mugnier - felt that the 09 vintage had more potential in the long haul than the 08....which I found quite interesting and counter to my thinking ******

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#30 Post by paul hanna » November 14th, 2012, 11:02 pm

Roger Nellans wrote:
Mike During wrote:Thanks for the notes. Interesting in that didn't Aubert de Villaine think the DRC 09's have more potential than the 2010's? A more structured vintage....
As an aside, on my visit with Freddy Mugnier last year, he felt that the 09 vintage had more potential in the long haul than the 08....which I found quite interesting and counter to my thinking.
Certainly at the top end, but not even then with every wine or region, I can see that many '08 look like they will be better than their '09 counterparts....but there is no way you can really make a broad generalisation about the two vintages as they are so different.

I would bet though that many of the top end wines '08's live longer and look better with long aging than many similar '09's....DRC included.

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Re: 09's including 7xDRC's, 2 Rousseau Big Boys and Faiveley Moose

#31 Post by Jeremy Holmes » November 15th, 2012, 2:07 am

Doug, I have been banned from taking photos since my last effort at our R.C dinner.

Hans, I just took delivery of some more 10 Faiveleys today but sadly no 'Ouvrees Rodin'. I guess I'll have to drink Anthony's bottle.

Paul, The Leflaive 09 Batard was a bit disspointing as are their 06's but the 10's looked brilliant at the Domaine earlier this year so keep the faith.

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