The reason it is great is written at the bottom of the list
(my translation):
“All of the wines present here were chosen by
your servant in the cellars of my friends the
winegrowers and aged with care in our cave; I can
guarantee you quality and authenticity.”
I was at the Lodge of the Squirrels (l’Auberge
les Ecureuils) in Valcebollere, 5000 feet up in
the French Catalan Pyrenees. The list contains
38 wines (counting all sizes), 25 more or less
local. I might judge a list by what percentage
of the list I want to order. Here it’s close to
100%. Of course I’m biased in that the local
wines are mostly from Roussillon, and I not only
love Roussillon wines, I bought a vineyard
here. Still, for careful choice, quality, value,
age and interest, this list is incredible. All
prices quoted in US$, using EUR = 1.3 as the
exchange rate. First notes on the wines I
tasted, then some other goodies I didn’t get around to.
The first thing I saw and ordered was 2009 Vaquer
‘Cuvee Bernard Vaquer’ Vin de Pays. Vaquer is a
legendary producer who has given up the
Roussillon Appellation for the freedom to do as
they wish with their old vine Carignan and
Grenache. This sells on the list for $26. I
haven’t seen recent ex-cellar export pricing, but
my guess is that American retail pricing would be at least ~$20
if anybody is importing them. This rich, explosively spicy and
mineral purple fruit bomb was redolent of black cherries and
fell in love with the quail. Rated about 89.5, should improve
up to 2.5 points.
We finished the evening with a half bottle of
2001 Chateau Tour St Pierre Saint-Emilion. This
minor wine is from a superb vintage on the left bank,
with ripe plums, a sense of earthiness, excellent balance
and the subtlety that comes only with bottle
age. It is fully mature if you like your
Bordeaux with some vigor remaining. The 375ml
set me back $23. A full bottle would have been
$44. Rated about 91, ready to go.
An afternoon on the terrace: A 500ml 2009 Collioure
Rose from l’Abbe Rous, ‘Cuvee des Peintres’ was
darker and a little richer and softer than I
wanted, just a question of style, no gripe with
the quality, nor with the $18 price tag. Rated about 83.5.
2001 Domaine de Coutelle Vin de Pays ‘Cuvee les
Iris’, $26. Can’t remember if I’ve ever heard
of this Domaine but the owner’s name, Michel
Theron, is vaguely familiar. This impresses as a
Syrah Beast, in bold capitals. Very dark at 9 years
of age, this features some secondary aromas of ripe black
cherries, primary flavors of cherries with some
iron and minerals mixed in, a dense texture,
lively tannins, amazing vigor and youth for a 9
year old Vin de Pays and a long finish with
tannins vying with healthy young ripe fruit for
your palate’s final attention. Stunning for
youth and price. Rated about 90.5.
1990 Delas Freres Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron
- Not a great house in those days but this is a
top bottling from them and was very fine. The
aromas were gorgeous with very ripe black
raspberries, a touch of mineral, a touch of earth
and something almost cedary, not expected but
welcome. This is fully mature, with tannins
softened but not gone, light in body but very
broad and mouthfilling. Not a great Cote Rotie
but a lovely bottle nonetheless, the aromas far
better than the palate. Rated about 88, could
have been a point or two better a few years ago.
Here are some I didn’t try:
A Vin de Pays Cab for $26 doesn’t sound like a
bargain… unless it’s from the excellent Mas
Sauvy… and is from the great and ready 2005 vintage.
2007 Chateau de Calce Cotes du Roussillon is $23.
A 2002 Tautavel is $26, as is a 2002 Guelbenzu
Evo Navarra. 2005 Chateau Montus Madiran is $43.
Outside of the south, there’s some Champagne:
NV Besserat de Bellefon ‘Cuvee des Moines’ for
$65, white or rose. $36 if you want a
375ml. Another option is Lebrun de Neuville Pur
Chardonnay for $60. A flute of the Besserat set
me back $7.80, probably cheaper to buy Chimp here
by the flute. ’90 Belle Epoque is $113.
From the Rhone, a 1990 Delas Hermitage ‘Les
Grands Chemins’ is $88. A bottle of ’05
Chateauneuf ‘Cles d’Or’ is $38. There is a
Burgundy… one. I’ve had ‘03s from Jessiaume and
I know he did very well in the heat. His
Santenay Gravieres should be excellent for $48, but I had other
fish to fry.
Dan Kravitz
Swillmaster (itb)
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