Vintage Bubblies, Bordeaux & Unico.

Last night, the 23rd August 2012, was back at Impressions (Resorts World, Pasig) with some of the Usual Suspects. We were only four that night: Aaron Palileo, Jojo Madrid (a.k.a., “the Stockbroker”, who called for the get-together), Rene Fuentes, & myself. Chef Cyrille Soenen made sure we were well taken care of, as usual…

…and graciously sent us a complimentary platter of Charcuterie…

…with which we started the night’s two vintage champagnes.

2004 Louis Roederer Cristal - My bottle, a gift from Apple & Rocky Villadolid. I knew it is still exceedingly young, but I wanted to get a handle on it and see if I should get some for stocking purposes. Although unsurprisingly tight in the attack and mid-palate despite breathing in a bucket for around 35-45 minutes, then in glass for more (nb: the flutes used for this were very narrow), this bubbly expanded well just past mid-mouth, releasing prominent pâte sucrée and hints of white chocolate and honeysuckle into the primary apple, crunchy pear, vanilla, and emerging brioche. Good potential in this for what I, at this point, perceive to be a luscious, heftier, pastry-laden crowd-pleaser in-the-making.

1998 Dom Pérignon - Jojo’s bottle. Undoubtedly the most advanced 1998 DP I’ve had, and I do admit that I prefer it this way (compared to past, citrus-aggressive bottles). Underlying café crème to its minerally apricots, baked pear, bit of peach, slight caramel and a breath of oxidation, comparatively heftier (especially mid-palate) and more rounded than the above-mentioned bubbly (nb: the flutes for this one were nowhere near as narrow nor high). With these two champagnes we moved on to…

…the amuse bouche…

…and 1st courses of Oscietra Caviar on Crab Meat with Blini (for me)…

…and an order each of Fresh Pamora Farm Egg Topped with Avruga (for Rene and Aaron).

A bubbly toast.

In the meantime, Jojo had decanted his and Aaron’s reds…

…for our main course of Cyrille’s deservedly famous 24-Hour Sous Vide Veal Shank…

…which simply falls off the bone upon being carved tableside.

Voila, with in-season chanterelles, and Imperator carrots.

More for seconds - wiped out. The evening’s reds were:

…and…

First of all, let me just state that every single red that night I greatly enjoyed. We were on a definite roll.

1982 Château Gruaud Larose - Rene’s bottle. I’ve had this at least twice before (that I documented, anyway: here, and here), and it has consistently been one of my favorite 1982 Bordeaux 1855 classed growths, as well as one of the most gracefully (and slowly) ageing ones to boot. This bottle showed more truffle, animal and sanguine notes than the previous ones, but, to me, was all the more complex and captivating for it. The earthy cassis-dominated base was solid and cedary as ever; with black cherry, hint of fig, violets, licorice, underlying warm asphalt, and violets seamlessly woven in. Smoothly muscular. Remarkable harmony and unquestionable balance. Loved it more than ever. Jojo’s and Aaron’s wine of the night.

1990 Vega Sicilia Unico - Jojo’s bottle. Rich, ripe, dense, full-bodied, multi-layered, red-spiced, dark wild cherry, dark plum, molten ripe strawberry over crème de cassis, leather, cedar, violets, licorice, bit of ceps, hints of chocolate and vanilla. Healthy acidity, rigid structure, the rich, velvety fruit to last, big and molten tannins. Superb wine - one that I believe will keep going much longer than any of the night’s others. Stunning. This was my wine of the night.

1996 Château Lynch Bages - Aaron’s bottle. I’ve enjoyed this vintage of Lynch Bages countless times, the last documented one being just under 11 months ago during Jojo’s birthday dinner at Mamou Too!. From the first scents of its bouquet, it was all Pauillac - Spanish cedar-lined, pencil lead shavings-infused earthy dark black currants, whisper of mushrooms, licorice and violets. Slight vanilla. Warming, familiar, and comfortable. Notable backbone, fine tannins, typical 1996 left bank masculine rigidity. Then, as now, this is one of my favorite vintages of Lynch Bages.

We then shared a platter of Impressions’ Dessert Sampler…

…and delectable Mignardises.

My usual double espresso rounded off this evening of fine wine, food, and friends as Cyrille joined us for a glass of the 1996 Lynch Bages. Excellent evening, guys. Many thanks to all for such a wonderful evening vinous fraternity, and, to Cyrille, of course, for yet another memorable meal. Until the next!

that opening picture looks mouth watering, especially with the bubblies that went along with it. wow.

lovely dinner and great set of wines. always great seeing 'pinas in a diff. context. you’ve been a great ambassador.

cheers,

Luis,

As ever, fantastic food, wines, photos and notes! Could I ask a quick favour. I have a colleague in HK who is travelling to Manilla fairly regularly at the moment - what would be the top 5 food/wine restaurants you would recommend for him to try out?

