TN: Sushi and 2002 Vintage Champagnes

SUSHI AND 2002 VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES - Fuji-Ya, Minneapolis (1/5/2011)

Dave McMahon, Craig Vanderah, Leo Sioris, and I met for a mid-week offline at Fuji-Ya in Minneapolis. Inspired by Dave McMahon’s desire to pop one of his newly acquired 2002 Dom Perignons, we decided to try a range of 2002 vintage Champagnes. The restaurant prepared a large custom assortment of mostly excellent sushi, which we gobbled down in one of their private tatami-floored rooms – very fun. The 2002 Dom was spectacular and the unanimous WOTN. Thanks especially to Dave for organizing and for sharing such an awesome bottle.

  • N.V. Launois Pere et Fils Champagne “Cuvée Reserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne
    Tart, with lots of bright citrus and green apple flavors. Crisp, long, and pure. Moderate complexity. Quite nice. (90 pts.)
  • 2002 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne
    Second time tasted – another outstanding showing. Very complex and ripe, with layers of apple, citrus fruits, cream, vanilla, and ginger that build to a yeasty/toasty finish. Bright, mineral-laden, intense, and long. This has plenty of power but also a terrific sense of elegance and class. (92 pts.)
  • 2002 Marguet Père et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne
    Second time tasted. This was really tight and closed. Initially served too warm (my fault), showing straightforward peachy flavors and sharp acidity. As it chilled down, it improved dramatically and resembled a more closed-down version of the bottle I tasted in November (see TN). IMHO, these really need to rest for a couple years. (91 pts.)
  • 2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
    The 2002 Dom is still wide open for business, and this bottle rewarded our infanticide. The deep, dynamic, fascinating nose initially shows flowers and smoke, but turns more fruit- and spice-driven with air. Complex, fresh palate – ginger, anise, toast, and cream, wrapped around a tight core of ripe citrus fruit. So intense, racy, and elegant. Gorgeous, pin-prick bubble mousse. A terrific showing. Unanimous WOTN. (95 pts.)
  • 2002 Jacques Picard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru - France, Champagne
    Enticing, smoky nose that leads to a deep, complex palate of crisp red fruit, honey, and minerals. Long and suavely textured. (92 pts.)

This was a really fun night. Although as much as I liked having our own little room I’d vote for a regualar table next time. At age 55 my 6-2" frame doesn’t bend all that well and didn’t fit under the table. I feel really good at age 55 except when I’m trying to sit on a floor with my knees in my chest. [basic-smile.gif] I agree, I was really pleasantly surprised and impressed by the DOM. It showed way better than a tight austere '96 I had on release. So much so, I tried to buy some the next day at a good price unsuccessfully. Its funny that the blt overflowed when Dave popped the cork and then settled down significantly over time from a carbination / bubbles standpoint. I wouldn’t mind owning any of the wines we had that night though. Steve, thanks for the notes and the company!

I like the Marguet, but always thought Meadow’s 94 points was surprisingly high for any reviewer, let alone him.

Sounds like a fun night, the '02 Dom is really nice, but Craig and Sushi?! [wow.gif]

That was a lot of fun, with good friends, good sushi, and some really nice Champagnes. Glad you guys liked the Dom. Leo caught that the cork was about to pop right as I was taking the capsule off. Fortunately, we only lost about a glass, but as Craig put it, “there goes $20 of your money right onto the table!”. Oh well. I liked the 02 Dom a lot also. It had a great floral nose and was full bodied while still being very elegant. It is obviously in need of a lot of time though. I’d like to pick up one or 2 more if I can find them for the same price I paid for these. My other two memorable wines were Craig’s Blanc de Blancs and Leo’s Blanc de Noirs. And I was glad to see the Marguet show better after it cooled down more, as I have 3 of those myself.

Another winning Champagne tasting at Fuji-Ya.

Clams and mussels were thankfully, not present. I’ll never go there.

We’re slowly making progress with Craig. Next year he’ll be ready for an organ meat and clam-themed offline.

-Steve

I wonder how the 2002 Camille Saves would hold up against the 2002 Dom…

LOL Siggy. But before you start giving Craig too much grief for his eating preferences (albeit, well deserved), we’ll have to get YOU successfully through an oysters on the half shell and Chablis tasting!

I wish Dave hadn’t wasted a pour of the Dom!

Sounds delicious guys. Great look in at the 02’s.

Guilty as charged Dave… With enough Dauvissat, though, I can learn to choke anything down…

First you will need to get him to an oyster tasting; I’ve had no luck there, even with a line up of great Loire wines.

Steve, great post on the champagnes we had that night. I would echo your comments and ratings. For me it was interesting to not the difference in the flavor and nuance profile of the Dom vs the others. It just stood so far above them all though they were all superb. The Marguet definitely started off quite closed but really started to open after 30-45 min. This champagne needs a bit more time in bottle it appears.

Great night of sushi and champagne, next time, perhaps a table would be in order. Us long legged dudes just dont fit under those tables real well.

btw, I had a bottle of the same vintage of the Dom, but the Andy Warhol series, last weekend. They said it was the same champagne as the regular pour we had. It tasted nothing like it and to my tastes, did not come close to the bottle we had that night. Dont have an answer for that but maybe someone else does.

Leo

Leo, welcome to WB! We need more local guys on this board so come back. Not only am I long legged but I’m one of the least limber human beings on the planet. Fun night!

Leo, from what I’ve read about the 02 Dom, there may be some meaningful level of bottle variation. Not sure of the quantity produced but I know it is large by top end cuvée standards.