05 OREGON PINOTS NEAR THE OTHER PORTLAND - Pine Point, Maine (8/18/2012-8/24/2012)
Our annual vacation at my wife’s family’s beach house in Maine is a good opportunity to drink some nice wines. Bottles from our cellar in Vermont are still cool when we arrive and we leave a set of good glasses there for the purpose. With a load of fresh veggies from our garden, a lobster pound within walking distance and an unbeatable ocean view, we are seldom tempted to eat out. I only wrote notes on the reds but of the supporting cast of whites the 2008 Bedrock Caritas was a stand out. While we were focusing on 2005 Oregon Pinot, the 2001 Andrew Will Champoux was clearly WOTW.
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2005 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Wädenswil Clone Shea Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (8/18/2012)
Decanted about an hour. Very little sediment. Medium bright color. Clear rim. The aromatics are more herbal/savory spice than fruit-driven with elements of sassafras, cola nut and oregano with just a hint of black cherry in the background. On the palate, the same herbaceous-ness is evident and there’s not much fruit to fill in the middle. This wine is somewhat firm and tannic. I see why this clone is valued for blending but as a stand-alone it is more academic than pleasurable. Couldn’t hurt to see if a few more years might flesh it out but I would not bet on that. (88 pts.) -
2005 Holloran Pinot Noir Le Pavillion Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills (8/20/2012)
Decanted 2 hours. No sediment. Deeply colored with a crimson-tinged clear rim. Deep savory nose with allspice, cherry skin and a touch of cinnamon. Bright and focused flavors of ripe tart cherries, cranberry and rose hips are full bodied, powerful and still rather primary with some structure in place. The finish is long and glorious. Since first tasted with Bill Holloran in May, 2007, I’ve thought this to be among the very best '05s out there. It could still use some more time and there is a good chance of an uptick or two. Drink 2014-2020.
Vineyard note: The Le Pavillon Vineyard, located in “the Red Hills of Dundee” on classic Jory soil, is 38 years old. It is the upper half of the original Dundee Hills Vineyard planted in 1972 and 1974 by owners John and Sally Bauers. The site contains several blocks of the oldest own-rooted Pinot Noir vines in the Willamette Valley. The vineyard, naturally divided by Worden Hill Road, was sold in 1998. Bill Holloran bought the upper section north of the road and ex-Oregon Governor, Neil Goldschmidt bought the lower section and sold fruit to Patty Green among others. That vineyard has now been resold and renamed Winderlea. Le Pavillon has been farmed biodynamically since 2005. There is some great old vine Riesling on the site as well. (93 pts.)
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2005 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Abbott Claim Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (8/19/2012)
Decanted 2 hours. Very deeply colored–nearly opaque. Clear rim. Tight but complex nose of ripe black cherry accented by sweet spice and heady perfume. Ripe but fairly taut on entry with black and red berry flavors that are harmonious but still rather primary. There’s a nice core of concentrated, liqueur-like fruit that still has some structure with lively acidity and excellent balance. A classic wine from a great vintage. Drink 2014-2018. (93 pts.) -
2001 Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills (8/22/2012)
Decanted 2 hours. Nearly opaque dark color with a very thin clear rim. Gorgeous nose of savory herbs, wild flowers, smoke and exotic spices that is overall complex, savory and very well knit. Plush and velvety palate impression is followed by bright but not at all drying acidity. The flavor profile includes bright plum, deep dark black cherry liqueur, smoked meat with notes of dried herbs and bakers chocolate. Full bodied, powerful and complete, this wine is also elegant and polished. The richly textured finish goes on and on, deftly balancing mature sweet and savory elements. A New World classic and alas my last bottle. If you own any, save it for a very special occasion any time from now through 2025. (95 pts.) -
2005 Cristom Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills (8/24/2012)
Decanted 2 hours. Medium color, thin clear rim. Closely held nose of savory herbs and sweet spice takes some coaxing. There’s some iron and cherry shin in the background, The cherry, cranberry and cola nut flavors are taut and firm. Good acidity and plenty of structure focus this still quite primary wine. This is quite Burgundian in texture and really needs more time in the bottle. 91 points tonight with plenty of upward potential. Drink 2015-2020. (91 pts.)
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