A Tasting of Wines of Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou
Fabio Piccolo Fiore Ristorante, NYC
November 10, 2011
It was lot of good fun with great company when 7 Bordeaux geeks got together to revisit the not-so glitzy, but definitely not lacking in class and elegance, wines from this 2nd Growth estate in Saint-Julien. Thanks to Dale for getting this dinner rolling with his effort. Unfortunately we missed a regular attendee due to car troubles, as well as the 1995 vintage. We also missed Matt, the original organizer, who’s moved to NZ.
2007 Dom. Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Vergers” 1er
An excellent wine to gather around with. Ripe, but high in lemon acidity, and long lingering tasty finish. Apples and minerals. A good wine to remember and toast Matt‘s birthday with. A-
1970 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
This was my WOTN. Fresh-looking, Bordeaux red, with plenty of leather and cigar in its sexy bouquet. Specks of pepper amidst ripe and plump core of red fruit. This had Saint-Julien stamped all over it in a truly elegant manner. A
1983 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
A throwback in style, but was a little harsh with a touch more of green vegetable. Came across as less ripe than the others. Moderate length. B
1998 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
Another wine that was quite lean on the fruit and with lower level of acidity. But, this one was well structured and was pleasing without over-compensating for in any of its other components. Understated elegance. B+
1996 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
Tightest among the wines this evening. Big and tannic at first pour. I’ve re-poured until the end of the dinner and was relieved as it showed a little more complexity, a lot of power and hinted of good things to come with proper aging. My remaining bottles will stay in offsite for many, many years. B+
1982 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
Showing complex tertiary notes with leather, tobacco and minerals. A smooth, medium-bodied, classy Bordeaux. More feminine than any of the other bottles. That slight vegetal note that I seem to pick up at every bottle tonight and which imho completes the wines, was present. Great with my veal chop. A-
2000 La Croix de Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
A last-minute addition as the 1st wine bottle from 1966 was deemed dead upon un-corking. Lean and lighter in texture than any of the reds tonight. This 2nd wine from the estate still showed that general vintage 2000 taste to it with its ripeness and good balance. A nice claret, but not in the same league as the other reds that we had tonight. B
2000 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien
I had to ask how a long this wine was decanted for (and it was for a good portion of the day just before our dinner). This was showing very well, with layers of ripe black and blue fruit. Full-bodied and muscular, this was a well-made wine representing a stellar vintage. A-
1988 Ch. Mayne des Carmes, Sauternes
The 2nd wine from Rieussec. This was a light sweet wine that was simple and more refreshing than anything else. Reminded me more of a sweet Loire or German. I thought it delivered by complementing, without distracting from, the night’s featured wines from Ducru Beaucaillou. B
Overall assessment: a very good showing by one of the region’s estate that doesn’t seem to draw, nor need, the attention that its more talked-about neighbors appear to get a decent amount of. It definitely deserves all the “quiet” respect that it gets by being consistent with its classy and understated style.