A short weekend in Willamette Valley

A quick recap of a visit last weekend, without detailed tasting notes.

Anderson Family.
The only reference to this winery I could find on this forum using the search function called it “off the radar”. No formal tasting room here. They put up folding tables in the garage and sandwich boards on Red Hills Rd., just up from Hwy 240. It’s a beautiful and steep hillside vineyard, with a view of Mt. Hood on a good day-not Saturday though.
Cliff and Allison sell grapes to other wineries including Bergstrom, Boedecker and J.K Carriere, but they make plenty fine wine themselves. The whites are crisp and the reds are balanced. The '07 PN has more depth and grip than most I’ve tried, losing none of the aromatics and silky texture that characterize the vintage. I even bought some Chardonnays, the only ones this trip.

Ayres.
Even more basic than Anderson Family. The winery is in their basement. It is also a family project.
I had tasted their wines previously and been impressed with the QPR, and this visit reinforced the impression. The wines are easily as good as many selling for 50% more.
Anyone going down to the WV this weekend would do well to put both these small wineries on their list.

Belle Pente.
I’ve notice that Bell Pente is well known on this board, and deserves the high regard.
The less expensive of the PNs taste anything but cheap, and the Estate wines are worthy of any cellar.

Dominio IV.
They got their start in the Carlton Wine Co-op, and a couple of years ago moved into a larger building in McMinville, near a bunch of other wineries. The vineyard they own is actually near Hood River, and specializes in Syrah. Dominio does a great job with Pinot and Syrah. They make a Viognier closer to a French style than the syrupy over-ripe new world versions, and a dense, dark Tempranillo that is not my favorite.

Patricia Green.
Here we got to taste barrel samples of the 2010s. If people have been calling this the most “Burgundian” year ever, they are probably right. Concentration is high, alcohol low, acidity bracing.
These might be better even than the '08s.
I’ve noticed the wine making at Patty Green has been steadily tightening up over the last 4-5 years.
There are no longer wines that make me wonder “what is going on there?”. The vineyard variations still show up clearly, even more clearly than before, but there is a unity overall.

Shea.
Barrel samples here too. This was a real contrast to Patricia Green. Here all the wines come from the same vineyard, but are made from specific blocks with specific clones. The contrast between them is striking, and all the wine making brilliant. As interesting as this is as an education in clonal variation, I still prefer the blends overall.

Soter.
Amazing hilltop site. We were greeted as usual with a taste of Soter’s sparkling wine, one of America’s best. As good as the old Beacon Hill wines were, I like the new Mineral Springs better. We were told that the new site is much more consistent and easier to work.


Trisaetum.
This was my first visit here, and the first taste of their wine. This is yet another family operation, up the way from Brickhouse, and we met just about everyone involved in the growing and wine makeing. One of the proprietors is an accomplished artist, and the tasting room doubles as a gallery.
The wines are all better than average. The prices are unfortunately also above average, unless you join the club for a substantial discount. More on that later.

Westry.
The notes are arranged alphabetically, but the winery is back in McMinville, near Eyrie, Dominio IV and others. Again, a family affair, with two energetic boys helping with the proceedings by climbing over barrels and stacks of boxes. Much better than average quality, lower than average prices.

Winderlea.
Though a small operation, the modern tasting room perched on a scenic hillside makes a huge contrast to Westry. The wines might be considered more modern as well, meaning polished, but with more apparent oak influence. Interestingly, they have added a top of the line selection from the oldest vines that possesses more elegance and definition, done with less sweetness and vanilla. Too bad it is pricy.

This post is already long, so I can provide more specifics about the individual wines tasted on request.

All the wineries we visited are relatively small, most not widely distributed, and in every case the proprietors hosted. All are great people. Most, maybe all, farm with sustainable practices, or buy from vineyards that do. I don’t recall tasting a single bad wine, and few that were not to my taste. One a few of the wineries differ is in the pricing model. Most of them keep prices low, and rely on word of mouth and loyalty. Shea gives a big discount for futures purchases, and Patricia Green has both reasonable prices and a futures program.
Soter, Trisaetum and Winderlea work on the club model, giving a substantial discount for club members, but requiring minimum club purchases. While the 20% discount brings prices down to a reasonable level, the requirement to buy wines that I don’t want, Chardonnays for instance, keeps me from joining.

Believe it or not, it appears they’ve actually LOWERED their prices from two or three years ago. And, since you didn’t mention oak I assume they’ve dialed that back. The 2006s were 100% NFO.

Nice words about Westrey. David and Amy are two of my favorite people.

