21 June 2007, at Château Smith Haut Lafitte: Pre-dinner drinks at the Fête de La Fleur were most all the 2004s from Pessac-Léognan. I was not able to taste even half the wines there as I was already palate-weary from several days of tasting
Carbonnieux Rouge - Reticent but typical, if not particularly exciting, nose of/flavors of smokey cedar, cassis and sweetish red cherry with hints of earthiness and tar to the back. At this point, its flavors are better knit and “coming together” than many others at the tasting.
Assesment: I’d gladly accept a glass if offered, but would not buy it.
Les Carmes Haut Brion - Nose also reticent but decidedly more elegant than the Carbonnieux; flavors purer and better focused, with hints of gravel, wood and sweetish tobacco mid-mouth and to the back. Nice enough.
Assessment: I’d pay $30-35 for this, but not more, and only if readily available. I wouldn’t take pains to seek it out.
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge - Reluctant nose; with coaxing yields faintly herbaceous, cedar, camphor, cherry notes. Nice warm flavors, but disjointed at this point - just trying to come together now. I’d think this has better ageing potential than the previous 2 wines mentioned. Probably will start drinking well in 7-8 years from now.
Assessment: I will likely buy some of this now just to see how it ages and would be willing to pay up to $45 per bottle.
de Fieuzal - I made sure to try this since I went through a couple of bottles of their '96 on the 9th June and thought them very good for their price. This '04 was likely the most open, approachable, ripest, jammiest wine with the sweetest black/red cherry I tried the entire evening. Well extracted. Too ripe and jammy for my taste. A bit low on acid. I doubt this will age gracefully for more than 7 years.
Assessment: I’d accept a glass if offered, but would not buy it.
La Mission Haut Brion - I’d say this one had the best over-all balance and finesse of the wines tasted. Sleek. A bit more linear and feminine than other La Missions I’ve tried, but, then, I’ve never tried one even nearly this young before.
Assessment: I’d probably buy just a few bottles for academic purposes and start opening 7-9 years from now and onwards. I’d be willing to pay over $100 per, but not much over that.
Haut-Bailly - Comparatively more open, heavier, riper and more extracted than the La Mission HB. Nice earthy feel to it though. I think the wines of Haut-Bailly are generally of good QPR.
Assessment: I’d pay up to $55 per for this.
Pape Clement - Alluring earthy, cassis, black cherry, sweet cedar nose. Nice focus, balance and finesse. Some pure red cherry and minerals to the back and through the finish. Very good, albeit noticably more “internationally styled” than those from the '80s. Will not age as long as the La Mission, and maybe even the Haut-Bailly - but, then, again, I don’t really think anyone buys '04s for extended cellaring. Will most likely be drinking sooner than both.
Assessment: I’d pay up to $75 per for this.
Smith Haut Lafitte - Not as rich or heavy handed with wood as the other Smith Haut Lafittes I’ve tried ('96, '97, '98, '03 and '04); and better for it, in my opinion. Purer and more finesse than usual.
Assessment: Still not a favored wine, I’d pay $35-37 at most for it.
Those were all I was able to taste before dinner. Since we arrived a bit late for cocktails, they had already run out of the Haut Brion. Classic case of: If you snooze…