I wanted to try some 06 Volnays so I popped open the two I had handy. Ultimately I clearly prefer the d’Angerville of the two wines below. I think the Bouchard is a good wine, but at least at this stage of evolution, the oak gets to me (and becomes tiresome the more of it I drink) and it’s just not as pure or pretty as the d’Angerville. Current market prices are comparable at just under $50, FWIW. I am sure that a good number of folks would have different preferences if served these two wines blind, it’s just a matter of taste.
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (4/1/2009)
Opened and tracked over 8+ hours. Initially the nose shows a healthy dose of toasty (almost ashy) oak and sweet vanilla, though with time this recedes a good bit and the fruit and minerality come out to play, though the oak remains present for sure. Red and black fruits, vanilla, smokey / borderline ashy oak, rainwater, minerality and some asian spice on the nose. On the palate this is quite concentrated with a lot of ripe fruit and spice but remains effortless except for the notable oak again showing with a creamy sweetness. Some drying wood tannin on the finish with macerated cherries and cocoa powder. Track records and better palates than I possess seem to indicate that the oak should integrate well on this wine.
2006 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (4/1/2009)
Opened and tracked over 8+ hours. Singing from the get go but time brings out more and more aromatic intensity and integration. Quite giving on the nose with classic notes of sweet silky minerals, dust and rainwater, red cherry, roses and violets. Very pretty. Vivacious on the palate with taught fruit, moderate tannin and great lift. Lengthy finish of cherry skin, rainwater and minerals. Sneaky length and sneaky tannin on the finish. If this is any indication, the vineyard designates should be great wines and great values at the $50-$70 that they can be found at with some hunting.
Posted from CellarTracker