2006 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (7/7/2012)
there is sweet round giving nose, but with a metallic undercurrent. Supple and deceptively deep with lovely fruit, minerality and spice, but again with this bitterness-metallic- dishwater in the background. There is still good stuff underneath. A little drying and lean on the back end. Still very good, but overall a shame, as what could be there was impressive stuff. 87 its (87 pts.)
Thanks for the note. This is an extremely challenging cru young. My nose might have interpreted your metallic notes as coffee, like dark iron in a hot sun, rather black and roasted; acrid. Sometimes I call that creosote. Does it sound similar? I frequently get that in Clos des Ducs. By dishwater, do you mean perhaps a little sewage, perhaps some rotted cabbage? That is not unheard of of in red Burgundy…
I’ve got a bunch of 07/08 d’Angerville notes written up and will try to post here soon. They’re on CT, if you’re interested. I love this house very, very much.
What Mike said. GMT = gout moisie terreux, and d’Angerville definitely suffered in 2006. Mike, I was selective on Chambolle and Gevrey, selling some but keeping most, but I sold all the Volnay. Sadly, all the Barthod had to go. (I kept Fourrier, Bertheau, Clavelier, and Jadot CSJ. Have you seen any problems among these?)
Thanks for the note. This is an extremely challenging cru young. My nose might have interpreted your metallic notes as coffee, like dark iron in a hot sun, rather black and roasted; acrid. Sometimes I call that creosote. Does it sound similar? I frequently get that in Clos des Ducs. By dishwater, do you mean perhaps a little sewage, perhaps some rotted cabbage? That is not unheard of of in red Burgundy…
I’ve got a bunch of 07/08 d’Angerville notes written up and will try to post here soon. They’re on CT, if you’re interested. I love this house very, very much.
I suspect it is GMT. I have no real experience with wines tainted with this, and was reluctant to call it that, but it was certainly in my mind as a possibility. This is the first of my 06 d’Angerville’s I have popped, and opened it to see if it was affected. (I am still waiting on my 99, 02, and once in a while poaching an 00, 01.) I drink a fair amount of Burg and do not think this is a sign of youth, but a flaw. It’s concerning as I went somewhat long (for me) on d’Angerville in 06. I would never usually drink C d Ducs this young, and would also be interested in the state of the Taillepieds, Champans, etc, as if this is representative, I may sell off the remainder.
A d’Angerville Champans drank in February did not seem affected. Although tight and unyielding, it showed very good raw material. I have not tried the Taillepieds or Ducs yet.
I also have a note on Barthod’s “Les Baudes” from Feb. that indicates a likelihood of GMT/geosmin, but by the third day it had really cleaned up significantly. I’m holding onto my remaining bottles as this wine shows real class and the texture is pure Chambolle silk. Fingers crossed.
Todd, thanks. Seems consistent to my notes last year and BH April 2012 update, I might try the Taillepieds tonight.
Mike de Lange, had the 06 Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Village last night, a stunning wine and very elegant, proving myself wrong about village wines having said they are rarely elegant… not all Gevrey Chambertin seemingly affected… what wines did you have in mind to include Gevrey?
I tasted tainted bottles from Fourrier, IIRC the Chèrbaudes and Chambolle-Musigny village. I seem to remember an iffy Clos St. Jacques as well, but am not sure and I can’t check any more since I sold all my Fourriers early 2011 for insane prices compared what I paid for them. Coincidentally, after highly volatile bottles of 2001 Combe aux Moines and 2000 Champeaux this weekend I am somewhat more confident that it was the right move for me.
I didn’t have a good source for Clavelier, until I was allowed to buy ex-cellar starting with the 2007 vintage. I was moderately succesful in backfilling, but from 2006 I only succeeded in sourcing some Vosne villages, Brûlees and Nuits so no wines from the affected communes and I plan to age them for a little while longer. As far as Bertheau is concerned, a bottle of the villages was off but might have suffered from another problem, but the Charmes I tasted at the same sitting was definitely affected. I haven’t tasted their Amoureuses or blended 1er Cru, by the way. Furthermore, I wouldn’t know about Jadot as I don’t like their house style and there are several other good reasons for me to not buy their wines.
Mike D.,
I very much like the Fourrier wines as well, I just have strong doubts about their aging capabilities. There are several threads about this subject and if you do a search with my name or Kevin Harvey’s, plus “GMT” or Gout Moisie Terreux as search parameters you can read all about it. I’m pretty sure I listed affected wines I tasted in at least one of those threads. I’m not sure whether the G-C VV was affected, but there were several affected wines despite Fourrier being one of the first vignerons to spot the problem by using UV lamps.
All,
Yes, the whole d’Angerville line-up is affected to varying degrees, including the Taillepieds. However, since there seems to be considerable variance in sensitivity to GMT amongst tasters you’ll read different reports. I have read rave reviews about the Champans for instance, while to me several bottles varied from totally undrinkable (think dirty drain) to somewhat funky. The problem may also vary with the state of development of the particular bottle. By the way, I seem to remember that some wines from Lafarge and Voillot also showed the 2006 funk.
Much to my chagrin -it ruined the vertical I had going since 2004- I auctioned off my entire allocation of Barthod 2006, after bottles of the village, Cras and Fuées were all showing GMT. I never buy the Baudes.
Does anyone know if Morey was affected by the GMT in 2006? I asked this in a thread a few weeks back and didn’t get any replies. I understand that Nuits and Vosne are (generally) clean, but Morey is smack in the middle of the affected region. Still, you don’t hear folks complain about affected bottles from that village.
The only wine I’ve had from Morey is '06 Clos des Lambrays, and I detected nothing to cause concern. However, I tasted the wine rather early, and I’m not sure whether GMT showed up (in affected bottles) right away after bottling, or if it took a while to become apparent.
Just drank an '06 Taillepieds last night and it was very odd … had a Vitamin B nose and finished with a short dry mildewy aftertaste. I guess this is GDT though honestly I don’t have enough experience to know if this is the flaw or not.
Mike, that is a troublesome report. I bought quite lightly in 2006, tasted some wines immediately upon arrival (but I’m not confident those tastings are reliable today regarding GMT) and for the most part have not tasted any since 2009. I have tasted Fourrier Les Gruenchers recently, and it is clean IMO. I have CSJ and Griottes-Chambertin but not tasted. And Jadot CSJ was very beautiful and free of GMT last year.
I too sold my Barthod after Cras and Veroilles were both skunked up when tasted. And I sold my Roumier without tasting any, as the prices offered were very high and there are 3rd party reports of GMT issues with Roumier. So I bailed on those. As for Bruno Clavelier, the Combe d’Orveaux and Beaux Monts were lovely in 2009, and I guess I should open another of the Combe d’Orveaux soon to get a more recent look just for peace of mind.
As for Francois Bertheau, I only got 2 bottles of each wine, so I have been reluctant to pop them open early. I tasted a villages upon arrival, and it was corked, so I opened the other bottle, which I thought was free of any taint. Kevin Harvey has reported the Amoureuses is free of GMT. I had not heard the Charmes is problematic until your post, so I’m disappointed to read that. I guess I’ll fetch a few Bertheau bottles from my storage to take a test drive. And maybe another Clos des Lambrays too… have you tasted that?