Well, that has to be the winner for greatest discrepancy in travel time. Time to restaurant, one hour 40 minutes. Time back from restaurant? 23 minutes.
I thank very deeply Kevin Foley for organizing our get-together and everyone for their concern while I fought my way in through traffic. We had a very fine evening here. Bibou is run by husband-and-wife team of the very engaging and talented Pierre and the adorably delightful and insouciant Charlotte. We went with a 7 course tasting menu which was, other than some slightly overdone (and still very tasty) wood pigeon, simply excellent. In particular, the bone marrow dish was extremely yum and the foie gras creme brulee…that was just eeee-villl. The fontaine dessert was also scrumptious, as was the blood sausage dish with potato gratin topping.
It was great to see Dave Kaplan and Dave Kehler again and to meet many new friends. The wines:
2005 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Silex
I missed the champagne, so one of the others will have to let you know about that. They saved a little bit of this for me. Dave K. is a good friend to keep my Dagueneau addiction in check. This really is tropical, for them, a reflection of the vintage, lime but with dabs of melon and citrus and kiwi. This still has the grip and steely demeanour at the sides, but sweet pink grapefruit supreme. little licks of lemon at the back. It is somewhat less incisive and even muscular than these usually are, but still plenty zippy and has requisite interest.
1989 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape
Eric explains that the vineyard is next to Rayas. Just a tiny swatch of sandalwood, but the mains are raspberry, some earth and some rhubarb. Oh…just so pretty, I tell you. Melts in your mouth with not oversweet, but sweet strawberry and raspberry. This has a floating delicacy that is so nice. It is a reaffirmation for me that, of all grenache-based wines, I am going to enjoy older CdP as a rule. Probably #3 for WOTN.
2007 Font de Michel Elegance de Jeanne
Rob explains it’s 100 year old vine parcel on le Crau. It is also 100% grenache. Whee—strawberry jam, plum sauce, cinnamon and molasses bouquet. Palate is thick and rich, it is too sweet and syrupy for me, but in its style, it is restrained and no evidence of heat at all, despite a 16% + rating. It does tamp down with time in the glass, giving some hope for ageability. I can admire it without liking it much, but that’s me and grenache, in part.
1990 Chateau Rieussec
Dave K. kindly contributed this, as we had the foie dish in the middle of our meal. I got some curious looks and honks of incredulity as I proclaimed my disavowal for having ever had the revelicious experience with foie and Sauternes. And nothing different this time. That said, this is a brilliant bottle of wine. From a full, amazing scents of buttertart and apricot. And to taste, it is complete and multidimensional, with a real spice and almost hot and sour mini-kick at the back, while giving so much at the front and midpalate. It may hold, but I don’t think it’ll be any better than it is tonight, with pure and fresh apricot and pear. It is easily the brightest 1990 I’ve had and tremendously enjoyable. WOTN.
1998 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
Probably unfair to have this after, but there is still-just-that touch of peanut and smoke that many Leflaives present. No flint though. It still catches at the tastebuds, some good lemon, a little chalk maybe and unripe apple. Placid and quiet, but at the same time a subdued elegance. Certainly not over the hill at all. Good wine.
1999 Bouchard Pere et Fils Pommard 1er cru Les Rugiens
Already more open than my last bottle 2 years ago. This has more expressive earth, chestnut and dark cherry on the bouquet. This, on the tongue, is still awfully strict and controlled, with tremendous acids and tannins, but the fruit is coming out of hiding…slowly…black raspberry and secondaries of strawberry and crabapple. We all agree that I am to leave my next of this set for at least 5 years. On promise as much as taste tonight, #2 WOTN.
2002 Chapoutier Le Pavillon Hermitage
An interesting buttered green beans hit recedes to leave plenty of leather/horsey and wood varnish to go with a little strawberry. This is better than not bad, it has a little ripeness, and while not any secondary levels, is engaging and an easy enough drinker with red berry fruit and some red plum. OK
Again, lots of thanks to everyone for coming out. I’d love to come back to Bibou again.
A bientot, j’espere
Mike
