TN: 2006 Domaine de Chevalier (France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan)

• 2006 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/19/2012)
  Huge potential, Granted this is already quite nice and a clear upgrade over the highly rated '05 I tasted recently. This is soooo sexy, old world bordeaux meets some new world flair. Gorgeous nose of minced mushrooms dipped in cherries, tarragon and spice box and moderate oak. On the palate gorgeous tannins, like lightly dipped velvety vanilla cherries gliding over your tongue finishing with truffle notes. The fruit is quite ripe here though thats not usually what I require in my bordeaux. Ok, now for the downside…too much oak!!! Damn u oak…but when this integrates we will be in for a real treat! (92 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Thanks for this note, Marc. I bought 3 of these a few months back when K&L had them on sale at what I considered a pretty good price. I’m surprised you like this more than the '05, let alone “clearly” prefer it. I haven’t had this '06, but was very impressed with the '05. On the whole, your note makes this wine sound delicious, although your oak warning makes me a bit wary — that said, thank you for pointing that out - I will be a bit more patient with them than I otherwise would have been. Do you have any more you plan on cycling through in the years that follow? Ideally, I’ll just watch your notes on this wine and hold-off on mine 'till I see a note from you that indicates the oak has receded to acceptable levels.

So last night I invite you over for a mature Bdx and your response is, pop a young oak bomb all by yourself?!?!

Yea, I’m with Brian, the heavy oak note concerns me. I reiterate my earlier offer to split that case of 2001 Domaine de Chevalier with me. A great buy.

2006 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/12/2022)
– decanted 1 hour before initial taste –
– tasted non-blind over 3 hours –

NOSE: cocoa powder; high-toned red-fruited aspect; red licorice; medium+ expressiveness; there seems to be an interesting tug of war going on with the Cabernet and Merlot here.

BODY: medium-light to medium bodied; garnet color with slight bricking throughout; color is of medium-deep to medium depth.

TASTE: earthy, and slightly bitter; some noticeable oak, but just barely not too much; tiny hint of aged Bdx funk; tiny little pyrazine hit; juicy currants. If there were just a little less oak here, I think this would be stupendous, and maybe more cellar time accomplishes that, although it feels like a coin flip to me. Drink Now or continue to Hold. Last bottle around 2030.

50, 5, 13, 16, 8 = (92 pts.)

I had the 2010 rouge a while ago…and it was best on day 3…definitely takes some time for the modern ones to get all the elements balanced out.

Question: should we expect a “sexy” 15 year-old wine from mid-tier chateau/domaine (by Bordeaux standards) in a mid-weight vintage to further integrate oaky flavors and scents?

I really don’t know, but I’m skeptical (I own some of this, so I’ll find out).

I’m experienced in waiting for Bordeaux to integrate tannins, but not new oak.

Perfect question. I take these things on a case-by-case basis. That said, do I “expect” further integration here? No. Do I expect the oak will not further integrate? No. Honestly, I have no clue on this one — it feels like a coin flip. I have one of three bottles remaining, so I’ll do my best to find out. At a bare minimum, it will be nice to enjoy this wine with more tertiary character than it currently has.

I had a 98 Pessac tonight, and even though I didn’t decant, I think it was better after being open a couple hours. Maybe decant the next 06 Dom. de C a little longer? Not sure if that will really help with overoakiness/underfruited, but worth a try.

I know the estate has her fans, but I’ve never been as impressed as the kommentariat by either rouge/blanc here. Maybe I’m just projecting too much expectations, based on its rising prices.

I had the 10 recently as well and was impressed…it is certainly a modern/polished style but too me it wasn’t too disjointed. I felt like 10 years down the road this wine will be in a really nice spot, and for the price I paid at auction was a great value. Felt like 14 was drinking really well early a couple years ago but haven’t revisited since. I’m not sure how much “value” there is in current vintages but I’ll continue to seek out back vintages if they remain cheap.

I haven’t had a wow-moment with the blanc like many people on here. But if you ever get a chance to get the second wine “Esprit de Chevalier” blanc that is really nice for the price.

Love l Esprit blanc 2018.
Great value.

I had a bottle of 2006 over the weekend. It was an odd experience!

Quite winsome notes of dark cherry, blackcurrant and bilberry on the nose, perhaps some redcurrant in the background - so a good start. My first sip was a real surprise as I was expecting something along the same lines as the 04, but not at all - very fresh, crisp flavours going from dark cherry to blackcurrant, quite acidic and light on its feet. After a while, the wine grew in richness in the middle section, with some high-pitched notes of blueberry, and the initially rather clipped finish showed the earthy notes, and finally the oak that Brian describes. By the second evening, the rich sensations had increased and towards the end, there was a hint of kirsch on the finish. In the end, I didn’t find the syrupy mess I feared, but it was all a little shrill and hoity-toity.

So altogether quite weird - I didn’t decant - if I had, I suspect my impressions would have been closer to Brian’s. At first, I rather liked it - having had a rather lush 04 a few months back, the crisp freshness came as a welcome relief, and I did enjoy the cool, almost Loire-ish elegance. But although the stated alcohol level is 13°, it is quite high octane stuff, very upfront and top of the palate. There’s a lack of breadth and softness, which I noticed last night when finishing it with the remains of a disappointing Lafon-Rochet 2006. In comparison, the latter actually tasted softer and rounder than the Chevalier. The oak didn’t really bother me - I noticed it but I didn’t find it obtrusive. What I disliked more was the kirsch on the finish last night.

I can’t see the Chevalier 06 going the same way as the 2004, but like Brian, I’m not sure it will improve much either. I have one bottle left which I will wait a few more years for, keeping my fingers crossed.

I think the problem with Chevalier is that since the arrival of Derenoncourt, from I believe the 03 vintage onwards, it simply isn’t the same as before. Some like the change, others don’t.

Thank you for your thoughtful comments, Julian.

Considering DDC is far above mid-tier in terms of dirt, and the lipstick is a consequence of the destruction of DDC, not to mince words, the answer is it will never be what it should be.

The changes started gingerly in 2001, laid off and tempered somewhat by the lightness of the 2002 vintage leading to taking a more cautious approach to the expected changes allegedly for the better, leading to full blown nightmare by 2003-05.

One of the great estates of Bordeaux ruined by the heavy hand of unnecessary modernization.

JC, you’re preaching to the choir as far as my taste buds are concerned. I haven’t had enough DDC between 88-04 to really have any idea when the style change started — but change it did, based on the 04-09 — but a learned colleague of ours marks the end with the 1990 vintage.

I had the 2006 earlier this week. My impressions were similar to others here, although I did not find there to be too much oak. The highlight was the elevated acidity, which provided some vibrancy to the wine. Wine was great from the get go with a red fruit profile that turned darker with more heft over 90 minutes. I actually think this will age quite elegantly with nice balance and plenty of structure.