Thanks in advance.

Dan

That server, uh, I mean veal shank, sure looks tasty.

We are going to start importing San Miguel into Puerto Rico so hopefully one day I’ll be able to visit all the wonderful places you write about. Thanks for sharing.

Was there a veal shank in that picture?

LMD, I’ve said it before, you guys know how to live. I think we should all slow down and enjoy life like you all do. It must be warm there, judging by those “sweaty” bottles.

The platter of charcuterie was quite good indeed, Carl. The slightly spicy cuts nicely eased by the bubblies.

Maraming salamat, Ed!

Dan, you probably have noticed, I regularly dine in pretty much the same restaurants:

1. Impressions (3rd Floor, Maxim’s Tower, Resorts World Complex, Pasay City) - the restaurant of the above post, for French-Continental cuisine by Cyrille Soenen;
2. Terry’s 2º Piso (2nd Floor, Building "B, Karrivin Plaza, Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati) - for Spanish cuisine by Juan Carlos de Terry (the country’s only Phd in oenology);
3. Champêtre (Ground floor, Net One Center Bldg., 26th St cor 3rd Ave Fort Bonifacio, Taguig (02) 815-8801 to 02) - For honest, typical French country cuisine by Marc Aubry;
4. Masetto (1st Floor, 114 Valero St., Salcedo Village, Makati) - Continental cuisine with the best wine list in the country by far (Jojo is part owner of this); and,
5. Sala Restaurant (Podium Level, LV Locsin Building 6752 Ayala Avenue corner Makati Avenue) - Continental dining at Colin Mackay’s flagship restaurant.

There are many other good restaurants, such as Tsukiji and Hanakazu for Japanese; and there are many very good Chinese restaurants here as well. Let me know if your colleague is interested in more.

As with most any restaurant, one gets special attention/service if one is a regular/friend of the owner/chef. Of the 5 above, I am both and would gladly put a word in for your colleague.

Dave, Jojo thinks the same way. Most all the servers in Impressions look like her.

Gracias. Let me know if/when you come visit, Carlos.

Thanks, CJ. Yes, everybody should enjoy life as much as possible. The bottles of champagne were kept in ice buckets, hence, the “sweat”. Well, either that or because the lady you refer to was the one handling them.

Best to all,

N

Beautiful post as usual Noel! Glad the '82 Gruaud turned out well, as I have read reports of some bottles with brett. I hope the ones I have will not be so afflicted when I get around to trying one! And I have a few '96 Lynch Bages in the cellar too - just waiting for them to age a bit more.

Yes, wow.

Luis,

Thank you for your very kind response. I will pass these on to my colleague and he may well take you up on your offer!

By the way, if all the servers look like her I can see why the place is called Impressions as it would certainly leave one.

Dan

I like tracking wines as they age to “watch” them develop. As regards brett, I am not adverse to it (within reasonable bounds). Of the 4or 5 times I’ve had the '90 Gruaud Larose, I’ve come across one rather bretty one, but that’s about it. So far, I’ve not encountered that in the '82.

Actually, Jojo was entertaining thoughts of pirating her for his whiskey bar.

My pleasure.

Yes, except for the restaurant manager, all the lady servers there were evidently hand-picked for a certain look.

Best to all,

N

Double WOW!

I wanna come back in my second life as Noel’s son!

Awesome evening, a treat to read and view.

Noel, I am debating opening another '82 by Cordier (Talbot) tonight. Had the '86 Gruard Larose recently. Any recommendation on decant time for that Cordier? Curious how you treated the '82 GL. Thanks.

Ha ha, you’d rather be reincarnated as one of my sons than me? Gee, thanks.

But, seriously, thanks. I’m happy you enjoyed reading and viewing the photos.

Sorry, but I cannot really say about the '82 Talbot. I do recall I had one a while back, but it wasn’t my bottle so I don’t know how or if it was decanted prior to service. This particular '82 GL was not decanted, just poured and let breathe in glass.

Best,

N

Noel,

Sounds like another great night at Impressions. Wonderful wines and Cyrille just continues to impress (pun intended). Definitely the looks of the ladies working there as you can see from the pic below when we were there last year. Can’t say I blame them.

Hi, Clem! You will probably be glad to know she is still at Impressions (she was one of the ladies serving the other night). Jojo was seated beside me and was salivating on to my shoes.

Best,

N

Great report.

I have enjoyed the '82 G Larose and 1996 Lynch Bages previously but not yet had the opportunity to try the 1990 Unico (the 1991 however was a great wine).

I was in Manila last month but unfortunately for only two nights which was taken up in meetings and hardly had any time to eat or drink in any really good places. If I have the opportunity to come to Manila next time I will look up those recommendations.