TNs: Fonterutoli, Melini, Strozzi.

Ciao Berserkers,

  1. 1998 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico.

While rooting around in my stash of wine I keep in my brother’s perfect passive cellar in CT at Xmas, I ran across this bottle that I had forgotten about. I cracked it last week when my ITB friend came over for dinner. I had no idea what to expect, a 13 year old CC, not even a Riserva, who knows what it will show? Surprisingly, the color was still a very rich, deep scarlet red, not showing much aging effects. On the nose, hey, this thing has still got it, spicy black cherry fruit, some earthiness, really not much different from the bottles I had consumed back in the day when I bought it. Nice palate, good intensity of dark fruits, spice, nice acidity, no tannin at all, easy finish, fine with the dinner, which was some fresh turkey thighs simmered in a light tomato sauce with linguine. More than I expected, although I do not think the extra age added anything to the wine. Grade: solid B.

  1. 2006 Melini, Chianti Classico Riserva, “La Selvanella”. $22 in New Joisey.

Picked this up at Xmas time before heading up to CT. I have always liked this cru wine from Melini but had not tasted one for many vintages, maybe since 93 or 95 (?). I am happy to report this was a delicious Chianti, and I really enjoyed drinking it even if I think it would be better to lay it down for another 3 to 5 years or so. The back label implies it is 100% Sangiovese Grosso and spends 30 months in oak casks, but does not say what size, what type, new or not… Anyway, whatever they did, I liked it. The color is a beautiful, deep blood red. The nose is very pretty, with Tuscan dust, spicy black cherry/blackberry/plummy fruit, a touch of tobacco. Still primary. On the palate it is fresh and bright, lovely spicy cherry fruit, maybe a hint of vanilla, juicy acidity, light tannins. This was fine with a hen I simmered very slowly for about 4 hours, but I think it would be a better friend to some grilled meat, or a roast. You can drink it now but if I had more I would let it rest until it’s tenth birthday. Grade: B+ now, potential for A- or more later.

  1. 1997 Guicciardini Strozzi, “Sodole”. Rosso Toscano IGT.

Had this just a few days before Christmas and am finally getting around to a TN. If I had known how young this was I would never have even considered opening it, and unfortunately it was my one and only bottle. I first was introduced to “Sodole” with their fabulous 1985 vintage. It is a very dark red/blue black, as if it had just been bottled. It is very reticent on the nose at this point, quite primary, deep black cherry/blackberry/black currant fruit, spice, earth, black licorice, young. Same on the palate, rich fruit, spice, deep, young, a touch of vanilla, nice roundness, a sense of depth and great things to come, grippy finish, medium tannins. A superb Super Tuscan, it just needs a lot more time. Cries out for a steak. Grade: B+/A- now, potential for A with further aging.

Nice to see your note on the Selvanella. I haven’t had one since the '01, but really liked them - esp. the '00, which was outstanding, despite the generally poor vintage. Will have to pick up some of the '06 and let them sleep.

Hi Andrew,

I think you will be pleased with it. I remember the 88 and 90 as being especially good. dc.