Thanks for the overview. I’ll definitely give Anderson Family a visit as I’ve enjoyed the J.K Carriere bottling using their grapes.

I liked the Trisaetum wines, but think they are using the wine to subsidize the art. Made me think of Domaine Serene charging a premium to pay for all the marble.

Robert

What were your standouts of the '10 barrel samples? Did you happen to try the Durant (vineyard)?

We did Ayres and Patty Green as well. Really enjoyed Ayres and speaking with the family. Had a couple that we enjoyed at Patty Green, I agree with you on the Burgundian leanings of the '10 barrel samples. I really enjoyed the Durant bottling and bought some on futures.

We also did Brick House which was a great time. Loved the Cuvee du Tonnlier which was 100% Pommard. Made me want to plant Pommard in the front yard. Fun day.

What are futures of the Durant going for?

I’m not Peter, but just tasted all the 10’s with Jim last weekend. My favorite was the Durante ($35). Cherries, great depth, fantastic balance and length. Outstanding effort. Second favorite was the Etzel. Suprisingly was an elegant style and again great balance and length. As a surprise Jim pulled out two 09’s–Notorious and Mysterious. Both bigger structured wines with significant whole cluster and a bit more new oak. Both these wines need to be put away in the cellar for awhile, especially the Mysterious. On quizzing Jim where he purchased the grapes… he indicated of course it was a ‘mystery’ but did give me a hint…the vineyard starts with “A” and ends with “S”. My lips are sealed beyond that.

Thanks for the info and notes Roger. Looks like I’ll have to hop on the futures train on this one, I don’t think there is much to go around and sounds like a good one for the cellar.

[quote="Roger NellansSecond favorite was the Etzel. Suprisingly was an elegant style and again great balance and length. [/quote]

Not really surprising since it’s part of the PG Estate vineyard as Jim explained a couple of weeks ago, not part of BF’s vineyard.

Since we were mentioned I thought I would chime in to address a couple of things. If this seems too sale-sy then I have no problem with this being removed.

The Durant is $30 on futures. 1978 planting of Pommard and our first year with this site although hardly our first rodeo with Breyman Orchard Rd. fruit. The futures are 25% off the release price of the wine and another 10% off for 12 or more bottles (mixed being included). There are 8 small production wines we are pouring last weekend and this weekend. We were fortunate to get this section of Durant through Marcus Goodfellow (Matello) who was already getting fruit from another section of the site when this block was offered up. We are splitting it with him (well 2/3rds and 1/3rd).

Jim, any idea which Matello bottling(s) for the Durant fruit?

Nice summary Peter. Pricing has always caused me to think twice before trying much Trisaetum. I’ve been told there’re decent wines.

RT

Pretty sure Marcus has not had a strict Durant Vineyard bottling in the past and I don’t know what bottling that fruit has gone into previously. He told me he thought there was a big difference stylistically between what we are sharing and what he has previously received. I don’t know whether he will do a Durant bottling in 2010 or if he did what it would consist of.

You could go to matellowine.com and I bet there would be contact info there if you wanted to follow up with him.

Matello is pretty far under the radar. I became a fan with an 04 Souris, enjoyed the 05s, less so 06 and palates I trust loved the 07 Souris while for some reason it just didn’t quite speak to me. Seems like he does a lot of vyd blends. A&D Hommage, Lazarus, Souris, WV etc. Overall I like the direction. They do seem to be growing. Good opportunity to learn more in July as they’re a presenting winery at IPNC this year.

RT

Hmmm,

The Internet monster ate my reply post yesterday-not sure what happened.

In regards to Trisaetum oak regime, the winemaker told me 50% new.
We talked about how wineries that become known for excessive oak have a hard time shaking that impression, even after they scale back. Of course, if you start at 200%, even a 60% cut can leave plenty of vanilla mocha.

Jim cleared up the question of Durant pricing. It was one of the richest '10s poured, and on the topic, perhaps showing the most oak.
Barrel samples are hard to get an accurate impression from. I find that my favorites change by the time the wine is in the bottle, and again after a few years of age. I think that every one I tasted will be a fine wine, it’s just hard to make a choice.
Jim had opened a few of the '09s in addition to the samples and gave us a pour. All of the wines at the lower end of the pricing tiers, the Bishop Creek, Olenick, and Whistling Ridge were showing beautifully.

P Hickner

Count me in as another fan of the PGC Durant bottling; I can’t put my finger on what made it stand out but it certainly did.

Thanks again, Jim, for staying open past closing to take us through the range and sharing the Mysterious and Notorious as well.

Interesting. Two of us also purchased Durant futures last weekend. Clear standout of the 8 wines tasted at PG.